Replies

1. 
   famosrichit | Jan 29, 2003 08:01pm | #1

   You can either make a jig to use with our table saw.  You can do it with a jointer and stop block or you could plane it by hand.  I pefer to do it with the jointer.

   Here is a good link that will give you the basic idea.

   http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/nesttables/index2.html

   
   

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   Edited 1/29/2003 12:03:12 PM ET by FAMOSRICHIT

2. 
   billyg83440 | Jan 29, 2003 08:10pm | #2

   One way is to make a simple jig for the table saw.

   I'll attempt to post a picture here.

   The picture shows an adjustable tapering jig. A fixed angle jig can be made by cutting a notch in a piece of plywood then using this to push the leg through.

   Or, it can be done with a hand plane and a shooting board. Others can explain that better. I haven't actually done such a thing yet.

1. 
   JHRal | Jan 30, 2003 06:58pm | #7

   Thanks for the jig picture. A couple of questions: How is the sliding front stop anchored? And, why should the arms be 1/2 inch thicker than the leg?

1. 
   billyg83440 | Jan 30, 2003 07:52pm | #8

   Well, not my design, just one I saved to build one day.

   The sliding front stop works because you build a tapered piece, preferably of hardwood, say 2-3" long that slides in the dovetail. Then your stop block sits on top of this slider. I would put threaded inserts into the slider. Position the slider and tighten some wingnuts that go through the stop block and thread into the slider. This pulls the slider up against the dovetail, wedging it and holding the stop block in place.

   The obvious reason to build it a bit longer and taller then you think you'll need is, in case you're wrong. Also, it allows for your rear clamp to be indexed off the side of the jig to keep it from twisting (The rear block will be stepped so part of it hangs down the side of the taper jig). A bit taller insures the entire surface of the piece to be tapered is used to guide and clamp your part. Always a good idea. Plus, if you put your hand on top of the jig to push it, you are above the blade.

   This is a good design. It captures the wood, which is a big improvement on any other design I've come acrost. It does this by clamping it front and back.

   I would also make a hold down bracket, that could also ride in the dovetail slot. Perhaps two for longer legs to make sure it couldn't ride up the back of the blade.

   Personally, when/if I build this, I will reverse the design. It will be built on to the right side of a sled that rides in my saws left miter gauge. It will be attatched to the sled with slots so the distance from the blade can be varied. The sled will have handles built into it, so it won't use the fence at all. Then I can stand to the left of the saw, no saw table in my way, and easily use the jig.

   Still, I will only be adding to the picture I showed you. Not changing the basic design. It's a good one. I just have this inexplicable urge to complicate it.<g>

1. 
   JHRal | Jan 30, 2003 08:27pm | #9

   Thanks. I'm going to give it a shot, but not 'till Springtime since my "shop" is an unheated garage.  I'll let you know how I make out.

3. 
   BenM | Jan 29, 2003 09:23pm | #3

   You can do it with a handplane and it's dead simple.  Make a template of the leg; this will be the side or front view of the leg.  Take your leg, which will be perfectly square (if it isn't make it square), and trace the lines using the template on two opposing sides of the leg.  Plane to the line.  Use the template again to mark the other two sides and plane to the line.  You're done.  The most difficult part will be devising a method to hold the leg while you do the planing.

4. 
   jgaiennie | Jan 29, 2003 10:42pm | #4

   Jim,

   I've seen lots of legs that are too fat at the top.  Think slender.

   The easiest way I know of for a one table set up:

   1)  Cut your legs just long of finish length.

   2)  Rip down to finish upper dimension.  Surface plane if you plan to.

   3)  Cut to finish length.

   4)  If your taper is longer than your fence outfeed end, set up a temporary fence extension on your outfeed table to extend your fence so that as it is as long behind the blade as your taper will be.

   5)  Make a push block of some configuration with a spacer (thickness to be the amount of taper) between the very bottom end of the leg and the table saw fence.

   6)  Saw your legs.

   Method two - also easy:  Plywood sled with strip that rides in 3/4" slot on your table, and a stop block on top to hold leg.

   jdg

5. 
   KevinLBS | Jan 29, 2003 11:02pm | #5

   Jim-

   I can't imagine, if you describe yourself as a "rank amateur" that you're going to hand plane a tapered leg. I've only been doing this stuff for a couple years, but I only just bought my first hand planes.

   I remember my first time tapering a leg. I did it with a couple pieces of plywood glued together to make them thicker, cut those to the taper angle I wanted with a circular saw, and then stuck the leg to them with double sided tape before running through the table saw. It worked, but it wasn't the safest thing, and I threw away that jig right after.  Some woodworking stores sell a metal adjustable jig which I used after that and it looks like this:

   View Image

   but that thing scared the crap out of me- always seemed like the leg was right on the edge of flying up out of the jig and hurling itself across the room.

   Since then, I built a jig that is basically a plywood sled that runs against the fence. It is about 3' long and 16" wide. It's wide because there are permanently mounted clamps on it. It's adjustable, stable, and feels very safe. I'll try and get a picture of it when I get home.

   Kevin

6. 
   davamoore | Jan 30, 2003 02:10am | #6

   Jim, once I've marked the taper on the legs, I use the bandsaw to cut off the bulk of the waste, cutting just on the waste side of the line.  I then use the handplane to clean up the cut sides.

   Keep in mind, you don't want to complete the initial cut(s) the first time they're on the bandsaw, otherwise you'll cut off the markings for the second (third, etc.) sides.  For example, let's say you're just tapering the two inner faces.  You've marked those lines, now you're cutting the first side on the band saw, from the top (thickest) part of the leg, down.  Stop about 1/2-inch from completing the cut, then back out.  Turn the leg one quarter-turn and cut the second face.  You'll still be able to see your marking line because it won't have been completely cut off when you made the first cut.

   Complete the second cut, then go back and finish off the first.  Now you're ready to smooth with the handplane.  The same philosophy applies if you're tapering three or four (or more, I suppose) sides.

   David

   "The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad