Replies

1. 
   SantaFeTom | Aug 08, 2009 12:42am | #1

   I posted a the response below, thought more about the original message and concluded I really didn't understand how the technique would work. If you set the depth of cut to 1/2 the taper, run the piece through one way then the other you would just end up with a narrower leg. If you do what I describe below you would need to set the cut for the full taper, not 1/2 the taper, for it to work. Can anyone clarify this technique for me? My comments regarding depth of cut still hold.

   ...original post follows.... 

   That is an interesting technique and I had to draw it up to see how it would work. For it to work, you would stop the first pass at the mid-point of the piece. Then you would turn the piece around and hold the narrower end firmly against the jointer table as you made the second pass. The second pass would be for the full length of the piece. This means that 50% of the total length has to completely fit on the infeed table of the jointer or the technique won't work. Now to your actual question.

   In my experience, the wider the piece, the shallower the cut I can successfully make. A deep cut on a wide board can be somewhat violent as the blades try to push back the board. The less sharp the blades are, the more this is the case. The other problem with a deep cut is more risk for tear out.  The greatest risk for tear out is during the first pass because the cut will be more parallel to the grain. The second pass will be more into the grain lessening the risk of tear out. The second pass will also remove some of the tear out from the first pass. The closer to the end, the less tear out it can remove.

   I don't  really see as much of a safety issue as a quality issue. I think you will know right away at the beginning of the first pass if the cut is too deep and you may have to stop and switch to another technique. If the leg is really tapered or really long, I would not use this technique.

   
   

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   Edited 8/7/2009 5:52 pm ET by AustinTom

2. 
   bones | Aug 08, 2009 06:27pm | #2

   Take a look at this video and I think you will get your answers

   http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/jointer_to_taper_legs/

    

   I was married by a judge - I should have asked for a jury.
   George Burns

1. 
   whitedogstr8leg | Aug 08, 2009 08:18pm | #3

    I've done tapers on a jointer before.   I used the out-feed table as a starting point, and work my way up the leg while working back towards the infeed table.  A little "bite" each pass, next bite just a little more of the infeed table under the leg.  Last pass would be from the in-feed side all the way along the taper.  I found it much easier to "hog" most of the waste at the bandsaw and finish up with a plane, handplane that is.

1. 
   bones | Aug 09, 2009 03:54am | #6

   I do it that way as well.  Its quicker I think to draw it out get close with the bandsaw and finish with a few strokes of the LN.I was married by a judge - I should have asked for a jury.George Burns

2. 
   SantaFeTom | Aug 08, 2009 08:27pm | #4

   It's clear now. I was close. Thanks.

1. 
   bones | Aug 09, 2009 03:52am | #5

   No problemI was married by a judge - I should have asked for a jury.George Burns

3. 
   byhammerandhand | Aug 15, 2009 01:10am | #8

   PopWood had a recent article on 4 ways to cut tapers. On my last set, I used the one utilizing a planer. http://popularwoodworking.com/article/Tapered_Legs_On_A_PlanerIt worked sweet and very fast. I spent more time doing some 5" high legs using the "bandsaw and plane" technique than I did 29" table legs. In this method you use some scrap wood (e.g., 2x4) as a carriage for the planer. One pass on a table saw or band saw to rough it out and one pass on the planer and you're done.

   Edited 8/14/2009 6:12 pm ET by byhammerandhand

3. 
   clinton66 | Aug 13, 2009 04:53pm | #7

   Thanks for the advice. I used the jointer to taper and the legs turned out pretty nice for my first attempt. I learned that you have to think ahead if you are tapering more than one side so that you always have a straight edge to square up against the fence. The major drawback to this method in my opinion is that if you have a steep grain pattern, you might get some tearout due to the fact that you are taking a big bite and have to feed the leg from both directions to get the taper. I think sharp jointer knives and a slow feed rate will lessen this but if I had a leg with a swirling grain pattern I think I would use the bandsaw and handplane.