Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | May 21, 2012 10:04am | #1

   tenoning jigs

   A tenoning jig is basically just a blockish sort of jig that will hold a piece upright, or at an angle, and pass it through the blade in an upright position. They track in the miter tracks in the TS, or along the fence, depending on the design. Solid support for the work piece and lateral adjustment ease are good traits to look for.

   The current Delta 34-184 is made overseas and is available from various sources. The same design is also available under different brands. ($105.99 at Amazon, higher elsewhere)

   http://www.amazon.com/DELTA-34-184-Universal-Deluxe-Tenoning-Jig/dp/accessories/B00006S7C7

   I have the old design Delta jig, which is much heavier (cast iron housing on a 3/8" steel plate - about 20 pounds, or so), but lacks the micro-adjustment on lateral positioning. These can be found used, but have acquired somewhat of a cult following, and command premium prices - often in the $300-$400 range.

   Note, too, that there are numerous plans floating around for making your own out of wood.

2. 
   SenorDorado | May 21, 2012 05:22pm | #2

   Thanks Ralph, looks like a good buy at a descent price.

     Not having used this jig I'm wondering how tight the miter gage fits the slot. If there is a little slop, what could I do about it?

   Senor Dorado

1. 
   wericha | May 21, 2012 08:04pm | #3

   Shouldn't be a problem

   It shouldn't be an issue.  Delta has used a standard size miter guage slot since the beginning of time.  If you do run into any play, just make it a habit to always keep pressure on the jig in the same direction and you'll defeat any slop.  It's actually a good practice to maintain even pressure whether or not any play exists.

1. 
   CharlieL | May 24, 2012 10:22am | #12

   I've seen better advise

   wericha wrote:

   It shouldn't be an issue.  Delta has used a standard size miter guage slot since the beginning of time.  If you do run into any play, just make it a habit to always keep pressure on the jig in the same direction and you'll defeat any slop.  It's actually a good practice to maintain even pressure whether or not any play exists.

   What ? Just leave the slop huh ? LOL There are several easy fixes for that.

1. 
   wericha | May 24, 2012 10:57am | #13

   Crawl outta the primordial ooze?

   [quote CharlieL]What ? Just leave the slop huh ? LOL There are several easy fixes for that.

   Hey Chuckie, glad to see you could stop by and enlighten use with your sage advise.  Oh wait, you didn't offer any advice.  Is this another one of those deals where FWW was too myopic to publish your work so you won't share cuz you ain't gettin' paid?  Can we work a package deal here where we can get both your tenoning jig expertise AND your cardboard and duct tape dust collection concoction for one low, low price?

   Can we get frequent flyer miles too?

1. 
   CharlieL | May 29, 2012 02:19pm | #16

   Gotta luv the continueing childish name calling

   wericha wrote: Hey Chuckie, glad to see you could stop by and enlighten use with your sage advise.  Oh wait, you didn't offer any advice.  Is this another one of those deals where FWW was too myopic to publish your work so you won't share cuz you ain't gettin' paid?  Can we work a package deal here where we can get both your tenoning jig expertise AND your cardboard and duct tape dust collection concoction for one low, low price?

   Can we get frequent flyer miles too?

   Growup.

2. 
   RalphBarker | May 22, 2012 09:33am | #4

   re: slop

   What "wericha" said.

3. 
   Don01 | Jun 05, 2012 10:16pm | #17

   Tenoning Jig

   I have one that I don't use. For my one project I found it clumbsy, almost dangerous. One day perhaps. The bandsaw does as good a job maybe better. There are lots of tips out there for micro adjusting the guide bar.

   Don

3. 
   Rob_Sp | May 23, 2012 04:21pm | #5

   Save your money for something useful

   Your tablesaw fence and a zero clearance plate will do nicely.

   Rob

1. 
   roc | May 23, 2012 09:07pm | #6

   To Rob and SenorDorado

   Ha, ha, ha, ha

   Or save even more money and forget the table saw.  Some situations it is just in the way.

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2657

   One of the best woodworking articles in existance if you ask me.

   Or make the jig you need

   http://www.amazon.com/Woodwork-Technique-Readers-Digest-Woodworking/dp/0762102284/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1337809869&sr=1-1

   This book is so into it he put the jig on the cover.

   Note the used price for the book is not expensive (just the new price)

   I made that jig.

   For making the runner in the slot run without play:

   For the home made jig you can plane the hard wood runner(s)(I like purple heart wood for the runners) to exactly fit the slots in the table saw with near zero play.  Rub on a bit of candle wax.  The PH wood is super hard and stable. A bit sticky though so the wax.  I have heard Teak is great for this application but haven't tried it.  Self lubricatiing and stable.

