I understand a tenon should not exceed a third the width of the piece it’s lodged in- The 4×4 uprights under the ends of my bench will be m&t’ed down into 4×4 cross pieces, which will be mounted on casters- The “third” rule would allow me just over an inch square tenon- Considering the location and nature of the joint, would this be adequate when the bench will be pushed here and there (lot of leverage)? Should I cut a rectangular tenon rather than square, giving me more glue area, or add through bolts? Or is it just a bad idea? I’ve seen a lot of photos of benches attached to their bases with what appear to be m&t joints- Thanks for your ideas/experience- Dave
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Replies
I built my bench with m&t joints. The 1/3 rule applies to horizontal construction more than vertical construction because weight and racking affect horizontal movement much more.
So, a 4x4 upright into a 4x4 benchtop allows a larger area for the tenon.You could in fact make it up to 2" square IMO without adverse affect.
Thank you- Is your bench a roll 'round? I'm wondering if pushing it around might cause the m&t joints to wear- Did you mortise all the way through the 4x4? Did you use any bolts? Sorry about all the questions- That's what you get for being knowledgeable and available! Thanks again-
with 4 wheels, rolling around wouldn't affect it.
i used thru m + t joints. bolts? i think this defeats the point of strong, good looking joinery.
I've been experimenting with m&t joints and looking at different bench designs, and I agree with you- Good casters won't stress the joints when I roll the bench-
Also, I wouldn't seriously consider bolts, though I am considering dowels- While I have you on the phone...... Can you explain a woodspring to me? I saw a picture, but couldn't see if the strip was wedged, glued or what? Also, do you know who sells "hold backs" or "hold downs" or whatever they're called? A curled piece of iron to hold a piece on a bench surface- Have you used them?
Thanks for the advice-
Dave
I don't know what woodsprings are.
Benchdogs are sold by Garrett Wade and other catalogs. I don't use them; I prefer clamps and more clamps.
Now it's time to leave the computer and build that bench!
Edited 2/15/2005 12:13 pm ET by JACKPLANE
wood springs.........now I might be mistaken here but I believe you are talking about a very old way of holding wood to the surface of the bench. I think there is an explanation of this in" The Woorkbench Book" basically they took a long pole and by springing it against the cieling and the bench top with the work to be held on the bench top the spring in the pole exerted the force downward on the workpiece. A holdfast is much simpler. I saw Frank Klaus at the Massachusetts woodworking show doing a bunch of work on his bench and he uses holdfasts exclusively. I had my doubts about them but after watching him I am thinking it is a fast way to do a hold downWicked Decent Woodworks
Rochester NH
" If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"
The woodsprings I saw (they were referred to as woodsprings) looked like splines, attached to benchdogs, loose up under the head, attached farther down- Supposed to keep the dog firmly in place-
ohh yes............ my brother built his bench dogs from wood and he made those springs out of some mapleWicked Decent Woodworks
Rochester NH
" If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"
Thanks pard- Much obliged- Dave
Hi Dave. I would make the verical tenon [based upon actual 4"x4" measurments] about 1-1/4" by 3" . The 1/3 rd rule applys to the cheeks and there relationship to the mortise. 3" or so for the length of the mortise gives you some room for pinning or through wedging the tenon. Good luck. Peter
Thanks Peter- Actually those figures are about where I've arrived- Seems a small thing, but there are reasons why things work better one way than another-
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