Replies

1. 
   ABenker | Nov 10, 2003 05:19pm | #1

   I used teak oil made by Behlen's. It is for a desk type counter top in a kitchen and has held up well.

   Aaron

1. 
   CharlieM | Nov 10, 2003 05:42pm | #2

   Watco Oil provides a nice finish for teak.  I don't know about how it would work if food touches the counter top.

2. 
   VeniciaL | Nov 10, 2003 06:11pm | #3

   Mongo,

   I think you will come to hate this counter top. If you don't, you have MUCH more tolerance than I. I've been there! Other than as an unused demonstration of workmanship, the surface will be impractical on just about every characteristic needed for a kitchen counter.

   Anyway, I advise against any finish other than mineral oil. You are describing a very toxic situation using anything else and especially with the frequency that you anticipate refinishing that food-preparation nightmare of a work surface.

   Good luck!

   VL

3. 
   KyleZ | Nov 10, 2003 06:42pm | #4

   Mongo,

   Mineral Oil blended with beeswax would probably give you what you want.

   Kyle

1. 
   Mongo | Nov 11, 2003 04:12pm | #5

   Thanks to all for the feedback.

   First I think I'll have them try a few more applications of mineral oil. If that doesn't provide a better finish, then it'll be Kyle's recommendation of adding beeswax.

   Kyle, do you have any specific recommendations regarding the oil/wax? Oil:wax ratio, warmed before application, treatment between coats, number of coats, buffing out, etc? Any details would be appreciated. Thanks.

   If all else fails, then I'll likely have the finisher go with something like a Waterlox finish, which, while not a #1 choice, is eventually foodsafe and supposedly a bit more durable.

   Ah...the pleasures of working with wood!<g> 

1. 
   VeniciaL | Nov 11, 2003 07:56pm | #6

   Mongo,

   Oil/wax mixtures are not at all critical. The Sam Maloof mixture is equal parts linseed and tung with shredded beeswax added to the consistency of heavy cream. The mixture is heated on an electric double boiler (outside) until the wax melts then allowed to cool. It's used cold and rubbed vigorously with rags.

   There are several negatives to the Waterlox. 1. It is very expensive for nothing but a tung oil/varnish preparation. 2. Being a varnish, it will give a nice surface sheen as the film builds. But this film will be very thin, will be instantly broken with any use of the top and wil require constant reapplication. Stay with oil and wax.

   VL

1. 
   Mongo | Nov 11, 2003 08:24pm | #7

   Clear, concise, and articluate reply. I'm trying hard to stay away from a film finish, thanks for the encouragement.

   Mongo

1. 
   Tao | Nov 12, 2003 05:00am | #8

   Mineral oil doesn't dry, so I think you might have trouble getting anything to stick over it, and I doubt you'll be able to get it out of the wood.  You might be stuck.

   Test anything you consider using on scrap with the same amount of oil on it.

   I had good luck with Behlen's salad Bowl finish on a couple of cutting boards I made for my wife years ago.  It's some kind of wiping varnish, I guess -- goes on easy.  I use the boards all the time and wash them in the sink, and they look great except for the knife marks...... 

   In my youth, when they still allowed wooden work surfaces in commercial kitchens, wood surfaces never were finished.  We'd just wash them down thoroughly and scrub them with salt.   'Course they didn't look too great..............

   It's interesting that fairly recent tests have shown wooden cutting boards to be more sanitary than plastic ones.  Seems most woods are naturally antimicrobial, while it's almost impossible to get all the organic matter out of the knife marks on the plastic boards.

   Michael R.