Replies

1. 
   swenson | Jun 23, 2010 01:36am | #1

   I have built several router tables and on one I had this problem because I went overboard on the thickness of the insert.  I outlined the router base and routed out the center of the insert to bring the router closer to the surface,  Then I shortened the grip on the bit by only inserting the bit half way into the collet.  If you go overboard with the short shaft grip you could get in a dangerous situation and have the bit come loose so be very careful with this.  It is possible that you have not removed the old base of your router and this is causing it to be too far below the table.  If you are using a plunge router be sure that the depth adjustment is not sitting on one of the three pre set bolts and that you are sitting on dead bottom.  For a very large router table I have used a piece of counter top from Home D and ripped the backsplash off.  There is sometimes a slight rise in the counter top at the front edge and if you leave that on the top will not be dead flat but it never seemed to matter for the things I was routing. August Home's ShopNotes as well as Taunton's Fine Woodworking have had lots of plans for router tables both simple and with bells and whistles.  Good luck.  Be safe.

2. 
   RalphBarker | Jun 23, 2010 08:45am | #2

   plates and lifts vs. weight

   Replacing the original base plate with an aluminum router-table plate (there are several on the market) is perhaps the best option for simple tables. These involve using the original base, typically a fixed base, for adjusting the bit height. Going with a router lift, like the Benchdog ProLift, only the motor is mounted, so the collet can be extended above the table surface for bit changes.

   My current router table uses a plate, meaning I have to lift the whole assembly out of the table for bit changes, and it's actually easier to make adjustments that way, too. But, I'm in the process of building a new table top using the Benchdog lift, as I wanted to upgrade to a larger, heavier motor (PC 7518). The Benchdog lift isn't cheap, but will have much greater flexibility.

   http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19517

3. 
   swenson | Jun 29, 2010 12:08pm | #3

   Dangerous short grip ?

   The more I think about it, the more I worry that my advice about shortening the grip on the bit is very dangerous since I don't know anything about your collet.  I think I know the limits of mine but seeing my advice in print makes me wonder if I am not doing something dangerous too.  That's the problem with free advice... it can be worth just what you paid for it.

1. 
   jrogerh | Jun 29, 2010 10:18pm | #4

   "....shortening the grip on the bit is very dangerous "

   Your uneasy feeling was not ill-founded.  I had two experiences where the bit flew off.  No near misses but it finally got  thru my thick head that I couldn't get away with shortening the collet grip on the bit. Just for your amazement, the second time the bit flew off I took several seconds to turn off the router and set down the board.  When I went to look for the bit it had worked its way along the floor  back behind some cardboard boxes and when I found it (at least one minute after ejection) the bit was still spinning like a top and was just slowing down and beginning to wobble to a stop. 

4. 
   Jfrostjr | Jun 30, 2010 08:57am | #5

   Router Table

   Before replacing your router table I would look at installing a router lift. I personally am a fan of Woodpecker's Power Router lift. I like the fact that it features a twin lift screw design; no binding as a result.

   I have a hex rod I can place in my drill and can then run the lift up, or down, in a matter of seconds to change bits. I use the crank handle that is furnished with the PRL lift for ultra-fine adjustments.

   Frosty

5. 
   Pete99353 | Jul 01, 2010 05:45pm | #6

   I use with great success a router collet extension. Here is a description:

   Dynamically balanced and machined from Fatigue Proof Steel, the Xtreme Xtension fits into any 1/2" collet, and extends the cutters reach by 1-1/4". The single tool cutter changing eliminates searching for and holding the spindle lock while securing the collet with a wrench while the extensions' 1" deep bore provides support for even the shortest shank cutters. Use the included 1/4" x 1/2" reduction sleeve to safely support your 1/4" shank cutters.

   And here is a link to the manufacturer who wrote the above description:

   http://www.infinitytools.com/Router-Collet-Xtreme-Xtension/productinfo/RXX-001/

6. 
   Routerman | Jul 01, 2010 11:24pm | #7

   Some features to look for:

   http://patwarner.com/router_table.html

7. 
   Reg66 | Jul 03, 2010 05:11pm | #8

   Collet height

   Check out the MLCS Collet Extension which adds 2 1/4" to your router's collet height; MLCS # 9466 (1/2") or #9474 (1/4"). The additional height also allows changing bits above the table. It runs true and I only have a slight vibration when using a large, top bearing pattern bit with a 2" cutting height and that subsides when in contact with the pattern.

   Regis

8. 
   brownman | Jul 05, 2010 02:12pm | #9

   I too have used the MLCS router bit extension collet on my router table set up and have had no problems whatsoever. I have since gone to a  Jessem router lift and a different router which has elminated my need for an extension collet. I had originally decided to go with the Bench Dog lift because it seemed to be the beefiest one on the market, but I came across a deal on the Jessem  lift that was just to good to pass up. When I first built a router table many years ago I tried using a 1/4 " piece of Aluminum that I purchsed from a local metal dealer and it sagged over time.