Replies

1. 
   Dustmight | Jun 30, 2005 02:19am | #1

   I had a Freud LU84R011, then a friend bought me a WWII. The LU84 was very good and an excellent value, but the WWII outperformed it on every type of cut. Now that I've used one, I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to buy one or recommend one. I have a another wwing friend who'd been at it for 28 years. He had money set aside to buy a WWII, but with five kids things kept coming up to prevent the purchase...last fall three of us chipped in at the Syracuse WWing Show and bought one for him for $90...he was amazed at how good it was and said it thoroughly outperformed his existing 5 blades that were just sharpened. Freud does make the F410 premium blade that's more comparable to the Forrest, but I haven't tried it.

   http://www.epinions.com/content_147387551364
   http://www.epinions.com/content_145552674436

1. 
   Walker1 | Jun 30, 2005 05:48pm | #2

   Thanks for the feedback,this confirms what I've read about them,but It's better to hear it from someone who owns the equipment than from someone selling it. My minds made up I'm going to Lee Valley topick one up today.                        

1. 
   adastra | Jul 02, 2005 09:42am | #3

   Well, you'll be happy with the WW2.Just wanted to add in case anyone finds this thread doing research that the new Freud thin kerf, LU93 I believe, does a very very good job on solid hardwoods. Pretty good on ply, some fuzzing.I've owned a WW2 and can't say it was twice as good, but it is more than twice the price. In fact I would say the cut quality is so close that its irrelevant. Neither surface would be going straight to finishing but sanding is minimal. Maybe a few strokes with 150.The Freud is a bargain, performance-wise.

2. 
   Walker1 | Jul 06, 2005 08:00pm | #4

   Another question. I know you said you have the craftsmen 222124 which seems more or less equal to my tablesaw,so I'm wondering did you by the thin or full kerf Forrest blade? If you did buy the full kerf how does it peform on your saw?

1. 
   Dustmight | Jul 06, 2005 10:13pm | #5

   My WWII was a gift and it's a TK. The theoretical disadvantage of a TK is blade deflection under pressure. Apparently the better blades are made well enough that deflection has never been an issue with the Forrest, Freud or DeWalt TK's I have. I even have a set of stabilizers that I don't use....I've never noticed an improvement from them. So while full kerf should be fine, and even though your saw should have sufficient power, it will struggle less with a TK. Forrest's site will likely recommend the TK, so I guess I'd lean that way.

1. 
   Walker1 | Jul 07, 2005 01:43am | #6

   Thanks again for sharing your experience. I had my mind made up on the full kerf,but after hearing from you blade deflection isn't an issue with the thin kerf WW II I decided to call back Forrest and they said just as you did,blade deflection isn't an issue. The blade stabilizers are to reduce vibration and blade sing if necessary. Unfortunately I have to wait a month to get the thin kerf from Lee Valley, but it will be worth it having less material waste and less load on the saw.

    

    

    

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2. 
   Marty | Jul 24, 2005 02:06am | #7

   Hi. I am just starting out and I found the LU83 50-tooth combination blade to be pretty good.  Less expensive than the Forrest.  Though I have not checked the WWII myself, it is difficult to believe that the WWII is twice as good.

   Take care,

   Marty

1. 
   Dustmight | Jul 24, 2005 02:36pm | #8

   The LU83 is the TK version of the LU84. The WWII probably isn't "twice" as good, but then again, define twice as good. In my experience, the Forrest did cut cleaner, but mileage can certainly vary for different individuals....my sample size was n of 1! Since the blade is the part of the saw that actually does the cutting, it can be the most important component of the saw system. IMO the Freud is a better value per dollar spent if the cost is an important consideration, but when you calculate the cost of the Forrest relative to the cost of the whole saw system and the number of years of use you'll get, it's a bit easier to digest. As in, the total cost of my saw and blade might be $783 with a WWII vs $740 with an LU84. Either way, I could live with both blades with nary a complaint...