Replies

1. 
   ram | Sep 22, 2005 11:51pm | #1

   I'm not highly experienced but can offer some suggestions that have helped me keep my Powermatic 66 saw square:

   (1) Get a dial indicator with magnetic base. Woodcraft sells them for a reasonable price: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=1666 I got the 1" capacity unit. Then make a sled for your miter slot and mount a piece of ferrous metal to hold the dial indicator's mag base. This will enable you to check your saw's miter slot as square to the blade and to the rip fence.

   Check the FWW on line video for a demo of the idea: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt117.asp

   (2) Optional: get a reference plate, if you're like me and don't quite trust blades to be flat. One such product is MasterPlate. I got one from Woodcraft: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=2017. These are pricier options, I like the MasterPlate (though I wish they could produce one with flatter than .003"). I'm not that impressed with the SuperBar that the same company makes.  I think the simple dial indicator with mag base is better and cheaper.

2. 
   forestgirl | Sep 23, 2005 08:17pm | #2

   Is the Mastercraft a direct-drive saw?  Sounds like it is.  Does it actually have a method for aligning the blade to the miter slots?  The two direct-drive saws I've used didn't seem to have a mechanism for this alignment.

   Sorry, I got interrupted and hit the post button prematurely.  What types of adjustments are available on this saw is what I'm getting at.  More details are needed: does it just burn when you rip, or also when you crosscut?  Burning is usually an indication of misalignment of the fence-to-blade or the blade-to-table alignment, predominantly fence-to-blade (ripping operations).  2.5HP?  Hmmmmmm, probably not.  A standard belt-drive contractor saw is 1.5HP.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

   
   

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   Edited 9/23/2005 1:31 pm ET by forestgirl

3. 
   Crashmo | Sep 24, 2005 09:53am | #3

   I haven't heard said yet, but a good sharp blade can also help the burn problem.  You don't have to spend $100.00, just take what you have to a blade sharpener or woodworking store in your town and about  $15.00 and a few days later will show improvement.

   The alignment thing I've done for years with a good measuring rule/tape and eyes and ears.  It can be intuitive or you can let the gadgets do the job.  Either of them work well.

   Remember, no matter how poor the saw works, you will double its value to you with a good fence system.

4. 
   Knotscott | Sep 24, 2005 02:05pm | #4

   Good alignment and proper blade selection for the task are critical. If the blade can't be aligned to the miter slots, then just align the fence parallel to the blade, and your miter gauge perpendicular to it...even if it means setting your guage to 88 degrees for a 90 degree cut....it's all relative to the blade.

   As was mentioned, make sure your blade(s)are sharp and free from pitch build up. Choose a low tooth count w/an aggressive hook angle for ripping (18-24T, 20 degrees), and a higher tooth count with less hook for crosscutting (40-60T, 5-15 degrees). 7-1/4" blades will work and can save $ on a new blade if money's tight....the downside is blade height, but if you don't need to cut 2" stock you might find a new Freud blade or two for ~ $10 works wonders.

   
   

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   Edited 9/24/2005 7:06 am ET by scotty

1. 
   mustang | Oct 01, 2005 04:54pm | #5

   Thanks again for all the help I will but it to good use.

    

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 01, 2005 07:47pm | #6

   "even if it means setting your guage to 88 degrees for a 90 degree cut....it's all relative to the blade. "  That works (sorta) as long as you aren't bevelling a pieces of wood.  It gets pretty tricky when you tilt the blade (tricky=dangerous).  I know, I've been there.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)