Replies

1. 
   furnituremaker | Dec 20, 2007 09:06pm | #1

   Hi Brian,

   My process is in flux at the moment but I will help you as much as I can.

   I use a water base aniline dye so I start with raising the grain.

   The flux part comes in  because the dye I use is no longer available  - the company went out of business. Aniline dyes are easily mixed though . The dye I used was called English brown mahogany. I would start with a mahogany dye and experiment with adding a bit of red and just a hint of orange.

   Once the correct color is obtained – dilute the dye so that it takes two to three applications to get the correct darkness. This mitigates any unevenness or problems that may be apparent with just s strong single application of the dye.

   I top coat with General Finishes Armor –Seal satin. It will take several wipe on coats to achieve a good build:  3 – 5 coats on vertical surfaces and 5-7 on tops.    I wipe the finish completely dry between coats and use compressed air to blow out any potential runs from the nooks and crannies.

   I finish the finish with  Renaissance Wax.  Use 0000 steel wool with a light touch  to even out the application.

    

   Good luck ,

   Darrell

1. 
   ArchStanton | Dec 21, 2007 03:14am | #2

   Darrell,

   Thank you very much for the information, it is extremely helpful. I had been playing around with glazes but I will now put them aside.

   I appreciate you are very busy but I have one follow up question.

   How should I apply the dye? I have no problem wiping it on my test pieces but when I get to putting it on a chair I seem to get runs from dye dripping onto parts I've already coated. I try to be as careful as I can but I am really struggling. There must be some tricks that the pros use.

   Regards,

   Brian

    

    

1. 
   furnituremaker | Dec 21, 2007 04:09am | #3

   Brian I use a soft terry cloth covered sponge (available at paint or hardware stores) for applying the dye. The sponge will soak up the dye and with a little practice you can control the amount of dye being released for a more even application.

   Darrell

2. 
   peter28 | Jan 03, 2008 04:57am | #4

   Hi Darrell,

   I noticed you said the company that you got dyes from is not in business anymore.

   I'm sure you know about W.D. Lockwood in N.Y. They have some great stuff. There is also Arti.

   If you have any questions about a particular color I have so many in stock I can give you some feedback i.e. one that's too cool or orangey, too grey etc.

   They ( W.D.) have a good selection of acid complex colors too.

   Hope you made out OK with those floods.

   Regards

   Peter Gedrys

1. 
   furnituremaker | Jan 03, 2008 06:43pm | #5

   Hi Peter,

   Do you know where I can get a color chart for Lockwood dyes?

   I am not familiar with the term "acid complex colors " -- what does it mean?

   I did not fare well with the floods here in Seattle - we had 14" of sewer water in our basement.

   thanks,

   Darrell

1. 
   peter28 | Jan 04, 2008 04:01am | #6

   Darrell,

    

   Go to their website wdlockwood.com and check them out.

   Metal complex dyes are more light fast ( about 30%) according to the people at Lockwood.

   I finished a mahogany library in a private home last year using these dyes as my base colorant. There is a LOT of strong light in this room and I know it's only been a year but they are performing to my expectations.

   Sorry to hear about the floods. What a major PIA.

   Peter