Replies

1. 
   BarryR | Aug 23, 2004 09:30pm | #1

   Are you sure you really need to buy one?  There are so many ways to make tenons you might not have to invest in one at all.  They can't be beat for angled tenons & unusual setups, but I'd bet if you took a poll you'd find most people make their tenons without one.

   (Dont' you love having your question answered with another question?)

2. 
   Jellyrug | Aug 23, 2004 10:21pm | #2

   Bill,

   I used my own jig for a while, until I had a big job, requiring many tenons.

   I then purchased a Shop Fox tenon jig and never looked back. The ease of use, accuracy and quick set up, was well worth it.  It's a lot safer than my custom jigs as well.

   You have two choices with this jig:

   1.) Dialing in the tenon thickness accurately with turning a knob, until you have an exact fit.

   2.) Milling a MDF board to exactly the right thickness, matching both tenon and blade dimensions and using this template to accurately cut your tenons every time.

   Willie

1. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Aug 25, 2004 02:33am | #11

   Can you talk more about this jig?  I went to Shop Fox looking for it but couldn't find it.

   Is it for the table saw or for the router?

   lp

1. 
   Jellyrug | Aug 25, 2004 05:52am | #12

   Larry,

   Very pleased with mine, accurate, quick, cuts angles and good quality.

   Link below.

   Willie

   http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=h5782

1. 
   scooter1 | Aug 25, 2004 10:04pm | #13

   I have a variety of techniques depending on the type of tennon and the number of them.

   I own and use the cast iron Delta jig, and it is a nice produce. Bear in mind that it only cuts one side at a time and the piece has to be re-positioned which may cause error. It is only good for the faces, and can not cut the shoulders. I use it frequently.

   Another technique is to use the RAS, which is actually my tool of choice. I use stop blocks to accurately set the length and multiples take almost no time. The tenon thickness is determined by the height of the blade of course. It is really, really fast. The shoulders have to cut withother set up, usually putting the piece on end and running it through the same stop block, but the blade higher up of course. You can also finish the tennon on the band saw.

   Finally is just a miter guage and a dado blade on your TS. I don't find this particularly accurate, but for one off tennons, I guess it would be OK. I use this set up for angled tennons, and generally have to go through multiples of set ups to get this dialed in right. It helps to have a hold down on your miter guage.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

3. 
   nikkiwood | Aug 23, 2004 11:19pm | #3

   Generally, I think you could get along nicely with any of the jigs on the market.

   However, if you think you need the capability for cutting angled tenons (i.e. chairs), be sure to get one that will perform this function. Not all do.

   The best available jig is probably that big cast iron Delta model, which I think sells for something approaching $300. They have another (under $100) which will do angled tenons; I would describe it as okay, but nothing to write home about.

   Sorry I don't have model numbers for the Delta jigs.

1. 
   JohnSD | Aug 26, 2004 04:07am | #15

   Does anyone have experiance with the Woodhaven jig?  It looks nice and simple and has a sliding tenon head that cuts both cheeks without having to unclamp the work piece.  Other products from Woodhaven seem be well reviewed. Thanks

4. 
   BG | Aug 24, 2004 12:56am | #4

   Bill,

   I bought the General a couple years ago at a show...impulse buy, good discount...their claim to fame is the reversability of the unit...which I'm sure will be a great help somday....yawn.

   I will say, however, while I agree with others they are all fairly similar, I do think the weight of the unit is somewhat important....when your cutting a 2" tennon you want everything to go through smoothly...  Some of the newer units look a bit lite....it would also be nice if you could adjust to the miter so make it nice and tight...mine does not...
5. 
   billsams | Aug 24, 2004 12:50pm | #5

   Bill,

   As mangler has suggested, if you have not tried using a bandsaw for tenoning, you should. For the last year or so I have switched over to cutting tenons with a carbide blade on my bandsaw, much safer, clean cuts, a pleasure in all respects.

   Bill

6. 
   mudman | Aug 24, 2004 07:04pm | #6

   I have the Jet tennon jig, got it on sale. No complaints. If I am making more than 3 or 4 I use it. On smaller tennons (less than 5/8 long) a dado really speeds things up. other than that I use a router. I definately think that the comercialy made units are a LOT better than a shop made solution. They cost less as well if you consider your time to have any value.

   Mike

   please excuse my spelling.
1. 
   MarkRoderick | Aug 24, 2004 08:38pm | #7

   On my last project, after trying to figure out some crazy jig setup to cut the tenons with a machine, as a last resort I pulled out a tenoning saw and cut them by hand. It actually works, at least if you're a hobbyist and don't have too many to cut.

1. 
   Michmesquite | Aug 24, 2004 09:27pm | #8

   "as a last resort I pulled out a tenoning saw and cut them by hand."

   What a novel concept. Watch out, someone may call you a Neandertal woodworker. (an honor by the way.)_________________________________

   Michael in San Jose

   "In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell 

1. 
   yotonyb | Aug 24, 2004 11:46pm | #9

   I've never used a homemade jig, and only on rare occasions have I used a router or dado set-up to make my tenons, though both are efficient methods of work.  I just can't speak with any authority on comparing one method to any others.

   I have been using the smaller Delta tenoning jig almost exclusively and I'm satisfied with the results.  With a test piece, and the fine-tuning adjustment, I can sneak-up on my final dimension for a perfect fit, then run 'em all.  I never need more than a minute or two to clean up the occasional tight fitting tenon...ususally a couple of swipes with some sandpaper on the tenon cheek, or a quick visit to the mortise with a chisel.  It's been called upon to hold long, heavy material 5-6" wide with the blade raised all the way up, and the jig performed well. 

   I have never used the "heavy duty" Delta tenoning jig, though it would have been more appropriate for the last operation described above.

   The General, with the reversible set-up, sounds intriguing, particularly for building chairs.  BG...will it tilt backwards and to the side for angled tenons?  That and it appears to lack the "fine-tuning" control which might be a deal-breaker.

   If you could make the Delta a little beefier, and reversible, it would be an even more versatile accessory.  Similarly, if the General had a fine-tuning adjustment, and the ability to make angled tenons...ditto on its utility!

   tony b.

   Edited 8/24/2004 4:46 pm ET by YOTONYB

1. 
   BG | Aug 24, 2004 11:57pm | #10

   Yotonyb,

   The General International...does tilt back, does have the fine tuning thingie and the reversable aspect refers to putting the jig in either miter on the TS.  For cutting chair motices I suspect you'd need to tilt the blade.  Hope that helps.

7. 
   nikkiwood | Aug 26, 2004 02:53am | #14

   I neglected to admit in my earlier post that while I own the cheap Delta (and a Vega), I rarely use them.

   I do a lot of mortise and tenon work, and 95% of the time, I use a dado blade on the table saw for the tenons. I find it a whole lot faster, and you can get an acceptable result -- IF you have a decent TS, an accurate mitre guage, and a high quality dado set.

1. 
   Jellyrug | Aug 26, 2004 06:26am | #16

   Agree, Dado is the quickest way.

   To be accurate though, your pieces being cut have to be planed to exactly the same thickness, and they have to be perfectly straight. If this is what you have, you can cut a tenon in four cuts, as opposed to eight.

   Willie