Hi, I am template routing 2 3/4 white oak. I have a 3 HP Triton router in a table. I am using a Freud 1/2 shank, 3/4 w and 1 5/8 tall flush trim bit with 2 bearings.
I am practicing on test pieces that are 2″ thick. The bit has the top bearing removed and I am using the bottom bearing to ride the template. I am removing 5/16 and it is catching and tearing off chunky pieces. When the bit is that far out of the table and the wood is bucking a little it scares me. I am using push blocks.
I would like to take less off and make a couple of passes with more control but I can’t figure out how. Any advice?
Replies
Start at the bandsaw. Get as close as you can to the template without marking it. An upcut spiral bit would help.
5/16 is a heavy cut here. Here is a cool video on using your template at the bandsaw to get very close to the line: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xRKN-EJik-Y
That is more of a production technique and I’d probably just try to cut within 1/16 of the line if I’m doing a one-off. Good luck!
Paul, great YouTube video channel, maybe the best I have seen. I continue to practice this on white oak scrap. I am getting it down to 1/8 working toward 1/64. I own the Woodpecker jig he references and I am just learning to use it, obviously. I will continue to practice, I appreciate the advice.
Kurt
As the others have said, attempt to leave as little as possible around the outline of the shape you are cutting; like 1/32". That should eliminate the most of your problem.
You also need to be conscious of the direction of the cut versus the grain of the wood. It might not be a concern if you are only removing 1/32" but if you still have some issues, I'd suggest a little research. I think there are articles in the archives of FWW concerning grain direction versus rotation of the bit by Bob Van Dyke. There are likely to be others on other sites, including YouTube.
Hi, I am looking at the Bob Van Dyke articles, there are many. Thanks for the tip.
You need to change your bearing, ideally to ⅞"followed by ⅝" and finish with the standard bearing. Larger bearings reduce the cut you are taking to manageable amounts. Bearing sets are readily available just make sure they are compatible with your Freud bit and beware of some of the low quality parts available on Amazon and other places.
Scratch that. I thought your bit was ½" cutting diameter, while the theory is still sound I'm not sure you can find bearings to make that work with a ¾" cutting diameter. If you can go for it.
You are fighting against bit flutter here. The farther the cutting action (in this case the top 5/16" of the bit) from the support (the bearing and the shank where it enters the router collet), the more flutter. You need a more subtle approach:
1) Make sure your bandsaw work is optimum for closeness. The more wood to remove, the more stress on the bit.
2) Get a much shorter trim bit with a lower bearing. Maybe 3/4" cutting length, max of 1". Must have a 1/2" shank. The larger the cutting diameter, the less tear out when running against the grain. 1"D would be good.
3) Take less wood per pass; probably 3/16" is safer than 5/16". Experiment.
4) Trim only as deep as needed to leave what your current bit can trim with it's top bearing installed. When using the top bearing, the bit is supported at both ends, so there is much less tendency for bit flex and chatter. Look for a slightly oversize bearing for the first cut, and the 3/4" for the final cut. Note: the reach of your current trim bit is extended if you remove the bottom bearing. Then there is room between the bottom of the cutter and the top of the collet so a section can be left untrimmed after the first pass. The bit is then lowered and the lower part is trimmed, with the bearing riding on the surface you just created.
Also note: Repair any defects from the trimming with the bottom bearing, as any defects will be copied by the later trimming with the top bearing.
Also note: I think how you are trying to do it right now is dangerous. You are right to be scared.
If anything isn't clear, just ask.
Harvey
Harvey, that might be the best answer I have ever seen. You have obviously done a lot of this work. I have the Woodpecker template guide and I am practicing at both the bandsaw and router on scrap white oak. More practice needed but I am getting the hang of it, I will be happy at 1/16. Thanks again.
Kurt
Great info, all of you, I appreciate the detail and effort to be clear. I have adjusted my cut on the bandsaw down to about 1/8 scrap, much easier to take off. I am using a Woodpeckers bandsaw template guide, I learned how to adjust it and have also increased the blade tension which has helped with accuracy. I am on my third "practice" piece and it gets better/easier every time. I think I found a 7/8 bearing which allows me to take less per pass. I am also looking for an even bigger flush trim bit. These all make a difference and it feels much safer. You can feel unsafe.
An 1/8" is better, but I'd try to cut it to 1/32" to 1/16" from the cut line. That insures a much smoother cut and no stress on the router bit. Based on my experience, 1/32" is almost like cutting nothing with the router. It just feels safer and the result is better.
+1 on cutting very close to the line with bandsaw.
I would start this by putting the template on the bottom and use a 1" flush cut bit. Then switch to the tall bit & incrementally raise the router.
Oak is not the easiest to work with. A spiral bit it best.
Good idea, I am working with 2 3/4 stock so there is a lot of wood to remove.