Good Day,
I was just wondering whether anybody can give me some advice on how tight a tapered sliding dovetail joint should fit during dry fitting? The joint is approximately 7″ long, stopped, router cut with a shim of approximately 1/16″ on one side. since I face-jointed my boards by hand, they are within about 1/100″ in thickness; hence the tails are all different in width. One of the joints (I have four of them) fits what I would consider perfectly with one strip of green tape on the tail, no tape a bit loose. How much play do I have to give the wood (cherry in this case) to allow for glue-induced swelling?
Many thanks,
Lars
Replies
I'm puzzled by where the tape comes in. But when making these joints, I leave the "shelf" (or whatever) long, front and back, tap it home and then mark the width for cutting at this point.
Hope that helps.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
Thanks Mike,
the tape was just a test to see whether I needed a more substantial shim (i.e. fix) and is not meant to be part of the final product. Leaving the part long in the front is not really an option since it's a stopped joint. Plus, since it's my first time cutting this type of joint, I did not take the "trick" you mentioned into account...Cheers,Lars
"Leaving the part long in the front is not really an option since it's a stopped joint."
Well, depending on how your project is constructed, it may still be an option. The tail is cut back about a 1/2" so the last bit of shelf (or whatever) has no tail. That way, you slide the part until the joint is tight, and then trim the overhang, front and back. If there is some obstruction keeping you from sliding the shelf deeper (like a cab back), you can test fit, trim a bit from the back edge, re-test, etc. until it's snug.
Of course, the limiting factor may be whether you have the extra width in your stock to allow this.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
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