Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Jul 08, 2007 06:37am | #1

   Sounds like you had a 'catch' and didn't get it all out. It's also possible the wood had a defect or soft spot. Depending on the species, summer growth can be soft and tear, a grab with the turning tool or one that has lost it's edge can put a deep mark in the piece. You may have to cut 1/16" or deeper to get it out, sanding or scraping. You should have a nice, smooth, continuous cut across the surface while turning. Any chattering or little digs wil put a "wahoo" it the work.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   MikeMD | Jul 09, 2007 05:43am | #4

   definitely not a catch, it's a grain issue.  I think my tool choice/technique needs to be refined.  I just thought that as a beginner extra time/care sanding and finishing would offset some of this.

    

   MIKE

2. 
   oldusty | Jul 08, 2007 06:55am | #2

     Hi MikeMD ,

                       The tear out may be occurring in the end grain of the stock you are using , with  what wood do you notice this ?

   The orientation of the grain and how you cut the blank out can affect the amount of end grain and the correct cutting edge to do the job helps . That's another thread , no 2 or 3 of us can agree on scrapers or no scrapers or gouges or not ? What ever works best for you is best .

                       good   luck                     dusty

      

1. 
   MikeMD | Jul 09, 2007 05:48am | #5

   I'm a beginner so this is only my second bowl.  It happens to be walnut, and it's definitely a grain issue.  I need to improve my tool choice and technique.

    

1. 
   oldusty | Jul 09, 2007 06:57am | #6

          MD ,

                   Edge sharpness and properly sharpened tools can make a tremendous improvement in the end .

        You can't change the characteristics of the medium but you can make your task easier simply by using sharp tools .

      Whether it's a chisel , or a lathe tool or even a circular saw blade , when their dull nothing seems to work right .

       Also you can glue up stock to suit your needs and a world of patterns and color combinations can be created .

                                  regards                dusty

2. 
   Napie | Jul 09, 2007 05:59pm | #7

   What type of bowl gouge are you using and how is it ground?  Are you rubbing the bevel?  At the bottom of most bowls you need to use a very strong and heavy scraper with a shearing cut to get a smooth finish. 

   <!----><!----> <!---->

   Or, just grind it into submission starting with 40 grit……

1. 
   MikeMD | Jul 09, 2007 09:21pm | #8

   I'm new at this so I've been using a standard Robert Sorby bowl gouge.  I need to get a medium fingernail grind bowl gouge as well as more scrapers.  Here's a sample of my work.

   
1. 
   Napie | Jul 09, 2007 09:53pm | #9

   No need to buy a new gouge, just regrind the one you have to a fingernail profile.  As to scrapers, I like the ones Richard Raffen has, very thick, almost no chatter even a long way from the tool rest.

3. 
   lwilliams | Jul 08, 2007 06:57am | #3

   180º from each other suggests this is likely where you're cutting/scraping against the grain. Start with improving tool sharpness and try cutting if you're scraping. Experiment a little with lighter finish cuts or other techniques that avoid tearing the grain.

4. 
   BruceS | Jul 10, 2007 02:41am | #10

   Some lumbers used in bowls just arn't fond of end grain turning as you know by now with the 180 deg rough spots.   My solution for those lumbers is what some call shear scraping.  I use a deep bowl gouge that has a pretty big side grind and roll that edge down pretty far , almost to the point of touching the opposite side.  Using the lightest of touch, just shear scrape the bowl till you just get "Angel hair" scrapings.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   wku | Jul 13, 2007 05:09am | #11

   Mike,

   BruceS nailed the solution to the tearing problem on the head!

   I usually turn walnut. Walnut will tearout at perpendicular turning profiles with the sharper, more production efficient angles. However, by flattening the angle of the tool while turning you will minimize and hopefully eliminate tearout - even with a less than sharp tool.