Hey guys and gals.
I am starting my first attempt at finish level woodworking. I am a metal worker by trade. Starting with aviation maintenance in the Navy, and moving to industrial construction and maintenance after. My first project is a new his and hers computer desk.
Long story short on the source of the flooring. The maple flooring is from a local skating rink that was torn down after a flood. My wife and I met there. So, there is a bit of sentimental value in this flooring.
On to the meat and potatoes of this thread. Getting the layout and such for the boards is not the hard part. But, these boards are probably 60+ years old. They have some bend and twist. After they were salvaged, the tongue and grooves were remilled. So, those fit fairly tight. I read on one website that when making a slab from tongue and groove flooring, one should not glue that joint, but attach it to another piece underneath such as hardboard or plywood. Edge glueing the T&G joints will cause cracking. Is there truth to this?
Also, for essentially an 8-foot long panel, what would you guys consider the minimum number of clamps? I know that you can’t have too many clamps. Just trying to determine if I can do it at home without spending more money on clamps, or if I need to head to the maker space to use some of theirs. The boards are a close to 1 3/4″ wide on the top face.
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I have found that the tongues and grooves on flooring are a sloppy fit. They really aren't made to glue up a tabletop. Do they fit tight when dry assembled? If they do, you might be good as-is.
You might consider ripping off the tongues and grooves, and then gluing up. They would be pretty narrow boards though. Or make a subtle from pine or plywood, and nail the maple flooring to that as if it were a small floor.
If I were gluing up an 8 foot panel, I would want 6 clamps.
With enough clamps, it pulls most of the way together. For this project, I like the somewhat sloppy fit. It still feels like a floor. I do have other projects that ripping the tongue and groove off is going to be required.
Don't forget that your assembled top will move with changes in relative humidity. If you glue, screw, nail, or otherwise attach the top to a substrate you're asking for trouble unless you make an allowance for the top to expand and contract freely.
Jkatzowitz,
So, what you are saying is I should be ok with just glueing the boards up with the tongue and groove as it would normally be and be ok? For the glue-up, I am going to do it in 3 sections due to clamp sizes in my garage, then take it to the makerspace to plane and do the final glue up. The planer at the makerspace isn't large enough for the full panel.
This project is going to be a tabletop for a computer desk for the wife and I. We have very different taste in monitor and keyboard preferences. So, it is essentially double-sided. With a 4" difference in elevation, so the two sides are going to be split. I am planning on making 2 cross-cuts at the middle and beveling the cuts at 45° and using that as a connector for the two heights. The overall length is probably going to end up just shy of 8' overall. The computer chassis is going to be sitting on the floor, so the only weight is on the tabletop is going to be 3 monitors at the rear. One for each side and a common monitor in the middle. I was going to make a "header" for the rear for a bit more strength for that weight and possibly a leg in the middle.
Do you guys see a need for me to add a leg in the middle at the front? I want to avoid that if possible.
Thank you for the help here guys.
If you can get them to fit together nicely as is, just go with that. It sounds like you aren't trying to make it like a typical panel glue up where you want to essentially make those glue lines as invisible as possible. Rather if i'm correct you want it to kind of highlight that it used to be a floor. It shouldn't crack as long as you're accounting for movement in that case.
One thing - that maybe i've missed - how thick are the boards now?
As far as the split level top goes, i'd be a bit weary of just splitting that unsupported. At the very minimum you're going to have to reinforce those miters. Even then, at 8 feet across that seems like a long way to go with a change in height right in the middle. I think that would be a recipe for sagging. Even without the split! the more important question here is what is your plan for the base? Trestle style? Apron? Even though you say there isn't much weight going on the top, you're still going to want to account for the pressure you'll put on it with your arms (resting, getting up, etc). Just time in general will sag that sucker down.
I don't know if you'll need a "leg" in the middle but you will definitely need additional support to keep the 8' long top from sagging. If I understand correctly, it will be a 3/4" thick top. with a break in the middle for the 4" elevation change. Even with an apron support I think it'll be problematic. You can probably add a leg support in the center and keep it set back for visual and accessibility considerations. You will still need to accommodate the wood movement when you attach the top to the base/support structure.
Of course without seeing a drawing, it's hard to understand exactly what you're describing.
For the base/support structure, and apron support are probably going to be all the same materials as the top. Mostly to keep the cost down as I already have it. I will see if I can get at least a rough drawing from a screenshot in Fusion360 tonight.
So, I just watched a video on youtube about attaching a tabletop to the base. I think I am going to go with Z clips. I have also decided to put a leg on both sides of the joint that makes the elevation difference. This will be one on each side of the computer tower. Should work fairly decent. I will probably position it about halfway from front to back.
Included a quick and dirty mock up of the table top. I might do something a bit different with the joint. But something to this effect. The reason is the wife is getting a pull out keyboard tray, and I am not, but we both like our keyboard at roughly the same height.
I think what you've got planned should work well. Attaching the leg elements to both sides of the center should give you the support the top will need. Don't be afraid to give the center leg a little style while making sure you won't smack your knees into it.
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