Replies

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 29, 2003 11:35pm | #1

   Richard when ever I handplane a surface I will always lay my project on a known a flat surface.  If a surface is really out of level then I may shim the work to the level surface so it doesn't rock while I am working on it.  I will find and mark all the high spots and use my scrub or a #5 to bring the high spots down to level.  Also winding sticks can also help find twists in boards.  The bigger planes like jointers or even fore planes will help in leveling a surface because they will not follow the bumps and hollows in the wood like a smoother will.  The smoother should only be used when the surface you are planing is known to be flat.  The way I always plane a surface is start in one corner and work all the ways across to the other side.  One pass the full length so I don't work one area more than any other area.  Spending to much time trying to smooth one area of the work and not doing the same amount of work everywhere else you will start to create dips and hollows in the surface again. 

   Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"

1. 
   rckendall | Jun 30, 2003 12:18am | #3

   Scott,

   Thanks for the input. I didn't have problems with the piece rocking and I "mapped" the high spots as you suggested. With the piece square, 2 corners were real high and 2 real low. I knocked down the high corners first, then proceeded to knock the highs down, working at 45 deg to grain. This was getting me close but high corners coming back. That's when I cut it octagonal. I did use the straight edge to check all directions, but didn't use the winding sticks. I knew it was potato chipped but neglected that step. I'll remember next time.

   If it were you, when would you cut the corners, assuming it was twisted, or would you leave it to aid in the winding stick phase?

   Would using my #7 made any of this easier? It was the potato chip effect that was troubling.

   Thanks again,

   Richard

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 30, 2003 02:07pm | #4

   I will try to get my work down to as near as I can to it finished state.  There are two reasons for this.

   1 - Why plane more material then you have to.

   2 - The finished size will reduce any future changes in stress points which maybe caused when cut to the final size.  This can cause the wood to warp and twist.

   The longer the plane the less it will follow the surface imperfections.  A longer plane will only plane the high spots off.  A general rule is use the longest plane that is practical for the surface you are working and use it until you have a flat surface, then move up to the smaller smoothers.Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"

1. 
   rckendall | Jun 30, 2003 03:34pm | #5

   Scott,

   Thanks for the help. That put everything in place for me. Coming from a boat building background, I tend to make things big at first to help assure proper final shape. I can see in this case it could work against me.

   I'll also try my #7 next time if for no other reason to get accustomed to it. I used it on a coffee table top because of it's size but thought the #5 was more appropriate for this one.

   Again, thanks to you and all others who get us newcomers pointed in the right direction. This is a great site and I value this opportunity very much.

   Richard

2. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jun 29, 2003 11:48pm | #2

   Richard,

   A really quick reply as I'm on my way to work in 20 minutes.

   To flatten a tabletop, use a long plane as Scott suggested.

   Plane first at 45 degrees to the grain direction one way, then the opposite 45 degrees to the grain direction (so the planing directions are 90 degrees to each other). 

   When you're happy that the tabletop is flat (see Scott's post), finish with plane strokes in the direction of the grain.

   Cheers,

   Andrew

3. 
   RMillard | Jul 01, 2003 03:33am | #6

   I don’t own a jointer, so I can’t help you with that one. I use a scrub plane, really a jack plane with a curved blade to get my material flat. I check with straightedges and winding sticks, to gauge the flatness. My days as a carpenter taught me to accept nothing less than perfection ( well maybe not perfection) when starting the foundation. I apply this same approach to stock preparation, since it is much like a foundation for furniture.

   If the board must be dramatically reduced in thickness, then I try to plane more or less equal amounts off each side. This keeps the moisture content, which is usually higher in the center of the board, in balance.

   As noted check for high spots with a straightedge and plane those down. I work as far as I can with the smaller plane, before switching to the jointer plane, as there is no sense in dragging that thing over a board more than necessary. The larger plane will produce a true surface, but not necessarily a flat one, so keep checking with the winding sticks. My winding sticks are two framing squares with a piece of melamine placed behind the far one to aid in sighting the deviation from true.

   The biscuits, while marginally helpful with registration, do little else and can be eliminated.

   Trying to correct for a twist in the glue up won’t work, and if it did work, it would only induce a stress into the top, which could show up later at a very inopportune time. The stock must be flat while at "rest".

   I use a Lie-Nielsen No. 4 ½ smooth plane with the high angle frog for all my finish planing. Lack that plane I use to grind my bevels to 20-25 degrees, and hone a very small, not visible with the naked eye, 5 degree back bevel on my irons. Despite this back bevel going against everything you read ( KEEP THE BACK FLAT) it in effect raises the bed angle of the plane. This simple procedure, will more than any other factor produce a surface free of tearout, other than sharpness of course, but that’s a whole other story. You should with the iron sharpened this way, be able to plane with the grain having taking very light cuts, leaving behind a superior surface.

1. 
   rckendall | Jul 01, 2003 05:02am | #7

   Thanks for your response. It is apparent now that my biggest mistake was not using the winding sticks. I guess I thought it would just come out o.k. because I was using the straight edge so frequently.

   I don't have that LN 4 1/2 but it is on my wish list. I would also have the high frog. In this case (I'm still getting used to this) I was afraid to plane with the grain as I got close because of tear out. A worker from LN told me once to orient the grain in all boards so that they all planed the same way in the end. I have a way to go before I can consider that, but I still keep that nugget tucked away.

   Next one will be easier and better, I hope.

   Thanks again.

   Richard

1. 
   RMillard | Jul 01, 2003 11:21pm | #8

   Orienting the growth rings, while an often quoted procedure, does little if anything to make for a stable top, and can introduce some unwanted factors as far as appearance is concerned . As the L-N reprehensive said, it is better to have the grain going in one direction for ease of planing. But appearance trumps grain direction. Usually the heart side of the board will darken or at least appear darker than the sap side ( think of book matched crotches) .

   One often overlooked aspect of wood is its reflectivity. Wood is much like carpet, when viewed from one direction it is darker than when viewed from the other. This is especially evident on lustrous woods such as mahogany, and your curly maple. For this reason, it is important to select the orientation with this in mind. I wet the wood with paint thinner and view it at a shallow angle to in highlight the reflectivity. More often than not taking this into account will result in the grain running the same way.

   Rob Millard

1. 
   rckendall | Jul 02, 2003 03:22am | #9

   WOW, thanks for that info. I've been bitten by that effect before. Luckily I caught it before I glued the piece into the chair.

   I'm in a hurry now to get into the shop but will come back later and absorb this some more. This kind of info is what keeps me coming back to this site, and as I first stated, THANKS TO ALL OF YOU FOR COACHING US NEWCOMERS.

   Richard