Tablesaw Dado Blades: Which One???
I could use some good advice. I am just getting into woodworking, and between raising the kids and bringing home a paycheck, there is not a lot of time to invest. But I really enjoy the time spent planning and then making something. For me woodworking is turning into a way to relax and also do something constructive. I love the concept that “The project justifies the tool”. Anyway, I am starting to slowly acquire the tools needed. With Christmas coming up I hope to get a dado blade for the Craftsman tablesaw my wife generously gave me for our anniversary last year. I want to get a good quality blade that costs about a$100 ( I could probably go higher if spending the $100 is a waste of money). I probably don’t need a sherman tank since I am going to be the occasional weekend woodworker. The problem is which blade to get. I have lots of questions.
1. Has Fine Woodworking, or anyone else done a review of dado blades in the last few years? Where else should I go to see what experienced people think about different blades.
2. 6 inch or 8 inch: What are the pros and cons.
3. Carbide?
4. Stacked or dial-in? I would be concerned that the dial-in ones might cut alright, but I don’t know about being able to get the dial to exactly the same spot and be able to accurately repeat the same width.
5. What width capability should I shoot for. I see that some are about 3/4 inch while others cut wider.
6. If there is anything else that I am not considering, but should be, please comment.
Thanks so much for your help and comments.
cartbob
Replies
I guess the blade you buy will have to depend on the type of work you expect to do. A few years ago I tried a "wobble" blade from Sears. I guess the price was most attractive. Stacking sets generally cost more and I was hoping that I could get by for less $$. If you don't need square edges in the dado (never expect to see them) I guess the wobble blade will do the job. I build jewlery boxes and fine joinery is a must. I returned the wobble blade and went with a stacking set.
I got the Systematic 8 inch set, it was about double the price of the wobble blade. I think it goes out to 13/16 which is more than I generally need. Be careful with a dado set, there is alot more resistance than a single blade. Take shallow cuts in hard wood and raise the blade for the next pass until you reach the desire depth.
Another very important consideration that you cannot overlook is that there must be enough space on the arbor for the dado set plus the washer and nut. A friend tried my set on his saw and there wasn't enough room for the washer so he had to buy the wobble set.
Definately try to get carbide, even on a cheaper set.
I think for the most part in tools there aren't any shortcuts, you get what you pay for. Just think about what you plan to build, if you're going to be building shelves for the garage or a playset for the kids you might not want to use an expensive blade set. I can't imagine cutting into some PT 2 x 4 with my set but the wobble blade set wouldn't bother me.
hope this wordy explanation helps, I'll be interested to read other comments,
Hugh
I use the delta stacked 8" dado. Its carbide tipped and runs about 89-100 bucks. It does all I need and I built a lot of good stuff using it.
At Darkworks cut to size made to burn......Putty isnt a option
Cartbob:
If you're willing to spend $100, the Freud SD206 and SD208 are great (one is 6 inch, the other 8). These are stacked dado blades which cut very well--smooth bottoms. I use my 208 in a Delta Contractor's saw. Bought it for $89 from Amazon last summer. Costs $85 right now:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0000223O9/qid%3D1036888748/sr%3D11-1/ref%3Dsr%5F11%5F1/002-7957833-5671216
Some will question an 8-inch in a contractors TS, but I find it works very well.
Purds
Ihave a Jet 10" t/s and use an 8" stacked dado set. I have cut up to 3/4" wide and had no problems but take shallow (less then a 1/4" dp) at any one time.
Dave in Pa.
Cartbob,
I recently bought the Freud 8-inch Pro Dado Set and heve been using it for a couple of weeks. I noticed that it has fewer teeth than other dados I have used, so I must feed stock more slowly. Other than that, I have not had any problems. I almost bought it at my local home improvement store, but all of their sets had at least one chipped tooth. So, I bought it from amazon.
Here's a message about using a stacked dado set on a Sears saw. It gives a solution to the problem with the Sears arbor.
