Does anyone have any ideas for a jig to run narrow workpieces vertically along a router table fence for cutting tenons? I know that a horizontally-mounted router is ideal for this, but I’d rather just use what I have if that is possible. I have added a taller fence, but I’m not comfortable that I can keep a narrow piece perpendicular to the table as I feed it through.
Any suggestions? Pictures of what you have done?
Replies
As a starting place, I would look in the books about table saws.
For example, I have one titled Table Saw Techniques by Roger Cliffe.
(Sterling Publishing ISBN 0-8069-4268-1 )
Shows a rail end cutter on p236.
The authors' universal jig on p302 may not be exactly what you need, but might help you design your own.
If you are close to a public library, just check out a few table saw books and flip through the pictures.
The key elements are an L shape with a broad base that follows a fence, a tall leg with a vertical bar on it to align the work, and a clamp or two to hold the work in place.
PS: I would not use spring clamps because the workpiece can move when exposed to vibration. Screw type clamps are much more secure.
Why vertically? Why not use the height of the bit to set the depth of the cheek cuts, and use the fence to set the length of the tenon? Something like a miter gauge would be handy to keep the piece perpendicular to the fence, but a square corner of plywood slid flat on the table along the fence would do.
For a jig designed for a hand-held router, check out this: http://www.patwarner.com/tenonmaker.html
use a wooden handscrew clamp..
use a wooden handscrew clamp..
Sounds like a good idea, but can you explain a little more what you clamp to?
clamp the stock in the jaws...let the jaws ride the fence..basically a bigger handle, with a flat surface to register on the top of the fence or the table..I have routed right through the jaws at the tip..when yer done with that set up backfill the rout out with new wood..(glue in a scrap and trim like new)..most versatile clamps in the shop..IMO
Alan,
I drew this up and then saw your reply.
Assume that this is what you meant.
eddie
edit: on the sketch, I've written 'sandpaper on fence', it should be 'sandpaper on face of jig'
Edited 1/6/2004 7:34:52 PM ET by eddie (aust)
Eddie (AUST), Did you draw that sketch and then scan it and save as an attachment then post it?
I just got an I pen, but so far can only convert handwriting to type. I want to dash off a sketch using the I pen.
I have a scanner but can't get the hang of it. What to do? what to do?Stein.How's the temperature down under?
Stein,
You got it in one - that's a rough pencil sketch, scanned onto my pc then uploaded as an attachment.
Cheers,
eddie
35C/95F outside approx, feels like 70% humidity.
Link to find out how hot it is at the moment
Thanx Eddie. for the quick responce. Our weather in Connecticut today is 25 deg's daytime 15 deg's night.
Can you use any? ED from Conn. A K A Stein.
"Why vertically? Why not use the height of the bit to set the depth of the cheek cuts, and use the fence to set the length of the tenon? Something like a miter gauge would be handy to keep the piece perpendicular to the fence, but a square corner of plywood slid flat on the table along the fence would do."
This is how I did my last set, and it works okay. My problem with that method is that if you want tenons longer than the diameter of the bit you have to make one pass on each cheek, reset the fence, then make another pass. I suppose you could set the fence to define the length of the tenon initially then use a miter gage to clean up what was left at the end, but that still means multiple passes. It works, but I thought maybe there was a better way.
My thinking was that if the workpiece is held vertically, then the height of the bit above the table defines the length, the amount the bit protrudes from the fence defines the width, and only one pass is required per side.
Rather than moving the fence each cut- set the fence at the final length- make the first cut at that length then back the piece away towards the end with each succeeding cut.
Look on Dewalts website under wood working and there is a very simple jig that works very well. When I say simple I mean it should only take 15 minutes to build it. It is not vertical but you should have what you need to use it. I would post the URL but I dont do well with computers, or spelling.
Mike
The DeWalt article has given me a couple of ideas, I might try something similar to that. Thanks for the reference.
Bart
Bart,
I'm glad you found it. They are so easy to make and use that I have one for the three most commun tennons I make. And as you said there are many ways to tweak it to serve specific functions.
Have fun,
Mike
I use a dead simple jig for milling drawer sides using a lock rabbet bit on the router table. It's nothing more than a backer board, maybe 8" high, material is the same thickness as the stock you're working with. Add an overlapping piece to that, same height, overlap projecting forward. The overlap should stop just shy of the edge of the piece you want to mill when it's nestled inside the jig. fanccy it isn't, yet if gives me perfect control of the work, prevents blow out as the cutter exits the work and keeps the stock perpendicular.
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Bart
why use the router table? another approach is to hand hold the router and use a jig like in the attached sketch. In use the piece being tennoned is clamped in the jig and the router is run over the end to cut one side of the tennon the piece is turned over and the other side of the tennon cut. Once set up a set of tennons can be cut very quickly. Of course if only one or two cut them by hand.
Ian
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