Replies

1. 
   ring | Jun 19, 2007 08:16am | #1

   You can certainly inlay veneer. Check out whatever info you can find on marquetry.

   The size of the inlay is going to affect some aspects. Here's 2 to consider:

   1. You can use a router and straight bit running in a template to make the recess you will need for the inlay. The larger the pattern the more this becomes preferable to chiseling. However, you need to consider what the router base will be riding on at every stage of the process. It's often possible to start at the middle and work outwards so you've always got half the base supported.

   2. The grain direction of the veneer has to take into account the movement of the maple substrate. On small pieces the veneer may be quite forgiving, but a long strip running cross-grain to the maple will be prone to problems later on. Sometimes the strips can be broken into separate sections, etc.

   If this is your first time I would seriously suggest that you make a complete practice inlay on something other than your tabletop. It's the kind of task that is not that difficult once you've gone through it. But the first one is bound to have some goof-up that will forever plague you if it's right there in the center of the table.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

2. 
   rjones69 | Jun 19, 2007 08:05pm | #2

   Dustin,

   I attached a pic of a maple leaf I just recently completed using the procedure in the following link. 

   http://www.woodworking.org/InfoExchange/viewtopic.php?t=3913

   Good luck with whichever way you decide to go!

    

   ---

   Edited 6/19/2007 1:07 pm by rjones69

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/20/2007 6:32 pm by rjones69

   
1. 
   dmortimer21 | Jun 21, 2007 02:47am | #7

   That looks really nice!  That size of template would work well for my table.  Initially I was thinking of putting one very large inlay in the middle of the table (maybe 2'x2').  But with my limited amount of experience I don't think that would be wise.  Also I don't want the table being overwhelmed by a giant design.  Perhaps four crosses, 5"x5" at each end of the table would be appropriate.

   I will post pics when I'm done guys.  Give me a few more weeks to make some practice inlays.  Wish me luck!

    

   Dustin

1. 
   rjones69 | Jun 21, 2007 03:17am | #8

   Actually that was done without a template:)  I pretty much just followed the procedures in one of my earlier links.  One thing you may want to do is print out the size of the cross you want to inlay first then reduce and enlarge from there to get your proporations right.  Other than that just take your time, practice and you should do fine.  Did I mention take your time??  Someone else mentioned that and I couldn't agree more!!  Yes we want to see pics too!!

3. 
   user-196729 | Jun 19, 2007 09:38pm | #3

   Make sure the maltese cross is in proportion to the table top, not too large or too small.  If this is something that you can buy someplace, go with the various sizes they have available and use the one that may look right for the inlay on the top.  If you are making this from scratch, again use the correct size for the table top.  I would recommend no larger than 5"  for your top.  Once you have the inlay, try a prototype on scrap lumber to get the feel how the piece will go in.  Use an exacto knife to scribe around the inlay, then rout out the materiel for the inlay, finally use a sharp chisel to finish the edges. Do this on scrap until you feel comfortable with it.

1. 
   dmortimer21 | Jun 19, 2007 10:42pm | #4

   Thanks for the response.  I hope I can feel confident enough to do this!

1. 
   woodwish | Jun 20, 2007 10:35pm | #5

   Please post a picture when finished, this sounds like a real project of love.  I am not a fireman but have a lot of good friends that are, I may add something like this to my ever-growing project list.

2. 
   user-196729 | Jun 21, 2007 12:55am | #6

   Your welcome.  If you can get a set of carving tools they will help get the final edges flush with the routed out inlay depth.  Inlay work is a very precise project and when done right is an eye opener for those whom see it, in it's finished form.  Patience is what is needed when doing a certain form of inlay, which is the one you are doing.  The first couple of times will be frustrating when doing it on scrap lumber.  Feel the router do it's job and you will soon produce a good result.  Practicing on scrap gives you a chance to try your new skill and after several attempts you will be surprised just how easy it can be.  Leave the finished edges for the carving tools or chisels and it will turn out much better.  When glueing use titebond III, not a polyurethane.  Polyurethane expands and if you don't clean it up properly, you will have to sand or scrape the whole surface to remove the sqeeze-out down to solid wood.  This is not a project for the timid or woodworker that has limited skills.  Again I have to stress patience.  Post the finished table, all of us like to see the final result.