Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | May 05, 2002 07:02am | #1

   Few stock miter gauges fit perfectly in their miter slots, so you can wiggle the miter gauge back and forth (ever so slightly) from right to left.  This can cause small, but significant, problems when doing precision work.

   Aftermarket gauges (such as the Incra 1000 I use) have adjustments that can be made to "snug" the miter bar within the slot.  The Incra as several nylon washers set into the bar, that are expandable with the use of an allen wrench.  If I get it adjusted just right, the bar will not budge (in a wiggle-sort-of-way) within the slot, but it still moves without undue effort.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

   PS:  That particular feature is part of a full package of precision adjustments possible with the Incra.  Other aftermarket gauges have similar features.

   
   

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   Edited 5/5/2002 12:05:02 AM ET by forest_girl

   
   

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   Edited 5/5/2002 12:06:17 AM ET by forest_girl

2. 
   sschefer | May 05, 2002 10:00am | #2

   Jase, Forest_girl is absolutely correct. Like she says, the better ones are adjustable. However, in between strugling with your current one and buying a new one, you can build a sled with an adjustable mitre fence and accomplish some very accurate cuts. You can find plans for them in just about every Jig and Fixture book you pick up. Check your local library. When you do get ready to buy a new gauge, keep the Incra's on the top of your list. Others might argue but I think they give you the most bang for the buck.

   Steve - in Northern California

1. 
   danmcleod | May 06, 2002 04:21am | #3

   Try a heavy duty nail punch on the side of the guide bar. A few good whacks causes a small depression and at the same time the expansion tightens the guide bar, Cheap and correctible with a file if you are overly aggressive. Make a sled, it works better and is safer. 

2. 
   DonC | May 10, 2002 08:40pm | #5

   Hi Steve,

   A pal and I went to a Woodworking show and he bought a commercial sled called the "Dubby" sliding table saw. There are several competitors now including INCRA.

   Anyway I duplicated my pals Dubby and the salesman told us his sled has an intentionally narrower phenolic slide than standard 3/4" table top groove. When cutting with the Dubby, pressure is applied toward the fence. On the return palth pressure is applied away from the fence. I must say, it works perfect. I have made a Dubby sled for the left and right side of the blade. My CAD program has a feature called "Mirror Copy." So once I had the scale made it was easy to duplicate it for the other side of the blade. It's only necessary to have a sled for both sides if you are cutting a molding that doesn't have a flat surface to lay on the sled.

   Anyway, sometimes a narrow gauge bar is good.

   Don

   Edited 5/10/2002 1:54:26 PM ET by DONC4

1. 
   Alan | May 11, 2002 02:11am | #6

   Many moons ago, when I actually had a table saw--with plenty of slop--and before there were, or at least before I was aware of, all the aftermarket fixes there are now, I went down to the local hardware store and bought two "button" catches.  Still very much available, these consist of two parts:  a plate with a dimple in it, which I threw away; and a small cylinder with a spring in the bottom, a little flange around the top, and a little ball bearing sticking out the top.  All I did was drill two holes in the same side of the bar, one near each end, and epoxied in the little ball catches.  It took a little fussing and fitting to get it just right--very little.  Worked like a charm; and cost all of about 72 cents.

   Alan

3. 
   alexlisa | May 10, 2002 07:54pm | #4

   My Jet contractor's saw miter slot is real sloppy. I got a Fastrack deluxe miter guide with adjustable phenolic plugs along the length of the miter bar. Even with these, the width of the miter slot is not consistent along it's entire length, so a perfect fit at one end is a little tight at the other, so I don't get a real smooth slide on my miter guage. I suppose I could find the high spots and file them down, but I worry about screwing it up. Maybe a tight fitting wood runner coated with lapping compound would do the trick? Suggestions?

1. 
   Andrew | May 11, 2002 02:39am | #7

   i think using a brass bar the size of your miter slot along with some coarse lapping compound would do the trick quite nicely. you could also just take a flat bar with some sandpaper and sand down the tight spot with a fine grit sandpaper. i would recommend getting a dial caliper if you don't have one so you can check your width easily and accurately. hope this helps

2. 
   forestgirl | May 11, 2002 06:53am | #8

   I did some file work on mine, with no problems.  Just take your time, don't be too aggressive, and keep the file flat so you don't create a bevel where you don't want it.  Oh, and keep the as much as the file as possible riding on the side you're filing -- that way you're not filing into anything, but just along the slot.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)