The bolt that attaches the blade guard is bent from the weight of a long cutoff (I was ripping a 2×4). I assume that should not have happened, so could somebody tell me:
What is supposed to happen to the wood once it gets past the pawls?
I’ve been letting the pieces fall to the concrete floor, and luckily, no corners have gotten mashed. Should I have a table ready to catch the pieces?
Replies
DW,
I've got a few rollaround, Formica topped tables, same height as the saw table. When cutting long material, I put one to support the workpiece on the infeed side, and one on the outfeed side. They don't steer the piece like rollers, and they're useful for assembly, unlike tables with ball bearing supports. Kept slippery with wax, material slides on them as well as it slices over the saw table.
Gary
Yes, You should have a outfeed table to catch the wood . - Kris
I went the more expensive route and had kids. These tables don't talk back or complain do they? Maybe it's time to upgrade?? ;*)
Don
I'm no expert, but it seems to me you're inviting big trouble by not having your longer stock supported when it exits the back of the saw. As the leading end goes down, the end still on the saw goes up and going up gives it a golden opportunity to come in contact with the spinning TS blade and convert into a missle, possibly guiding an important appendage into the blade or scoring a direct hit on your body.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 11/1/2002 9:46:21 PM ET by forest_girl
DW -
Here's a link for a rock solid folding outfeed table for a cabinet tablesaw. I've build similar models for both tablesaws and radial arm saws in my shop, and can tell you they work and are built to last. http://members.aol.com/Alamaral/Outfeed.html
Dan Kornfeld - Owner/President, Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
I saw an ad in one of my WW Mags recently for a new outfeed stand, it isn't a roller or ball bearing type. It had a small top that is tilted toward the saw so if your board drooped a little it would raise the end of the board up and the top flattens out and supports the exiting board. The cost was estimated at about $30 at Home Depot. It looks like a pretty good idea to me. I have a roller stand type and on occasion I have had a board droop a little and my stand would end up on the floor plus if a roller type isn't parallel with your ts your board can skew off to one side.
Count Your Blessings and Your Fingers often
les
DW
I got a 14" extention built on the back rails. I added a 34" extention to it that attaches to hinges. The rear of 14" extention is 36" inches from the garage door. The table swings up and locks giving me 48" support to the rear and 60" from the rear of blade teeth. I have ripped to 14". I open the garage door and put adjustable height rollers beyond the friction tables. The end roller has a stop welded to it so board won't roll off on stock that long. BTW, I drop the height of the rollers 1/8" from the height of friction table so it has a slight down-hill angle.
Good luck..
sarge..jt
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