Replies

1. 
   Peter36 | Feb 28, 2005 06:30pm | #1

   Hi Mark. You have several options here. I built a Mission style hall table and I just sawed the tenons by hand. You could lay them flat on your tablesaw and use a dado blade, use a router-starting at the end and working your way to the shoulder, you could use a bandsaw with an extension table. What are you making it out of and what will your finish be?   Peter

1. 
   MarkRD | Feb 28, 2005 07:06pm | #2

   I'm using White Oak, and will darken the oak by fuming with ammonia vapor chamber (FWW 126, October 1997. pp. 46-49).The white oak came from a demolition in town (they tore down our 30 year old Highschool - a few weeks before demolition they let residents in to take what they wanted, I went straight for the stage and got several hundred board feet of oak planks some 3/4" other 1.5" some was framing the stage other trimmed the stage floor and front. Biggest piece was 15 feet by 6" by 1.5" and another 10' by 10" by 3/4". It's all finished on on side (urethane probably) so I can use the backsides or run it through my planer to take off the layer of finish (or possibly strip it with methlyne chloride - outdoors because I hate MECL)...Mark

2. 
   walnutjerry | Mar 06, 2005 05:25am | #3

   Hi Mark-----I just cut tenons on long boards today(aprons for a dining table) and I used the bandsaw. Just recently updated my band saw so I had to try it out. With a good blade and good set-up on a good machine it goes like a breeze. What do you have to work with?  There is usually more than one way to skin a cat!!  Careful layout and sharp tooling whatever the method is a common thread to them all.

                               Cheers, Jerry

1. 
   MarkRD | Mar 06, 2005 05:58pm | #4

   I have a delta 14". A router, table saw, chisels... the whole nine yards. I'm building another bow case for my son now then I'll move on to the sofa table...Thanks,Mark

3. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 09, 2005 05:57am | #5

   Peter36 has it..  sawed the tenons by hand.. File / sand whatever to fit...

4. 
   DougF | Mar 10, 2005 05:49pm | #6

   Mark,

   I've found that using a stack dado on my radial arm saw is virtually foolproof for cutting tenons of any size.  As long as the blade and table top are registered at 90 degrees, the tenor will be perfect over the entire length.  Obviously, cut the mortise first.  If you don't have a RAS, see if you can find someone who will let you use theirs for this project.  Cutting the tenons in a long board on a band saw can work if you provide a stable table and guide.  Be careful when backing out of a long cut.

   Doug

1. 
   cicero | Mar 22, 2005 10:12am | #7

   Digressing for a minute,what you all think of slot morticers.Just bought a Swedish one,but as yet have only used it for doweling?

1. 
   DougF | Mar 22, 2005 03:46pm | #8

   I've not used one.  I built a jig for my plunge router that works very well.  I can see the advantages of a morticer, particularly to do many mortices in arts and crafts style head and foot boards since you can establishing an index system to get every mortice equally spaced. 

   Doug

1. 
   cicero | Mar 22, 2005 07:49pm | #9

   Do you see them in USA?.not common here inNZ.

1. 
   DougF | Mar 22, 2005 11:45pm | #10

   Not sure I understand your question.  Did I "see them": to what are you referring, the morticer for the jig or the plunge router?

   Doug 

2. 
   cicero | Mar 23, 2005 05:35am | #11

   Ah,sorry about that.

   The slot morticer to which I was referring is a dedicated tool.Has a rise and fall table and a sliding table forward and sideways,plus a set of drills designed to cut sideways.

2. 
   RickL | Mar 30, 2005 10:35pm | #12

   Just curious on what make the Swedish slot mortiser is. I've been a big advocate of the slot mortiser for 20 years and always keeping my eye out for other brands and models to recommend to friends. The slot mortiser is slow to gain acceptance in the US even though the technology goes back to the late 50's in Europe. I've used all the different mortisers from chisel, chain and Maka style and find the slot mortiser and loose tenon is perfect for production and custom short runs. Plus it can be used as a dowel drilling machine or horizontal drill press. We used to do a lot of long pieces and loose tenons on the slot mortiser with no problems whatsoever!

    

1. 
   cicero | Mar 31, 2005 08:07am | #13

   I bought it as separate part of of one of those combo machines and mounted it on a rsj,will enclose pic.

   I cant remember the make,but will enquire tomorrow and let you know.

   I use for doweling also.

   I can't see attachment so hope it shows when I post.

1. 
   cicero | Mar 31, 2005 09:11am | #14

   Blowed if I know how to attach pic,says its there but no slot morticer.

   
2. 
   RickL | Mar 31, 2005 03:04pm | #15

   The picture showed up fine.  Laguna sells the mortiser off the Robland here. They also include the chuck but they kind of push the router as a choice of power. I much prefer the lower rpms of a regular motor as it's much more versatile for drilling and mortising. The slot mortiser is really slow in being accepted in the US. Typically most professional shops won't buy a tool until their buddy gets one so they can try it out to see if they like it. Look how long it took the bisquit jointer to be accepted in this country.  

3. 
   cicero | Mar 31, 2005 07:14pm | #16

   You are up with the play,Robland indeed.

   Had a chap in the other day from England,been in the joinery game for 40 years.good to talk to,loved his tools,we got around to the biscuit joiner,he said he would never use one,thought it was cheating,what could I say??I have an ELU,made in Gemany,different to all the rest and love it.

   2800rpm works well,the motor that you can see is 2hp off a machine I had and was just sitting there,plent of grunt.

   The chuck came with unit,like yours.

   It's the same here re acceptance,I have yet to see another in my travels.