Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Aug 23, 2010 12:05pm | #1

   You could if the table edge is parallel with the blade. Of course, you'll have to balance the sled so it doesn't tip off the saw. There is a lot of opportunity for inaccuracy if you don't use the miter slots. Depending on the type of sled and what you are doing, you have to be extremely careful returning the sled. If you get askew when backing up, you might be in for a sled lunch. Is there a reason you don't want to use the miter slots?

1. 
   JeanPetitclerc | Aug 23, 2010 01:49pm | #2

   Thanks for the advices.

   The reason why I look for alternatives instead of using the miter slots is because of the shape of the miter slots. There are 2 little teeths that prevent me to slide a rectangular slider. I would have to make t-shape sliders like the one under the miter guide. See picture. There are 2 teeths in the front and in the back of each slot.

   Thank you

   Jean

   
1. 
   hammer1 | Aug 23, 2010 04:07pm | #3

   Jean, you could make slides like, or similar to, the slide your miter head is attached to. You could buy another miter head, too, and use two for a removable sled. Those bump outs in the slots are kind of neat. They prevent the miter head from tipping when its pulled back to its capacity. Might be handy with a sled. Whether you make some T shaped slides or use a thin piece with a spacer on top, something like a bushing, I think you could be successful if you wanted to.

   Its also possible to use the fence, as long as its parallel with the blade, as a guide for one side of the sled, clamp a straight guide to the saw table top for the opposite side of the sled. This will prevent the sled moving from side to side during or after a cut.

   Just adding a wooden bar to your miter head can be a big help and you may not need a sled with that. I glue a strip of sandpaper to mine so work pieces won't slip. If the bar is long enough, you can clamp a stop for cutting multiples of the same size without measuring each one.

1. 
   JeanPetitclerc | Aug 23, 2010 05:49pm | #4

   Currently experiencing with a 1/4 inch plywood cut at a width of 5/8" for the bottom part of the slot and a 1/8" thick masonite on top of it for the narrower section cut at a width of 1/2". The height looks good and it slides well. I will try to glue them together and screw those masterpieces ;o)  to the board.

   We'll see.

   Thanks

   Jean

2. 
   zolton | Aug 24, 2010 07:54am | #5

   Filing..

   Jean,

   A mill file would take care of those pesky teeth pretty quick!

   It's strange that they're there. I mean, I see their point - I guess. But having those teeth in the way means you can't use a number of very useful items. Were it me, I'd probably file them away and be done with it. The miter gauge seems as though it will still work fine without them..

   Zolton 

3. 
   swenson | Aug 24, 2010 08:26am | #6

   With very large pieces like table tops I have seen pictures of woodworkers screwing a wooden guide directly to the underside of the workpiece where screw holes wouldn't be seen, and running this guide against the side of the tablesaw.  When pieces get large they get kind of tippy for one man to handle and sometimes I use a bag of lead birdshot directly on top of a large piece to move the center of gravity back over the saw.   

4. 
   davcefai | Aug 26, 2010 12:57pm | #7

   Before I bought my tablesaw I had a circular saw mounted in a Wolfcraft machine table as a poor man's substitute. It had no mitre slots so I used the sides of the table as guides.

   It worked quite well. I started out with an unreasonably tight fit and then sanded and waxed until I got I got the sled running sweetly. Your mileage may vary.