Replies

1. 
   PeteBradley | Feb 20, 2006 02:13am | #1

   The basic idea is you tighten the blade just enough to make the blade run without fluttering. See:

   http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp

   for one explanation.

   I've successfully resawed hardwood about 8" thick with a 3/8-4TPI band. Your mileage may vary.

   Pete

   
   

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   Edited 2/19/2006 6:48 pm ET by PeteBradley

2. 
   Jumpman | Feb 20, 2006 02:14am | #2

   Just bought a new bandsaw, this is the method outlined in my manual.  Tension the saw blade to the proper tension for the width blade using the tensioning guide on the saw.  Then, with the bandsaw running, slowly back off the tension on the blade in 1/4 turns of the tensioning knob until the saw blade starts to visably flutter.  Then slowly add tension turning the tensioning knob until the flutter dissapears, then tighten the tension another 1/4 turn on the tensioning knob.  This is for a 14" saw, don't know if it's any different for different size band saws...

1. 
   Bodgerman | Feb 20, 2006 05:17am | #3

   Okay.......just what I needed to know.  Thank you.

   Jim M

   Brainerd MinnesotaLife may be short but it can be very wide!

2. 
   DougF | Feb 20, 2006 07:41pm | #4

   My Grizzly bandsaw manual suggests tensioning using the "flutter" method.  All well and good except that this s a method supposedly recommended only for low tension blades such as the Timberwolf.  I have had other much more knowledgeable user than I recommend higher tension for the low-tension blades.  I have experiemented with the various tnesion settings and find that all of my blades cut better at high tension but not all blades cut well at the "flutter" setting.  This is particularly true when resawing.

1. 
   trialnut | Feb 20, 2006 08:04pm | #5

   You have to remember that resawing generates more heat in the blade thus making it longer. I set the tension using the flutter method by increasing tension untill the flutter stops then giving it an extra ¼ turn. When resawing I give it another ¼ turn when I start and back it off when done. Seems to work well this way with most any blade.

   Rich The Professional Termite

1. 
   Jimma | Feb 20, 2006 08:19pm | #6

   If this is your first time using the flutter method, don't forget to remove all of the guides and bearings when you do it.

1. 
   trialnut | Feb 21, 2006 07:13am | #7

   Probably doesn't hurt but I have never found it necessary. I just put a new blade on, tension it and go back to cutting. If it is the same size blade I have found I don't even need to adjust the tracking or guides, just the tension. Maybe I'm just lucky or maybe having the saw tuned well makes a difference.

   RichThe Professional Termite

2. 
   Jimma | Feb 21, 2006 03:59pm | #8

   Could be different bandsaw models work differently (I have a Laguna 16 with Carter guides)? Also, once I get a blade tensioned right, I put a piece of tape on the tension knob with the number of turns written on it that will allow me to back off (de-tension) the blade, then re-tension it to the correct tension.