Im new to this forum. I was wondering if anybody know of a past FWW issue that might have an article on building a jig for your table saw that takes the place of your miter gauge? Basically the miter gauge on my saw is just a bit too sloppy for me and some fellas from Wooden Boat Forum sugested building this type of jig. Im wondering if there is an article on it with some good photos etc. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance. Vince
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Replies
Vince,
If your talking about a crosscut sled, there was a video clip on the web site here up until about 2-3 months ago (short term memory loss). If you do a search wither here or google for crosscut sled hopfully that would work.
Vince,
There have been video tips on this web site by Lon Schleining regarding crosscut jig.
To get you started, here is the way to build a basic crosscut sled/jig. There are a few different sled options, such as ones specifically built for miter cuts or dadoes; but the crosscut is the foundation for all of them and will usually get the most use.
The materials you'll need are: 3/4" birch plywood or MDF (I prefer the birch plywood), some wood screws, and some hard wood (maple, cherry, etc...) for the runners and the fences.
First determine the maximum width of the wood you think you'll be cutting in the future. (There's no reason to build a sled the size of a panel saw rack if you don't need to!). Using your table saw, mill a piece of plywood (hint) to size for the sled base. The base should be (approx.) the width of the saw's metal top left to right when facing the saw), usually about 30" - 32". Add about 5" - 7" to the number you came up with for the front to back dimension (just insurance for any unforeseen wide stock you may have to cut in the future).
Next, for the runners, rip two strips of the hard wood to the length of the sled base (front to back), slightly wider than the table saw's miter slots, and fractionally not as deep. Carefully use a hand plane to trim the edges of the runners so that they fit the miter slots without any sloppiness.
Now it's time to mount the sled base to the runners. With the runners still in the miter slots, lay your plywood base on top using the saw's fence as a positioning guide. (Always remove the splitter when using the sled, and never use the table saw's fence while using the sled!) The base is attached to the runners with screws either from the base into the runners or runners into the base. In both cases the screws will have to be recessed to prevent scaring the work piece or damaging the miter slots. Make a pencil line going front to back over the middle of each miter slot - use this line to locate the correct screw position. Drill pilot holes, and screw the base to the runners.
The fences are the next to be mounted. Take your time to do these with precision. It will mean the difference between a great table saw jig, and one that can never make a 90 degree cut! The fences have to be tall enough to be able to run over the saw blade, and still have enough thickness to maintain structural integrity. Use hardwood that is at least 2" thick. Glue and screw a fence on the far side of the base. It doesn't have to be perfectly aligned because your wood won't be riding on it, but its base should be jointed flat to avoid pulling the base into a non-flat position.
Joint and plane the wood stock for the other fence so that it is perfectly flat and square. Position the fence and screw a single screw into it up through the base (this will act as a pivot for alignment). Carefully raise the blade on the saw (approx.) 2" and push the sled through the blade stopping 8" - 10" from the other side. Turn off, and unplug the saw - leave the sled in its position with the blade still in it. Lay an accurate square against the teeth (front and back) of the saw's blade, and align the fence so that it is perfectly 90 degrees to the cut. Clamp it in place and secure it with additional screws. Be sure not to mount any screws in the path of the spinning blade!!
Your sled is 98% done! For safety, glue a piece of 4"x4" by 5" long (one can be made by gluing up a few piece of scrap) to the back of the fence where the blade exits (closest to you). The blade will be buried in the block thus shielding it from you. A second bit of safety is to screw a piece of 3/16" Plexiglass (about 4" wide) from the front fence to the back. This will deflect errant chips, and will keep your hands out of the blades path.
I hope that helps. Please feel free to send along any questions that you may have.
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Dan,
How high are your fences in the crosscut sled? I was thinking of using 2X4's... Thanks...Regards,
Buzzsaw
Buzzsaw,
The fences on my sleds are between three and four inches high. You have to determine the maximum thickness of wood that you'd possibly be cutting and then add one inch (or more) (a guideline not a rule). The fence must retain good structural integrity. I also recommend a thick fence (mine are 1.75"+), and staggering the screws used to mount it to the sled. A tall thin fence has a greater tendency to flex under use.
If you have any additional questions, please feel free to ask!
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Edited 1/22/2004 7:52:25 PM ET by Jackie Chan
While you're building the crosscut sled, you might want to consider making a crosscut panel sled. It's a large piece of 1/4" MDF with one runner fitted to the left groove in the saw table. The fence is nothing more than a straight piece of 1X2 screwed to the MDF. Build it a little oversize and rip it down with the blade you use for ply. Leave the fence 2' or more wider than the sled base, and you can clamp stops for cutting face frame stiles and rails. The 80 tooth lam and ply blades make beautiful crosscuts on solid stock.
I am going to build one soon and have more than enough info.
One thing still unclear to me. Is the sled designed to sit on the table with the runners there simply to stabilise the lateral movement or are they (the runners) there to carry the sled as well so that the sled doesn't actually touch the table but rides on the runners?
Many thanks
The sled should ride on the tables, with the runners eliminating lateral movement. Make sure you use a good quality base, like baltic birch plywood, for example. If you want to make it really first class, laminate both sides. Make certain the fence is really flat and vertically perpendicular to the sled. The best way to fine tune the fence for a true perpendicularity to the travel is to cross-cut a board of constant width (i.e., both sides known to be parallel), then flip one piece over and see if they mate properly along the edges you just cut. If they don't, adjust the angle of the fence slightly until they do. It's easier to do than to describe in detail.
Dale
Many thanks for the great feedback.
Mike,
The runners are there to guide the sled through the cut without any lateral movement. To reduce friction, the runners are snug side to side in the miter slots, but a fraction of an inch above the bottom of the slot. The sled itself is in full contact with the table's surface.
If you have any additional questions, please feel free to ask!
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Edited 1/30/2004 10:15:39 PM ET by Jackie Chan
Many thanks for the reponse. It was very helpful
Dan,
The sled I am making is roughly 18" long, front to back. You mentioned using Plexiglass as a safety shield. Have you found a supplier for sheets larger than 12"X12" which is what most WW catalogs sell? Thanks in advance.
T2
T,
The home centers carry a variety of plexi' in different sizes and thicknesses. The key is to buy a piece that is thick enough to offer the optimum protection. On the guards that I fabricate, the shields are 3/16" to 1/4" thick.
You may find that some of the local Ace Hardware stores that offer window repairs also carry plexi'.
If you have any additional questions, please feel free to ask.Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Dan,
Thanks for getting back to me about sources for plexiglass. Just one additional question I should've asked earlier - what type of adhesive do you recommend for assembling plexi? Thanks again.
T2
T -
I don't glue the plexi', because if it ever gets damaged I want to be able to remove/replace it.
On my sleds, I designed a special three sided Lexan box that rides up and down on 1/2" (diameter) dowels mounted into the top of each fence (1 front, 1 back). This allows the blade to be guarded on the top and the sides no matter what the thickness is of the wood being cut. (See enclosed graphic) I purposely offset the post holes in the guard so I wouldn't be drilling into the fence directly above the blade. (Each post is 4.5" long)
The three Lexan panels are held together with multiple 3/4" recessed metal screws (more is better) driven through the Lexan into a hardwood (maple) angle bracket that runs the length of the guard (inside) on both sides. Its very solid, and because the posts are offset (see graphic) there is no twist or play of the guard - just a smooth up and down action.Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
For plexi or any acrylic the solvant cement is methylene cloride,the best glue(i.e. thick
visco. with gap fill )is Weld-on 40 or Weld-on 10 (one's clear and the other is white).
Art
One more plexi buying tip: Always make sure before buying that the protective paper will peel off easily. If it doesn't it's likely old or been in the sun. If the paper doesn't peel right up you will never get it off properly.
dave
Trusche2,
For plexiglas you might try a local glass supplier.
ASK
TAP Plastics also has all kinds & sizes of Lexan, etc.
Beismeyer makes one if you are lazy. Thats what I have and I like it.
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Mine is a 1/2" sheet of plywood with two UHMW runners fastened to the bottom. The ends are 2" thick oak that was scrap left over for a project.
Scott C. Frankland
Scott's WOODWORKING Website
"He who has the most tools may not win the race of life but he will sure make his wife look like a good catch when she goes to move on."
Scott,
How does the UMVH work. I have been thinking of using it on my sled. Any problems with it?
ASK
Works great it doesn't move with the change in the seasons and slides well and is friendly on the blades if you happen to cut into it. Have it one several jigs.Scott C. Frankland
Scott's WOODWORKING Website"He who has the most tools may not win the race of life but he will sure make his wife look like a good catch when she goes to move on."
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