Replies

1. 
   Dunwright | Aug 09, 2005 03:06am | #1

   It's not you, there is most likely an opening in the fence behind the stock. To eliminate the tear-out on the 2x4, slip a 1x between it and the fence.

2. 
   Steve50 | Aug 09, 2005 05:14am | #2

   I take a piece of 1/2" MDF and use double stick tape to stick it to the back fence.  I also took a piece of 1/4" melamine and made a new insert.  The first time you cut through this, it becomes a zero clearance insert and you will get no tearout.  Also, you have an instant location of exactly where the blade will cut.

   The only downside to this is when you move the saw to a miter position, the backer board gets cut wider.

   Steve

3. 
   Walker1 | Aug 09, 2005 05:45am | #3

     I have the Dewalt CMS 703 as well. It was a good choice, I'm very happy with mine. It runs 5000 rpm., which is higher than most, and helps reduce tearout. It will cut 4x4,s and 2x6's,some CMS's wont, and it's very strong and accurate.

             As far as tearout goes, the blade determines how much tearout. A forty tooth blade will give you twice as much tearout as an 80 tooth, but not all blades are created equal. For example a Forrest 80 tooth blade will almost completely eliminate tearout in most cases.(An expensive blade, but worth every penny I recently discovered).

          But when absolutely no tearout is necessary, you must back up the piece you are cutting with a piece of wood that fits very tightly against it.

               Cheers.                            Walker1

    

                         

4. 
   forestgirl | Aug 10, 2005 07:51pm | #4

   You've gotten the two sources of your problem explained above:  (1) the blade and (2) lack of a backer board.  Generally, the stock blades that come with table saws and miter saws are of marginal quality.  A Forrest (if you can afford it) or a Freud Diablo (if money's a little tight) of the right configuration will help tremendously!  If you need model info on the Diablo, which is sold at Home Depot, the 1060S (60-tooth) is the thin-kerf 10" blade; the 1060X is the 10" full-kerf blade.  For an 80-tooth blade, it would be D1080X (full-kerf).

   Based on Charles (from Freud) advice to me the other day, I suspect he'd suggest the 60-tooth blade for your saw.  I'm sure he'll pitch in here if I'm wrong!  I just bought the 12" version, but haven't put it on yet.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

5. 
   samwoody2 | Aug 10, 2005 08:44pm | #5

   thank y'all...I'll use your suggestions and eliminate the problem.

   Samwoody2

6. 
   4DThinker | Aug 11, 2005 11:05pm | #6

   Everyone is right.  To get a clean cut you'll need a zero clearance fence behind the work.  Sometimes you need a zero clearance bottom plate too.  The simplest way to do the fence is to use a thin piece of scrap attached on both sides of the fence, then cut through it.   Some fences have holes you can screw through to attach the scrap.  Another way is to use double-sided tape.  If it's just one cut then you don't even have to attach the scrap, just have it behind your piece when you make the cut.

   Lastly, changing to a better blade may help.  I just bought a new twin-laser Porter Cable miter saw, and immediately replaced the included 40 tooth blade with an 80 tooth Frued.  I'm making cuts in composite decking and railing and need very smooth cuts.  The 80 tooth blade worked wonders.

7. 
   WillGeorge | Aug 12, 2005 09:52pm | #7

   Just me so do not get mad.. Tear-out on a 2X4.. Why would that matter?

8. 
   kenshep | Aug 13, 2005 02:24am | #8

   Hi Sam,

     You can score the back of the board you are cutting on the cutline with a utility knife to keep the blowout from happening.  You have to cut right up to the line though.

   Ken

    

   Regards,

   Ken

   "Do as you would be done by." C.S. Lewis