Replies

1. 
   DonStephan | Feb 17, 2012 08:26pm | #1

   Myt experience is that finish quickly clogs sandpaper.  Also, that much sanding is more likely to leave an uneven surface.  True a lower sheen finish will be less likely to highlight the unevenness, but . . .  Also, teak is more difficult to sand because the oily dust sticks to the wood remaining, the sandpaper, . . .  Teak also is very abrasive on cutting edges such as planers and jointers, saw blades, hand planes, and such.

   You might consider trying a stripper on the finish.  I've heard though that some of the "state of the art" finishes (2K?) are extremely resistant to strippers. 

   This ia a really big table - will you have help in the workshop to turn the table? 

   Twere me, I'd break my arm and plead diminished capacity.

2. 
   roc | Feb 18, 2012 01:30am | #2

   Oh That's Easy

   Get everyone together for one of those bonding "activities".

   Hand out scrapers to all.

   Teach them how to use the scrapers and then you "monitor" their progress.

   Who ever learns how to turn a decent bur first gets to go home.

   The rest have to stay until the surface is free of finish.

1. 
   user-64052 | Feb 18, 2012 03:50am | #3

   more than likely

   a veneer top. sounds like your advise could finish it off.(construction looks funny to be solid whatever it is)

   I have never seen teak sapwood before?????????????

   ron

3. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 18, 2012 05:44am | #4

   This table looks a heck of a lot more like cherry than teak.  And,  while the wood looks like a glue up from solid boards, the construction, with cross grain connections doesn't look it would work with solid wood for very long without some pretty fancy internal fastenings that let the width of the top move relative to the cross grain boards.  Is there any chance at all that the top, other than the ends, has a veneer surface. 

   What is the history of this table.  Does it come from a factory?  Is there a manufacturer's label or brand on the underside?  For that matter it's hard to see why the table really needs refinishing.  Are there rings from coffee cups or the like that the photo doesn't show?  How long has it been since it was finished or last refinished.  Why is the boss considering having an amateur refinish the table? 

   Is the table going to leave the boardroom, and if not how long will you have to work on it undisturbed.  How is the ventilation in the room?   Does it come apart? 

   In general sanding or scraping is a poor way of preparing furniture for refinishing.  Generally it is better to use chemical stripper, but you can't use methyle chloride stripper in a poorly ventilated space. 

1. 
   swenson | Feb 18, 2012 08:31am | #5

   Movement

   At 1000% zoom-in on the left edge there seems to be no movement between the breadboard end and the table top, yet moving upward to the first cross grain board there is quite a notch.  Could the sections of the table be separate? 

1. 
   BURNiNATOR | Feb 18, 2012 11:55pm | #6

   Hello All!

   Thanks for the info so far.  Let me see if I can answer as many questions as possible.  I beleive the table is quite old.  Our company is over 90 years old and I think this table has been with us for many of those years.  The president told me it was teak, and if you look at the verticle edges, it does look like teak.  I also had a friend of mine (who's run a woodshop for years) come take a look at it, and he agrees it is teak.

   No it is not a veneer, as the under side of the table looks like the opposite side of the board above it.  The table is in sections and will come apart at the sections where the grain is perpendicular to the 3 large sections.  They are joined together with a mortise but they are not glued together.  There are lag bolts underneath in the supports that hold it together.

   I have looked underneath and have not seen any markings or tags.  I plan to remove the table portions themselves and refinish them off site before  reassmbly.  I understand that this table was refinished 10-15 years ago, but it has seen some abuse since then.

   View Image

1. 
   BURNiNATOR | Feb 19, 2012 12:43am | #7

   OK, so this takes me back to my original question.  Irregardless of how I remove the old failing finish, what is the best, most durable satin finish to reapply?  I am not biased to water- or oil-based products.

   Also, what are some suggestions for a stripper?

