Can I use a 3/4″ straight bit with 1/2″ shank in a guide bushing with a 25/32″ ID? I have the sub base plate on the router centered, but that only leaves 1/64″ all the way around the bit looks awfully close to me, maybe I should try to drill the guide bushing out to 7/8″. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
I do it all the time. Assuming your router and the bit (1/2" shank!) are both in good shape, and you've accurately centered the baseplate, you should be fine. If you're putting so much stress on the router that the bit can deflect 1/64", you're (a) a stronger man than I, and (b) pushing too hard. ;-)
It is my impression that the ability to use a 3/4" bit is the whole reason that the ID of the bushing is 25/32".
-Steve
Thanks for the reply.
You're asking a lot. Any cutter deflection and you eat some steel. Any eccentricity in collar, cutter or subbase, or something loosens up you eat some steel. Use an up cut spiral and you'll jam the cutter and maybe unwind the collar.
Does not press my luck.
I have the sub base plate on the router centered, but that only leaves 1/64"
I would say as others probably will. If any clearance that allows the bit to 'start' you now have one that fits .. :>)
I would just see if the bit turns freely before starting the router.
EDIT:
I just saw Routermans post. He does have a point. However, I DO check my bushings often to see if one has loosened up a bit. I use the brass ones and they sometimes WILL!
Edited 4/16/2009 5:37 am by WillGeorge
My brass ones would loosen until I slipped a skinny O-ring (from a plumbers pack, I don't know the specs) on the base of the male piece. Oddly enough, the cheap steel ones have never loosened. Somestimes have gotten tighter!
I have the bit centered (the best I can under one of those magnifying lights) and it turns freely, I also have had the brass guide bushings come loose during use in the past, I tighten the bushing up with a pair of channel lock pliers and check them regularly, so I should be good to go. I will try the set up out later today I have to cut some 3/4" dadoes for drawer slides in the carcass of some nightstands I'm working on.
Thanks to all that posted I thought the set up should be ok, I just wanted to here from some of you that have allot more experience than myself. Thank's again.
Edited 4/16/2009 9:46 am ET by mikeddd
There's a kind of cone-shaped centering device that you can use to help ensure that the baseplate is centered on the motor shaft. (I have no idea where I got the one that I use; it may have come with the router.) Anyway, it's in two parts, a 1/2" diameter steel shaft that you chuck into the router in place of a bit, and a plastic cone with a snug 1/2" hole in the middle. After installing the steel shaft, you loosen the screws holding the baseplate, then place the plastic cone onto the shaft, pointy end towards the router. As you slide it on, the sides of the cone eventually engage the sides of the hole in the baseplate, forcing the baseplate to be centered with respect to the shaft. You then tighten up the baseplate screws and you're good to go.
-Steve
I have the same device that you speak of, I belive I got it with a Dewalt router. Thanks.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled