I don’t know if Joinery is the right sub, but you might see why I thought so.
Let me start by saying I’m a novice for sure and am open to any and all suggestions, insights, and criticism.
I want to attach a small tabletop that is 3/4″ thick and small. It’s a corner table 2’x2′ diamond shape. There are some small aprons.
I’ve looked up options and am not a big fan of anything I’ve seen. I was hoping you guys would have some pictures maybe or ideas of elegant ways to do this in hopes I’ll see something I like.
I’d like to not use metal like z or 8 clips.
I like to use only wood. Maybe that’s silly, but I like the idea of using wood and glue if possible.
I’ve seen people make little wood blocks with a piece sticking out that does the same things as a z clip. It still takes a screw, though, and not sure if I glued the block instead if it would defeat the whole purpose anyway..? Also, it seems kind of sketchy to make them so small.
Another question. In the past, I’ve just done a big fat vertical domino to join legs to tops. (I expect fire from this.) Something tells me maybe that’s not a good idea. Is wood splitting from swelling glue a concern? Strength has seemed reasonable. I’m 240 lbs and can put my whole weight with some bouncing.
I’m just curious if this is an option or something I should never repeat.
Please help with some direction. I can’t make heads or tails and would like to know what people with lifetimes more experience than me would do normally or could recommend.
Replies
The small wooden blocks with "a piece sticking out" are called buttons and are a good way to attach top to aprons in a fashion allowing any differential wood movement between the top and the aprons to be accommodated.
As you say, the usual attachment of a button is via a screw through the button into the underside of the table top. However, if you're very careful in placing the button tabs in the bigger-than-the-tabs apron slots, you can glue the buttons to the underside of the top. You need to make sure that, when you do, the button tabs in the apron slots have room to move to accommodate potential differential expansion & contraction of the aprons with respect to the top.
This would be a permanent arrangement, unlike with a screw which allows you to take out the buttons to remove the top. I do this often with some outdoor tables to make refinishing them easier. (They need to be re-protected from the weather with Treatex or similar every year).
On the other hand, if the table is very small and your house atmosphere doesn't have large seasonal swings in humidity levels, you could probably just attach the top to the aprons with simple glue-blocks. No need for buttons and their tabs-in-slots if the differential movement is very small-to-none.
Lataxe
Wow, you have such great replies, thanks.
I think I'll go for glued buttons, then.
I would think the finger of the buttons thickness should be very tight fitting in the apron slot right?
How thick should the finger and slot be though?
I would guess they would be relatively chonky since they would be load-bearing if the table is ever lifted from the top and scooted around.
Do you have a standard size you usually go for when making these?
Ideally the top of the button tab should press firmly on the top of the apron slot - but not so firmly that the friction between the two surfaces prevents movement. You can put them in quite loose, which means that the table top can move and rattle easily if the whole table is shaken. Are you a table shooker? :-)
The thickness of the tab (and corresponding height of the slot) depends very much on the type of timber used for the buttons. Some timbers are brittle or cleave easily along their grain when a force (including gravity) rives at them. Others are more resilient.
Personally I use European / British ash, as the fibres are quite springy and it splits less easily than many other timbers. 6mm or 1/4" is wide enough. Try to select bits for buttons that have complex rather than straight grain, as straight grain splits more easily.
Festool dominoes can be used, if that's what you use to make the apron slot (on the wider-than-the-domino setting). They're compressed beech and quite strong - although you still have to consider the inclination of the button body to cleave, since buttons as well as their tabs can fracture and split.
Lataxe
Check out the six ways ..
How to Attach a Tabletop
Six methods to control and direct wood movement
By Mario Rodriguez #163–May/June 2003 Issue
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2003/06/01/how-to-attach-a-tabletop
Thanks for the link. The cleats seem neat. i might try that on the next one.
Mostly I use buttons or cleats. Both require screws, which I don't mind at all.
bentsusi, it is not a crime to use metal connectors like screws and fasteners in situations where they are the most efficient way to solve a problem. As long as you are aware of the direction of seasonal movement in the top, I'm much more trusting of screws to hold than cross grain glue-ups. And you are right - the likelihood of being picked up by the top (and people standing on the table) affects the design.
If your top is 2x2, that reads square to me. I would imagine diamond means you've turned it 90 degrees and have long grain and glue joints running corner to corner. In that case I think I would fasten solidly in the "long" corners and try to cut grooves in the other opposing legs. They would have to be deep enough for glued on buttons to move in and out, or glue the button tails into the grooves and have elongated holes in the thick end to allow for movement over a screw. Any expansion/contraction will be 45 degrees to your aprons, so fasteners there would have to swing a bit, depending on humidity fluctuations where you are. A 2x2 table isn't likely to separate by lifting by the top.
Rob Cosman shows a nice alternative to the traditional button style by using dowels. Try finding the video on his YT channel.
Figure 8's are my dominant choice. I also use Z-clips and shop made "buttons".