1. 
   user-64052 | Feb 19, 2012 01:31am | #8

   a question

   how come you are going to refinish it when you don't appear to know what to do. sounds like your boss is perhaps a cheap bastard or just ignorant

   ron

2. 
   Westchester | Feb 19, 2012 01:11pm | #9

   Procedure

   What I would suggest given limited experience =

   Strip finish - scrubbing with steel wool # 2 and a methylene chloride product - need gloves, mask and ventilation.

   Thorough wash with lacquer thinner.  Maybe enough natural color - so staining remains open question.  Sealer = oil based gloss varnish 1/2 thinned with turps - wipe on with rag two light coats to seal. Sand between with 400 -  Followed by two full gloss varnish coats applied with the grain using a sponge brush.  Rubbing to satin after 1 week dry time   = # 4 steel wool and wool lube - and than tell the boss you want a bigger office !

   SA  

3. 
   BURNiNATOR | Feb 19, 2012 09:55pm | #10

   Thanks for all the help and suggestions.  It is appreciated.

4. 
   GretchenTHE FIRST | Feb 20, 2012 08:00am | #11

   I agree with the above strip and clean off the stripper. Be SURE about that.  I think a beautiful non-glossy finish could be achieved by wiping on a NON-poly varnish thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits. For a tabletop, at least 8 coats, lightly sanding between the 3rd and 6th. They dry quickly so even two applications may be made in a day. They do not need to be totally dry/cured before applying the next.

   After stripping, if you wipe the wood down with mineral spirits you will see the color the piece will be with a clear finish, and can decide about the need for a stain at that point.

4. 
   roc | Feb 21, 2012 12:05am | #12

   I think it is pretty clear that my comment was for comic relief

   from my line :

   Who ever learns how to turn a decent bur first gets to go home.

   but for those who took it seriously let me say . . .

   :   )

   PS: mopping a table that size with a great deal of real ( potent ) lacquer  thinner . . .

   not only DOES NOT SOUND LIKE A GOOD TIME ( damaging to your health and anyone in the area )

   but

   can be EXPLOSIVE in anything less than a professionally set up shop.  If you don't have that you better do this outside well away from any ignition source such as a simple electric light switch.

   THINK .

   PPS: Out side in February, mopping with a solvent that evaporates as fast as lacquer thinner, even with gloves ( obviously ) will remove heat from your hands so fast it will be like putting your hands in a freezer.  In addition chemical reaction between the solvent and the stripper what have you is going to be so slowed down by the cold ambient temp it may be ineffective at removing the stripper or cleaning the wood.

1. 
   GretchenTHE FIRST | Feb 21, 2012 09:34am | #13

   Easily solved for the lacquer thinner. I use mineral spirits for stripper clean up.  And no, it couldn't be done outside in a cold climate because the stripper won't work effectively either.

   But mineral spirits/paint thinner is a good solvent for cleaning up.

2. 
   Westchester | Feb 21, 2012 01:15pm | #14

   Cleaning

   Roc -

   I mention lacquer thinner because it is an oily wood -  also need ventilation which was stated.  A rag wet with thinner and used to scrub isn't risky - burninator needs 2 oz to clean that table -

   SA

1. 
   roc | Feb 23, 2012 03:29am | #15

   2 oz (? )

    >burninator needs 2 oz to clean that table<

   Oh good.  I was picturing like a half a gallon and several large rags.

   You know . . . that little table looks deceptively large in the photograph.  I would have sworn it was long and wide and stuff.

   Huh.

1. 
   Westchester | Feb 23, 2012 03:24pm | #16

   Economizing

   Roc,

   Yes it's a big table but you don't pour on the thinner.  Better to wet a rag and scrub - then do it again if need be.  Never exposing the conference room to a large solvent release at one time.  An oz or two at a time - go over it couple of times and I don't believe you're creating a dangerous situation.  I do agree with your questioning this so Burninator should be concerned and listen to your advice and proceed with care - common sense is important throughout - all these products have stuff in them that can hurt you !

   SA