Replies

1. 
   dkellernc | Dec 17, 2008 08:04pm | #1

   Depends - on the original maker, that is.  I've seen originals that are pinned through the top to the apron with wooden pegs (these tops seem to always include a split from shrinkage), and period "pocket screws", where a large gouge was used to create a pocket on the underside through which a large screw was driven into the underside of the top.  Despite the restriction in the top's movement, I've seen a few of these with this method of attachment that are not split.  Finally, I've also seen tables where the top was simply nailed on through the top into the apron, with no effort used to hide the nail heads (these were probably originally painted).

   The modern method of using wooden buttons and screws in a slot to allow for wood movement is not something I've seen on original tables, but I've seen authors report that there are such pieces in existence.

2. 
   joinerswork | Dec 17, 2008 09:53pm | #2

   Sedge,

   In addition to dkellernc's suggestions, I've also seen tops that were glue-blocked on from underneath.  Like the pegs thru the top or nails, this usually means that top will have a split, or the blocks will break loose with movement.  But, also, it was not uncommon to pin tops to the apron thru a pair of battens applied to the underside of the top, as below.

   Ray

   
1. 
   dkellernc | Dec 18, 2008 12:13am | #3

   Yeah, I'd forgotten about the battens - they were on quite a number of tavern tables I've seen, though not on the "butterfly" tavern tables.  I'm not sure why this is, but very, very few of the tables I've seen have been of this design.  It shows up in magazine articles so much that you'd think it was the most common form out there, but apparently not (unless they've all been spirited away by collectors).

2. 
   Floss | Dec 18, 2008 02:05am | #4

   Ray,I don't mean to nit-pic but your photo seems to be that of a "Hutch Table", not a tavern table.What I have seen referred to as a tavern table is a simple base with turned legs which are splayed. Usually with stretchers and a fixed top which is either round, square or rectangular.F.P.S. wink-nudge

1. 
   Sedgewick | Dec 18, 2008 07:43am | #5

   Aright, I think I will use either the peg, or nail methods. One technical question I have however, is how I should join the ends of the table top to the frame so that when the wood expands the top will not buckle or crack?

1. 
   dkellernc | Dec 18, 2008 06:35pm | #7

   Sedge -  By definition, either the wooden peg method, or to a lesser extent, the nail method will fix the top to the aprons, and will not allow for seasonal wood movement.  Eventually, it's likely that the top will crack. 

   Much 18th century furniture, particularly utilitarian furniture, was made without regard to wood movement.  That's a conceit we've developed in the modern age, and has a lot to do with an unconscious expectation that furniture be "perfect" - i.e., the product of a factory with uniformly smooth an finished surfaces.

   For the most part, cross-grain construction that results in cracks and splits doesn't typically threaten the usefulness or structural integrity of the piece, though there are exceptions.  In this case, a cracked top doesn't hurt the usefullness of the table as a table, though it may violate modern societies' definition of "quality".

   If you don't want the top to crack, you will need to use a modern attachment method, of which there's a lot of options.  One of the most expedient would be to use "figure 8" metal fasteners, though the wooden button in slot mortises in the apron is a bit more elegant.  Neither solution will be seen unless someone flips the table over.  If you want to get sneaky about it, you can have your cake and eat it to - got to Rob Millard's blog entry about "Period glue blocks without the period problems" for an explanation.

1. 
   TaunTonMacoute | Dec 19, 2008 02:43pm | #8

   I am reminded of an old Gene Landon article from the black and white days, Landon looks like he's in his thirties, when asked about tradtional methods of joinery and the liability of parts to develop cracks, he said "it delights me when they crack, makes them more authentic" or very similar words.

    

    

2. 
   dkellernc | Dec 19, 2008 05:16pm | #9

   Yep - That was a pretty accurate quote - your memory is a lot better than mine. ;-)

   His article is reproduced in Fine Woodworking on Making Period Furniture.  One of the more amusing comments in that article was his wood storage solution - dumped in the mud and rain of his driveway!  I do have stacked, stickered, and tarped mahogany outside, but I doubt many of us would just throw $9/b.f. cherry on the ground until we got around to using it a year later...

   To the OP - Here's a link to Rob Millard's blog about the false glue blocks intended to look authentic, but without cracking the top.  Not my cup of tea, but it's pretty clever nonetheless:

   http://rlmillard.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/04/false-glue-bloc.html

3. 
   Sedgewick | Dec 19, 2008 07:28pm | #10

   Thanks for everyones help.

2. 
   joinerswork | Dec 18, 2008 04:41pm | #6

   Hi Floss,

   Pick away.  It is not a hutch table (at least by my definition) in that the top is not intended to fold up against a wall. 

   I've seen any number of small tables, such as this one referred to as tavern tables. If it is small enough to be easily moved about, with a generous overhang on the top, I believe it would qualify.  Your description is certainly the archetype, and perhaps the one now in my shop ought to be called a kitchen table or worktable.   My intent was to show the top attachment method, not illustrate a typical design.

   I may be all wet, but the removeable top seems to have been more popular in PA and points south than in New England.

   Ray