Replies

1. 
   sschefer | May 07, 2002 11:13pm | #1

   Not sure what your bolt patern is but my Jet has three bolts. I get the center bolt set first then apply pressure to the areas of the inner and outer bolts when tightening to get them to flatten out. While they may appear to be flat, they do flex and sometimes machining flaws can cause the problems you're encountering. No big deal as long as you can get them flat but it will cause you problems if they are not. Things like your miter gauge hanging up and sleds that dont sit flat etc..

   Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   Hophornbeam | May 07, 2002 11:29pm | #2

   So.......What you are saying is...Flat "is" flat. No gap what so ever when an accurate straight edge is placed across the table & wings?

1. 
   sschefer | May 07, 2002 11:35pm | #3

   An accurate straight edge corner to corner and you should not be able to hang a fingernail on the joint anywhere. .005 is what I've always used as acceptable some might argue that this is too much and others might say it's too much to expect. I personally think its about right. My jet is beyond that right now and I intend to have the top and the wings re-machined when I tear it appart for cleaning this fall.Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   Hophornbeam | May 07, 2002 11:48pm | #4

   Thanks Steve. That gives me something to go on. I was figuring that .005 would be acceptable. After all, wood as a medium, even after we work it , is not perfect.

   I think I will remove the wings(3 bolts like yours), clean the mating surfaces, make sure they are smooth, and try again.

1. 
   wallygs | May 07, 2002 11:58pm | #5

   Try taking a good file to the bottom of the wings edge that joins to the table saw. Don't file pst half way up. If there is a dent or burr there it will not let it seat properly.

   Wally

2. 
   Hophornbeam | May 08, 2002 12:42am | #6

   Thanks Wally. I'll be sure to inspect it closely.

3. 
   Andrew | May 08, 2002 01:00am | #7

   from your description i'm assuming that the extension wings and the main table aren't sitting flush with each other. what you might want to try is to get a copper rod about 1.5" in diameter and about 6" long. with the bolts tightened up tap the table and extension wing along the seam and then check with your straight edge. unless you are using a precision straight edge like a starrett, you also have to take into consideration that the straight edge could be out by a few thou.

   i would say that .005 is a reasonable tolerance for a table saw top. my advice would be to forget about things being perfect and to go have fun in your shop instead. if it gives you any problems then you can go back and fix things up. hope this helps

4. 
   Hophornbeam | May 08, 2002 03:49am | #8

   I am using a Starrett where the edges of the table and extensions meet. The mating edge is perfect. From the mating edge the wings rise. If I add 1 piece of scotch tape it lowers them a bit. 2 pieces of tape makes them slope away from the main table. Thanks for the have fun reminder. It is good advice.

2. 
   Hophornbeam | May 08, 2002 06:51am | #9

   Yes, I have tried different tape; but I never thought of aluminum foil.

   Thanks Dave.

1. 
   sschefer | May 08, 2002 08:07am | #10

   Tape, aluminum foil, why not playing cards. Forget that.....Try the method I suggested or get them re-machined so that all faces match. Anything else is hokey and can be problematic. O.K. someone here is going to tell me that they've had tinfoil in their saw for 5 years without any problems. To that I say.. shame on you. Fix it right and forget about it for the next 20 yearsSteve - in Northern California

1. 
   Andrew | May 08, 2002 06:23pm | #13

   Steve, you mentioned getting your table top reground. just wondering, have you priced it out yet? grinding a surface the size of a tablesaw top to a tight tolerance won't be cheap. a friend of mine spent over $500 having a cast iron table top reground. by the time you factor in all of the costs in fixing up your saw, you'd be well on you way, if not past the cost of a nice cabinet saw FWIW.

1. 
   sschefer | May 08, 2002 06:27pm | #14

   Actually, its who you know not what you pay. I have a friend that is going to do it for free. It will cost me I can guarantee that but probably in labor, I know he wants a new sprinkler system installed this summer. Trade work whenever possible just make sure the trade is fair.

   Steve - in Northern California

   Edited 5/8/2002 11:28:48 AM ET by Steve Schefer

1. 
   Andrew | May 09, 2002 12:46am | #15

   it's always nice to have friends like that isn't it. i wish i knew someone with a blanchard grinder.

3. 
   forestgirl | May 08, 2002 08:35am | #11

   If Steve's method doesn't work, it might be time to test the customer service of the saw-manufacturer.  They certainly should fix it if it's that far out of flat.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

4. 
   patternmaker | May 08, 2002 12:53pm | #12

   It seems from your description that either the edges of the table or the edges of the wings are not machined at a true ninety degrees.If you want to solve the problem yourself,carry the three parts to a competent machine shop and have them re- machined. If the wing edges are not perfectly square,I doubt that the edges of the top are.While you have the parts off,you might lay the the wings face to face to determine whether they are truly flat. If iron castings are not properly aged and normalized,before machining,they can move and change slightly as a piece of wood might.In this day of corner cutting ,I suspect that some of the manufacturers are not as dedicated as they might be. ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

5. 
   Hophornbeam | May 09, 2002 03:01pm | #16

   Thanks for all the suggestions and information. The table is now flat......I'll keep you all posted on how well the aluminum foil holds up........Sorry Steve (-:

6. 
   PlaneWood | May 09, 2002 06:42pm | #17

   Hornbeam-

   While the TS and the wings may have flat top surfaces, the edges are probably not at 90 degrees with the tops.  Manufacturing companies 'forget' to machine the edges to the same accuracy as the tops.

   I would not use tape or aluminum foil as shims as both will 'creep' with time.  Brass shims would be preferable and can be obtained at most hardware stores.  ACE hardware stores will have a brass display and generally have a shim kit contains an assortment of thicknesses.  One or two thicknesses of the .001" shims should do the trick.  After shimming the joints, use a .005" shim to test the outside edges of the extensions under a straight edge.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood