Replies

1. 
   tom77 | Feb 21, 2007 06:29am | #1

   That is like asking what is the best car?  You will get a lot of opinions.   I can only tell what I choose to use, because I don't have a spray booth to handle volatile solvents.  So, I brush on varnish (Varathane 900 gloss), build thickness with several coats, level the final coat with 600 g silicon carbide paper (wet), and rub out to the desired sheen.  (There are lots of FWW articles on that process)

   I use this finish because it is durable, produces a nice looking finish, and it fits within my equipment and facilities.  There are other good choices such as shellac, water based lacquers, and solvent based lacquer.  You might check out one of the finishing books from Bob Flexner, Jeff Jewitt, or Michael Dresdner.

   Good luck, Tom.

2. 
   user-83153 | Feb 21, 2007 07:26am | #2

   All finishes have pros & cons. Choosing the "best " finish is dependant on many variables, as it is a process of which pros to trade for which cons.

     If you are talking about a specific project you have to consider... what wood is it, who will be using it, what type of look do you want(e.g. a hand rubbed "in the wood" look, a high gloss, something in between), among other things. If you are looking for advice on a specific project tell us what it is and maybe we can help.

               Rob

3. 
   uncleSteve | Feb 21, 2007 07:14pm | #3

   When I think kitchen table I think a lot of ware and spills. First there is no "bullet proof" finish. The reactive finishes or catalyzed finishes offer a tuff hard surface. The finish is hard so it offers good ware resistance and good for spills also. The draw back is they are difficult to repair and require spray equipment. For most home woodworkers or weekend warriors I would recommend a poly finish. Good ware and spill resistance, can be brushed on and readily available. To help hide or minimize the every day ware and tare use a low sheen. The higher the sheen the more any defect will be visible to the eye. Steve Nearman Fredericksburg, VA View Image The Master's Touch Furniture Restoration Service Quality restorations and repairs for over 35 years! (540) 371-5566 http://FurnitureRepair.net/

1. 
   Kevin | Feb 21, 2007 09:45pm | #4

   To help hide or minimize the every day ware and tare use a low sheen. The higher the sheen the more any defect will be visible to the eye.

   True enough. Although there is a trade-off involved. The lower the sheen the greater the likelihood of getting shiny spots and streaks from minor abrasion. And that for the same exact reason that it is possible to buff or rub a finish to a higher sheen.

4. 
   terrylee86 | Feb 22, 2007 05:25am | #5

   The other posts have given you the answer.  The question you ask depends on your skill level and equipment.  If you have spray equipment and the skill level the best finish is pre-cat lacquer ( I use Mohawk), but it has it's drawbacks.  If you are worried about fumes I like the Fabulon water based gym finishes ( real hard for water-based), but that raises the grain.  Poly dries slowly a gets a lot of nits in most enviornments ( lots of sanding) same for a good varnish ( Varithane ). So I guess you have to take your trade-offs when it comes to finishing.  All your commercial furiture uses catalyzed lacquers (pre or post) it is the fastest,  gives the best finish and is very hard. but you have to spray it.

   Terry