   For the sloppy old metal runners on the store bought Delta jig you can drill and tap the sides of the runner and add grub screws for adjustable nubs on the sides of the runner.  If you don't tap the holes very deep the screws will turn tight in the holes.  Or you can add blue or purple lock tight to the threads.  If you can't turn them years later just warm up the runner with a heat gun or some such.

   grub screws look like this ( once on this link page down )

   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grub_screw

   http://www.amazon.com/12mm-Socket-Set-Screw-Psck/dp/B0046IE7EW/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1337811096&sr=8-20

1. 
   Rob_Sp | May 23, 2012 09:08pm | #7

   Whats your point?

   Just to clairfy, mine is you need no jig at all. Run the blade through a zero clearance throat plate (you make these as well) and simply set the fence for the vertical cuts. I have taken this one step further and  use two blades with a spacer and shims in between to make both cuts in one pass. A "tenoning jig" whether store bought or shop made is a waste of time and resources. Sure there are times when hand work is required, I understand that, (see photo). For straight tenons a fence is all you need.

   
1. 
   roc | May 23, 2012 09:40pm | #9

   Some of us are just not as brave or skilled as you are.

   I to use the two blade set up.

   Kind of a hand full if something binds.

   Nice and secure or at least safer if work is clamped to a sled and a person is less close to the "action" if you know what I mean.

   Hey that is a nice chair !  Did you make that ?  I am impressed.

   There are things one can do with the sled/jig thing such as spacers for off set and angled.  Easy to go back and forth for multiples later which obviously is the whole point of the table saw and the jig.  Making lots of identical parts.

   I bet you will agree with me on at least one point . . .

   that

   one of the attractions of the Delta tenoning jig is that it is a big old impressive looking hunk of iron that looks like it ought be important to have. 

   :   )

2. 
   roc | May 23, 2012 09:14pm | #8

   Photos of miter gauge grub screw mod

   Easier said than done but not bad

   I decided to post a photo or two because the screws are off set toward the top of the table if you have T-slots and or just to make it a little more accurate.

   
4. 
   roc | May 23, 2012 10:44pm | #10

   Ah . . . guys . . .

   I misread the title of this thread.  Senor Dorado must be a surgeon looking for some sort of surgical device. Any medical people here that can help him out?  Could be a whole new category for this chat room.  "Saw bones" and all like that.

1. 
   wericha | May 24, 2012 09:29am | #11

   roc wrote:Or save even more

   [quote roc]Or save even more money and forget the table saw. Some situations it is just in the way.

   Heretic

   I wondered when somebody would catch the "tendoning" title.  I didn't think this was a surgical website.  ;{

   I like the idea of building my own jigs.  They are cheaper and probably work better anyway.

5. 
   Rob_Sp | May 25, 2012 08:33pm | #14

   Maybe Englich is his second language

   Give the guy a brake wood you.

   It's knot like  we all have not seen tinnin er... tennon,  tendon...whatever... mispeled 10,000 times on would working blogs in the past weak.How many times can you laugh at the same joak????

1. 
   roc | May 25, 2012 09:05pm | #15

   You're Right

    Goo poi ant

6. 
   wericha | Jun 06, 2012 12:26pm | #18

   FYI

   I picked one of these up at a garage sale the other day.  When I set it on my saw, PM2000, it wouldn't get close enough to the blade to do me any good.  I did a little research on these jigs that might help you.

   There have been 3 versions of this jig; 32-182, 34-183, and 34-184.  From what I can gather, 182 and 183 are virtually the same design while 184 is the "upgraded" version and is the current model.  The first 2 models seem to have a common complaint, that they "rock" on the table.  I can attest to that as the one I bought is the earlier version and does indeed rock a bit.  The earlier versions also did not make allowance for moving the guide bar, thus making them specific to Delta/Rockwell of that era.  Apparently all that has been addressed in the newest model.

   If you're really interested buying one, keep an eye on Craigslist.  In my area I see them fairly often and they have usually been reasonable deals.  Personally, I'd avoid ebay unless you can find one locally as these things are very heavy and shipping will cost you more than the thing is worth.  A good price for a used Delta in reasonable shape would be around $50.

7. 
   UnisawA100 | Jun 24, 2012 12:05pm | #19

   Gulf Wax

   You can take the slop out of the table slot with paraffin (Gulf wax in the canning aisle at the local Piggly-Wiggly/Ralph's/Buy-Rite/Krogers).  Basically it lines the sides of the slots and fills the voids.  After your first application run the gage in the slot a couple/few dozen times until it runs freely (it will be sticky at first).  After that you only need to re-apply ever so often/as required.