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-knots&msg=8790.3&maxT=4
Robert in Albuquerque
I use the Freud 6" dado set (Safety Dado, SD306) and the quality is excellent. The price was too ($125). An 8" set taxes your saw more, and the extra cutting capability may never come into play for you, so you can save some money and wear and tear on your saw by sticking to a 6".
The quality of the Freud dado set, which is the first "fancy" blade I bought for my Jet saw, is one of the reasons I've gravitated toward Freud saw blades when I started building up a collection of specialized blades.
IMO, don't waste your money on the dial-in sets, wobble dados, etc. Get a quality set from the get-go and you'll not have to do it all over again next year.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Gotta agree with Lady of the Grove--er, Forestgirl, on this. The Freud 6" is a good basic dado set that will likely dig deeper trenches than you will normally ever need, and will probably tax your 120V TS motor less than an 8" set.
As others have said, never try to hog out a deep dado all at once. Go in several shallow passes; when cutting wider dadoes, use even shallower cuts, since the resistance can be fierce. Needless to say, push blocks are a must.
". . .and only the stump or fishy part of him remained."
Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township
cartbob
I have the Freud Super 6 which cost a little more, but have used the Pro 6 as FG. For under $100 they are great. Everything else seems to be covered. One more time, don't take too deep a pass.
Good Luck
sarge..jt
Hiya Sarge, where you been? Clarification here: As usual Freud provides us with more options than we can keep track of.
I have the Safety Dado (SD306)
Sarge has the Super Dado (SD506) and has used the
Pro Dado (SD206)
The Super is the top of the line, the Safety in the middle, and the "Pro" is the economy model. This model has 2-wing chippers, so is recommended for "underpowered" saws.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Further clarification:
SD200 Pro Series, SD500 Super Series and SD600 Dial-A-Width are excellent for all materials including delicate veneers and laminates. Negative hook angles create more feed resistance. SD200 has fewer teeth for lower powered saws. SD600 is a true stacked dado with a dial hub to eliminate shimming.
SD300 Safety Series is best for solid wood and has smooth, fast feed.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Jamie
Howdy.. Probaly a good idea to clarify as you stated. As Charles pointed out in the next post, Freud has a selection that fits everyone's needs and pocket-book. That's one of the reasons I prefer Freud.
On vacation last week, meaning 16 hour days in the shop. Ha.. Managed to enclose my scroll saw cabinet and add a built-on vacuum system that is hidden inside. Also enclosed the spindle sander cabinet and added about 60 lbs to each of the above. Eliminated all vibration as both are on casters so I can roll them outside in nice weather.
Researched and bought a jointer. On a truck from Seattle headed SE. Been pretty busy beaver as the weather is pleasant for working in the shop here in Atlanta. About 70* today. Leaves have just fully changed here. Late again as last year. Global warming?? Maybe..
BTW, saw an Excalibur quick release splitter that is new in I believe new copy Popular WW. Might check out there site if you would be interested.
Stay in touch..
sarge..jt
Wow, Sarge, you've had quite a week!! Yep, Freud has a heck of a selection. I'm now wondering if, when I work on sheet goods with my Safety Dado, there's something I can do to help keep down any splintering (at the time I bought it, the Super Dado was out of the picture price-wise). Pre-score the work?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie
I haven't done a lot of dadoes in sheet goods. Are you getting the splintering on entry and exit only, or the outside edges. Or both, for that matter. If just at entry and exit, might clamp or tack a sacrificial piece to front and rear. Your idea with scoring sounds solid. Couldn't hurt. Try it on some scrap and let me know. Would be curious to see a solution.
With any luck someone that has experienced will chime in if they have found a workable solution. Do you suppose those high paid engineers at Freud might have a solution and are holding back on us. Too bad nobody from Freud reads these post. he..he..
Keep me posted as I'm sure anyone that reads this would like to eliminate it before it occurs. BTW, how's the jersey case project coming. Haven't heard you make any negative comments, so I assume all is well..
Have a good evening..
sarge..jt
Hi Sarge. That was a theoretical question, in case I have occasion to run dados in that thin-veneered plywood Charles was referring to. So far, I've only used it in cheap ply making shop shelves and such, and in solid wood. It does a great job.
re: Jersey case, I've been foolin' around with different stains and sanding techniqes. Tried the paste filler on two more sample boards. Keep getting the white cr*p in the pores -- don't know if it's the Daly's filler or what. Looks like I'm gonna go with the "sanding with Watco" technique, as it seems to work fairly well. I've had the wood acclimating here at home long enough to feel I can mill it now with no ill-effects. Plane tonight, sand tomorrow!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie,
IME the problem with many of the less-expensive veneered products is consistency. Often, plywood that chips easily on one face is fine on the other. With the Safety Dado you can attempt a cut in some scrap to test for the best side or you could use wide masking tape over the dado area to minimize any splintering. Another trick is to take a very light pass that only scores the material wth the outer bevel teeth then make passes to remove the meat of the groove.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Hi Charles, your response brings to mind another area of questions -- depth of passes with a dado set. What little work I've done in that respect has been all in one swell foop, as they say. Here at Knots, I've been seeing recommendations to take multiple passes. In your opinion, how deep should one pass be in various materials? Say a soft wood such as pine, hardwood such as oak, melamine, particle board?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Sorry to be vague, but there are too many variables: the width of cut, the power of the machine, the material, the moisture content of the material.... The concept is the same as with any cutter; let the cutter do the work. I think you will be able to tell quickly if you are loading the machine and should drop the cutter down. You can't make too many passes.
Charles M
Freud, Inc.
Jamie
Charlie Mac is correct in too many variables. You will get a feel as you go. Width of cut, hardness of wood all come into play. I personally never take more than 1/8" in hardwood and 3/16" in soft if the width is more than 1/2". Just a general rule of thumb. You get into hickory, ash or lignumvitae I take no more than 1/16". Is this conservative. Probaly, but I have never had a kick-back with a 1 1/2 HP saw and never ruined a piece of stock. I am more concerned with safety and the quality of cut than how quickly I can get it done. The advantage we amateurs have over those with dead-lines.
The dado blade is not a razor sharp surgical knife designed to make intricate cuts in soft material. Respect it and use it correctly and the job gets done. It just requires patience. Patience is very cheap compared to medical bills and ruined stock. Just pay attention when you use the dado. Soon, you won't have to ask. You'll just know..
sarge..jt
One thing you may want to consider when you get your dado set is the necessity of buying additional zero-clearance table inserts. The one that comes with the saw will only allow you to use a stack depth of about 3/8" +or-. It is pretty scary when you turn on the saw with no insert and there is nothing between you and all those rpm's of the blade. The inserts are about $20 ea or you can make them yourself using the one that came with the saw as a template.
Put a couple of those in your stockings.
Marcello
I enjoy making the Z-clearance inserts for the dado head, due to the fact that the dado blades sink far enough below the surface of the tabletop to make the whole process easy. Saves a lot of money over the buying-them option. Hard part (for me and the Jet) was getting wood the right thickness before I had a planer.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I think I will try making a few with 5, 10, and 15 deg. angles. You can never have enough.
I HAVE THE FREUD SUPER DADO, I PAID ABOUT $185.00 @ ROCKLER A YEAR AGO, I USE IT ON MY RIDGID CONTRACTOR SAW A LOT & IT WORKS GREAT. HAS A NICE CASE & COMES WITH SHIMS. I BOUGHT THE 8 INCH BECAUSE I WANT TO USE IT ON MY RADIAL ARM SAW AS WELL & WANT AS MUCH DEPTH AS I CAN GET. HAVE FUN!!!!!!!
Edited 11/11/2002 3:51:54 PM ET by JIMSWOODWRKS
I use the Delta 8" stacked dado. This set goes up to 13/16" and does a nice job on hardwoods.One hint, make an insert for your saw with a slight bump ( about 1/8" ) in the middle of the insert .When pushing stock thru, the dado will be the same depth all the way even if the stock is not absolutely flat. Naturally the dado height will be measured from the high point of the insert.
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