Replies

1. 
   glasswd | Jan 03, 2007 08:28am | #1

   Hey bluedz, As an old retired plumber, it sounds as if those rear leveling legs may not be set right. In order to set(re-set) them, grab the top back of the machine tilt, lift and tilt the machine forward, 3 or 4ins. and let go. when it hits the floor those self levelers set themselves. You May have to do it more than once, but once usually does it. Then check for level. When they're not set the machine will wobble and dance right across the floor. If that doesn't do it, sometimes( if brand new) check to make sure the shipping rods  holding the drum in place may still be in there. You would have to remove the back panel to check. Good luck.

2. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 03, 2007 08:44am | #2

   Blue, you might try another forum :(Ask This Old House)

   Maybe you've overloaded the machine? Or, shifted the load off center? Inside the machine is a 'damping' mechanism. It is designed to counter balance the vibration. If my memory hasn't gone south, a spring loaded 'pad' presses on the drum tightly. The pad is made of Nylon and is able to slide but only unusual force of the drum allows it to slip or slide Some times, soap or detergent creeps under the pad and allows the damper to slide too easily. If that can't be corrected, you might attach four rubber 'snubbers' to the feet of the machine? I'm not sure if snubber is the right description but I've seen them used under heavy machines and air conditioning machines. Steinmetz.

1. 
   VTAndy | Jan 03, 2007 03:40pm | #3

   The machine isn't necessarily overloaded, it's just that the spin cycle on a newer front-loader is rather extreme -- that's the beauty of it. I'm thinking that you might try a material that will absorb the vibrations, like some kind of foam pad underneath -- the rubber feet sound like a start but might not be enough to absorb the vibrations. Making the floor stiffer underneath the machine might only serve to transfer the vibrations farther, since you'll never achieve absolute stiffness.
   Another thing to check: how is the water connected in back of the washer? If the hoses don't have enough slack, your pipes might be set in motion.

2. 
   kdrab206 | Jan 03, 2007 03:49pm | #4

   I bought a front load washer and dryer about 2 years ago and had the same problem.  When it went into the final spin cycle it would rock back and forth violently.

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   There were two screws on the front of the washer (tilt the washer back to access) that held the front access panel in place.  Remove the panel to gain access to the underside of the washer tub.  I had (2) styrofoam blocks in there that were used to hold the washer drum in place during transport.  When the drum would spin at high speed it would bounce up and down on the styrofoam and cause the machine to rock.  I removed the styrofoam blocks and re-installed the access panel.  Fired the machine up and it barley moved at all.

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   Trevor

1. 
   bluedz | Jan 08, 2007 05:54am | #5

   Dear all,

   First of all, thanks to all of you for your helpful suggestions as to the taming of the front loading washer.  I did check for forgotten styrofoam packing, and while there was a few crumbs, it appeared that someone had removed it already.  So I accessed where the washing machine was located downstairs, and I was able to use 2 x 12's to brace the engineered joists, which were 20 inches on center.  I put the 2 x 12's perpendictular, and 12 inches on center and covered the area directly below the washing machine.  It did not remove the vibration/noise completely, but it did deaden it to a more acceptable level, according to my clients. 

   While this tactic worked well for this application, I know there are instantance were access to the floor joists form underneath is not possible.  Therefore I would recommend adding 2 sheets of 3/4 inch plywood or something to truely stiffen the flooring under th emachine itself.  I think the 20 inch OC joists made for more of a trampoline effect for the washer, thus generating more noise.

   Thanks!

   Dean