Replies

1. 
   Dutchy1 | Apr 30, 2002 09:23pm | #1

   Bravo! Thats's the way!

   Ruud Joling The Netherlands

2. 
   Biscardi | May 01, 2002 08:11am | #2

   Alan,

   Please help me out. I have a #80 and I can't get the hook right. I have the Plane Book  by Hack and read the section on #80 tuning. I am being dense or something.

   Thanks

   Frank

1. 
   Alan | May 01, 2002 09:41pm | #3

   Frank,

   All I can tell you is the way I do it; and that it works for me.

   First I should mention that the card scraper I cut in half to make my blades was actually thicker than the OME blade from Stanley; and so far it works much better than the Stanley blade. 

   To sharpen the blade I first use a Veritas jig to put a forty-five degree bevel on the scraper blade; I also round the corners of the blade to prevent it digging in should I use the plane at an angle.  I then hone the bevel on a 1200 stone--a finer stone, IMHO, is unnecessary because the file marks are parallel to the edge. 

   (Be sure the back of the blade is flattened and polished as well, for the same reasons you flatten and polish the back of any cutting tool.) 

   To turn the hook I lay the blade flat, bevel up, on a piece of scrap hardwood, so that the edge of the blade is even with the edge of the wood.  I burnish the bevel at the same forty five degree angle for a few strokes to "work harden" it a bit and maybe thin out the edge a little.  Then I slowly, stroke by stroke, roll the edge to about fifteen degrees or so by lowering the handle of the burnisher and moving the blade VERY slightly off the edge of the wood, while continuing to stroke back and forth.  In other words, I don't try to create the hook all at once, but little by little as I move the burnisher down to the correct angle.  When done you should be able to feel the hook by catching it on your fingernail. 

   When I put the blade in the plane (bevel side against the casting) I rest the toe of the plane on a pile of about five to ten sheets of paper and then let the blade drop down until it hits the workbench.  How much I bend the blade depends on the work:  more bend to take bigger shavings, less bend--or no bend--on trouble grain, softwoods, etc.  The old guy that taught me most of the very little I know set his #80 flat on the bench to position the blade and then bent it to take the shaving he wanted.  Try both: one or the other ought to work for you.

   I hope this is helpful,

   Alan

3. 
   jase | May 03, 2002 07:01am | #4

   Highland Hardware has replacement blades for the Stanley #80 for $4.50 a piece.

   Check out http://www.highland-hardware.com/

   Catalog Number: 033922

1. 
   Alan | May 03, 2002 04:24pm | #5

   Jase,

   Thank you for the tip.  I was aware that a replacement OME blade was available.  (Garrett Wade, Woodcraft, Hartville and others carry it too.)  But the Stanley blade is so thin that I was looking for a better one.  Believe it or not the card scraper that I altered to fit the #80 was much thicker than the original from Stanley; and it works a lot better as well.

   Thanks again for the tip.

   Alan

1. 
   jase | May 06, 2002 10:22pm | #6

   Alan,

   The replacement blades sold by Highland Hardware are original Stanley blades according to the seller. But if you found a thicker scraper that works better, then great. I bought my #80 brand new. The blade is probably twice as thick as any card scraper I've seen. I can't imagine using the #80 blade in my hands, let alone anything thicker. Good luck hunting.

1. 
   Alan | May 07, 2002 02:58am | #7

   Jase,

   Your #80 came with a blade that thick?  When I picked up my old #80 it had a blade about as thick as a medium-thickness card scraper.  I estimate that the card scraper I cut to fit was a little less than twice as thick as the original.  But if the new Stanley replacement is better, the next time I mail order something I'll get one:  at about five bucks per I can afford to experiment.

   Thanks for the tip.

   Alan