good afternoon,
being new on this discussion channel I try to get an answer on how to make a specific tabletop for a dining table. in our country it’s quitte popular to have the legs extended into the top, so that you can see the top from the leg from above. usually there are at the far end at all four corners. the top is made of massive wood.
my question is : how to make the joinery with four adjacent frames at all sides , the legs in the corners and without having the chance of breaking the table due to woodmovement.
I would be very glad with any helpfull suggestions. thanks for responding.
ton wildeman,
siddeburen,
the netherlans, europe.
Replies
The long grain of the skirt could be screwed to the top and the other skirt which would be going cross grained to the up should be allowed to float. It would screwed in the center and expansion slots at the other ends. It's pretty much the same as breadboard ends in application.
good evening RickL,
thanks for your prompt reply. the long end is a good idea. about the short ends I've my doubts, because the breadboard will be in between the legs, as the entire top will be. how do you think this will work out? In my opinion the seasonal movement could break the legs on the short side apart.
will read your comment with interest.
kind regards,
ton wildeman.
If I understand him, I think I agree with Rick. I drew a quick picture:
http://home.comcast.net/~samson141/table_top_puzzle.bmp
(NOTE: expand diagram to full size by putting cursor over pic until the small expansion button appears at the lower right - click it to expand - this will aloow you to read the notes more easily)
wood moved across it's grain, the long grain moves very little if at all. Thus, this configuration allows movement where it is necessary. Hope this helps.
Edited 1/18/2006 2:57 pm ET by Samson
good evening samson,
it's amazing how fast this discussion panel works. thanks very much for your comment. like rickL you suggestion is the same, your picture shows it very clear. it will help, I guess. in my design there's also a piece in between the legs on the long side( in your picture like the coloured broad board, I don't know the right english word for it at the moment) but anyway, both your reactions do help me to go on. thanks again and perhaps we'll meet again,
kind regards,
ton wildeman
Sorry for the typo, "broad board" should have read "bread board" - a board with a groove down the edge that captures a tongue made in the short end of the main slab. You only need a bread board on the short ends because that's where the cross grain, and hence movement, is. The long sides will float due to the button attachment system and thus will not always be perfectly in line with the edge formed by the top of the leg - in summer an 1/8th inch proud and in the winter an 1/8th inch shy kind of thing. But that's the beauty of wood.
Post a pic of your table when you're done!
Edited 1/18/2006 3:26 pm ET by Samson
samson,
the idea of the breadboard is clear.
on the long end there will be also a board. in dimension like the breadboard. the design is that it will look if the tabletop is "catched" by four boards at all 4 sides between the legs and with the same width as the legs. so if the legs are 4 by 4 inch the breadboard and the boards on the long ends will also be 4 inch in width.
if I could draw as good as you can I would have done it, but unfortunately I've to do it by words..........
I"ll send you a picture, but have a bit of patience since I'll start before on one or two other projects.
ton
Should work out fine with the slab trapped by four edge boards. It could be especially striking depending on the speicies of wood you use and how they vary in color or grain patterns.
skoal!
Have a look at this -
http://www.crateandbarrel.com/family.aspx?c=881&f=6529
As I understand it this is the kind of table you are talking about, and the construction is completely conventional.
DR
thanks for showing to this exceptional method. I don't think to copy it, due to instability and cracking problems. anyway it's nice to have seen it. so far I'm working on the breadboard option.
kind regards,
ton wildeman.
LOL, yeah if "cracks and checks" are a selling point, no need to worry about a few more, or some gaps here and there, caused by wood movement!
But seriously, I guess it depends on what you're going for. If you want rustic, then some gaps where the top meets the legs are no big deal.
Thanks for the link.
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