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I’ve read every discussion on Cherry projects/Linseed oil/Shellac and Varnish. I’ve just finished building a Cherry Armoir and I’m ready to finish it. I’ve planned on using a technique in “Finishes and Finishing Techniques.” I planned on using a boiled linseed finish followed by a dark garnett shellac finish. A friend of mine has also built a Cherry Armoir and he is planning on using “Tried and True Boilded linseed oil with Varnish.” Now, I’m not sure which is the best route.
I’ve read a number of comments about how shellac scratches easily and I have also read a number of comments about how Boiled linseed oil and shellac has been used for kitchen tables. The two comments don’t seem to match. I’ve considered using the “Tried and True linseed oil with Varnish” and then if it is not enough protection, I would add a few coats of Shellac.
Any thoughts? My primary concern is that this cabinet will get a lot of use and I want to make sure I finish it properly. I don’t have access to a finishing room and it is starting to get cold outside (I’m finishing this project in the Garage). Thank you for any suggestions.
BP
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Brennen,
Since you've read everything here regarding this subject, any of my thoughts would be redundant. With the tremendous amount of information that you have already read, I'm a little confused about what type of suggestions you are looking for. Could you please be more specific?
Dano
*There are a great number of things to consider when deciding on a finish. Durablility is one. This runs from the least durable which is boiled linseed oil to the most durable which is polyurethane vanish. Shellac falls in the middle as it offers little protection to water, water vapor, cleaning chemical, etc. It does not scratch that easily but poly varnish is much more scratch resistant.From the point of view of ease of application and repairabililty, oil finishes are the easiest to apply and repair and run to poly varnish which is the most difficult to apply and repair.Lots of choices. I recommend you get "Great Wood Finishes" by Jeff Jewitt. The book will help you chose the appropriate finish and then lead you step by step on applying it. You don't want to mess up what sounds like a nice project. It's the finish that gets the "ohs" and "ahs", not the joinery.
*I couldn't agree more about the importance of the finish. This is my first large project and I'll admit that I'm a bit skittish about the finish. I have read a number of books on the subject but still have a few questions. I admit that my skittish nature is probably making this process more difficult than is should be. My main concerns are:1) Ease of application (I don't have access to a finsh room)2) Is it possible for me to use the "Tried and True boiled linseed oil with Varnish" and then put a few coats of shellac? I Like the idea of wiping on the Tried and True product but I'm not 100% sure about the look. If I decide to later add a few coats of Shellac, will there be a problem? If there is, then should I simply use any Boiled linseed oil? I know that Tried and True has the straight boiled linseed oil, boiled linsee oil with bees wax and boiled linseed oil with varnish. Since the friend of mine is using the boiled linseed oil with varnish, I wanted to make sure I understood the differences. 3) Drying time. Again, I don't have access to a finish room and it is a bit difficult to keep the room above 70 for long periods of time this time of year.4) Durrability. This Armoir will get a lot of use since it being used as my main closet. I would like to avoid the use of poly becuase I've never had the luck nor the skill to make it work.Thanks for your comments.
*I strongly urge you to take some cast-off pieces and try a few sample finishes on them. This will allow you to at least rule out the ones that you don't care for the looks of (apologies for the grammar), and ones that require more (time,patience,experience,equipment) than you wish to invest. Hopefully that will get you down to just a couple choices.Dave
*I suggest you do a wiping varnish finish over your oil. It is as easy as wiping on the T&T. You can make your own by diluting poly 50/50 with mineral spirits. You wipe it on. Because it is so dilute it dries quickly. You can probably put on 2 coats per day. To build a nice finish 6 coats will probably be enough and will give you an excellent finish for durability. While I have said poly varnish my favorite is marine spar satin finish (NON-poly) diluted to the 50/50 and wiped on. Durable and flexible. I really kind of think shellac could get gummy on the surfaces that you will use to open and close this piece of furniture.
*Brennen,It appears to me that ease of application and durability are your main concerns. If this is the case, then I would highly recommend that you use Min Wax Wipe On Poly. It is available in a satin and semi-gloss. Min Wax recommends 3 to 4 coats, I go with no less than 6. Both formulations give a hand rubbed look as advertised. Do not use tack cloths to remove sanding residue.I have applied it in temperatures as low as 60°F with excellent results. I apply it with 100% clean cotton rags (old T-shirts) in about 2ft squares in a circular motion then with the grain feathering the new area into the previous one. At 70°F, it will dry (sanding) in 4 - 6 hours, depending on humidity. I don't sand the first two coats and I stay away from steel wool. I use 400 grit silicon carbide paper, dry. In my climate; Klamath Falls, Or., I've been able to get as many as 4 coats on in a single day. FWIW.Dano
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