Replies

1. 
   gulfstar | Jul 05, 2024 12:41pm | #1

   Teak oil is a generic term that could be a mixture of different ingredients, what brand did you use ?

1. 
   Kcoba | Jul 05, 2024 05:18pm | #5

   Watco teak oil finish

2. 
   pantalones868 | Jul 05, 2024 02:23pm | #2

   What product you used would be good to know. Many products are basically linseed oil with little to no teak oil at all. A pure oil and in particular linseed oil can take days(and days) to dry. Some of your problem might be put down to impatience. A) Teak is naturally oily . B) you added oil ...your time line is way off. Let it sit and quit messing with it. But....
   To my thinking you don't want to ( or didn't want to) oil it. Teak is a naturally oily wood and doesn't require finishing at all, think boat decks. It will lose its color exposed to light or weather and time. Cleaning,sanding and oiling will bring back that golden color but so will just cleaning ,sanding. An applied oil will evaporate and in that process actually take some of the teaks natural oil with it. Most " teak" oils will on exterior applications actually darken / blacken over time and actually create a medium for the growth of mold. What you want to do is clean / sand/ or even scrape the surface and apply a teak "SEALER" and not many paint or hardware stores carry it because the teak oiling myth is so wide spread, gives a quick easy result that looks good for a time. Marine supply stores will however carry it. On teak for a hardened bright furniture / bright boat finish I have always used varnish and prefer Epiphanes or Tonkinois and have found that some of those hardware store ,Helmsman etc. to be BS. Varnishing is many coats and many days however. I varnish teak, thats me, but a high quality quicker and easier finish like an offering from maybe General Finishes would give you a good hardened top coat.. or maybe just the sealer would be enough for you.

3. 
   _mj_ | Jul 05, 2024 02:36pm | #3

   What kind of wood is the table? There are open-pored woods that can take in a remarkable amount of oil that will stay liquid for what seems like forever.

4. 
   jharveyb | Jul 05, 2024 03:37pm | #4

   Applying too much oil too quickly does in fact prevent the oil from hardening properly. Your impatience caused you grief. My partner and I learned this the hard way many years ago when he applied two heavy coats of a dark oil stain in quick succession. The stain stayed gummy for weeks. It was June but we had to fire up the shop wood stove for several weeks to get it to finally harden. I would recommend that you wait a few weeks with it in a warm, dry place to see if it hardens.
   With oil finishes, many have been thinned with solvent, which evaporates quickly, so they seem dry. However, what needs to happen (and takes the time) is for the oil to absorb oxygen and harden (polymerize).

1. 
   davidweaver | Jul 06, 2024 02:08pm | #9

   the solvent is added to polymerized oils because they won't flow if they are 100% oil. agree with the rest. Eventually the oil will harden, and the posts online about things like tung or other drying oils never hardening are false. However, you can certainly make it so they take a very long time to harden.

   I have bought a fair amount of good quality raw tung oil in the last year and made some varnish with it, but tested the oil itself in terms of how it dries and how hard, etc. I have no idea what the advantage of polymerized is supposed to be except it dries a little faster. it costs more to get a pint of oil solids in the polymerized stuff than it does to get a gallon of raw tung oil from Jedwards. And the tung oil responds just fine to 1% japan drier if it needs to dry deep into wood. No sitting around breathing solvent evaporating in the shop, either.

5. 
   gulfstar | Jul 05, 2024 07:31pm | #6

   According to the technical datasheet, it’s a blend of oil (likely linseed) rosin and mineral spirits. Prety much your danish oil recipe. Needs to be left to penetrate half hour, whipe and wait till dry for the next coat. I don’t think they extract oil from teak, neither Danish, never seen it.

1. 
   davidweaver | Jul 06, 2024 01:44pm | #8

   it is, but a rosin ester. It's probably a long oil attempt at an ester varnish, but as far as I know, the ester varnishes that are waterproof have at least some tung oil.

   to the original poster - calm down and take your time. No matter what you have, you can get a durable finish by waiting for it to cure, segregating it from the top coat with dewaxed shellac and applying something that is temperature and water resistant.

   Of the others you mention, epifanes is pretty harsh stuff indoors, and helmsman isn't really a very good quality finish and isn't hard. A simple thinned polyurethane wiped over shellac would probably make for good durability and solvent cleaner (mild bleach, etc) tolerance.

1. 
   gulfstar | Jul 07, 2024 10:37am | #10

   Mostly linseed oil and naphta, https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/A67141.pdf?_gl=1*1tjpwvi*_ga*MjAxODk3OTE3Ni4xNjQ1NDgxOTkw*_ga_ET73R380KW*MTcyMDM2MjczMy41LjAuMTcyMDM2MjczMy42MC4wLjA.

1. 
   davidweaver | Jul 07, 2024 02:45pm | #11

   So, the linseed oil is in the ingredient list with a rosin esther. What the SDS doesn't tell us if whether the linseed oil and rosin are cooked together to make a long oil varnish, or if they are separate parts and the rosin is in the oil to make it more glossy looking when it dries. Typically, they would be cooked together in a varnish, but rosin ester makes a far better varnish with tung oil, but it's probably harder to make (tung is reactive at high temperatures) and tung oil costs more.

   Stoddard solvent and naptha are there in combination, and why mineral spirits is separate, i don't know, they're all three kind of the same thing just at different volatilities (how fast they eveporate). Things put together in parts may be mixed together - stoddard solvent and naphtha was pretty common in combination in polyurethane and probably what's still in the general finishes high dollar polyurethane that has a name that escapes me.

   if they had linseed oil and rosin ester together, though, and didn't cook them into a varnish, I'd be surprised. The rest of the solvents in little bits, no clue - chemistry is over my pay grade. The zirconium is probably a dryer though.

   I don't see any teak!! but I don't see any tung listed in some "tung oil finish" products, either. At $30 a gallon, it could add a buck or two to a $20 per quart finish and that's not the way production, distribution and retailing works in the states now.

   My guess is varnish with twice as much oil as rosin ester, somewhere around 35% total solids, maybe slightly more, and the rest solvent. A long oil varnish that sort of goes on like an oil and will penetrate some, but then dry and not look too dull.

1. 
   davidweaver | Jul 07, 2024 02:48pm | #12

   I'm game for someone asking them if it's a long oil true varnish and seeing if they'll answer. it might even say that in a product data sheet. People like the sound of oil finishes when a can says it's an oil finish like "antique oil", but I think they like those finishes better when they're actually a varnish instead of a drying oil only. I have a quart of teak oil that I used at someone's suggestion on tools a long time ago. I cannot remember anything about it that was worth remembering.

6. 
   stantheman | Jul 06, 2024 07:06am | #7

   So what does he do now? Strip it again and start over? I think a different topcoat is in order.