Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 30, 2005 03:14pm | #1

   The first necessity is for the wood to be absolutely flat and smooth--wide belt sander territory or VERY meticulous hand work. 

   You should let everything cure well before the next coat, since oil based pore filler can be slow to cure, but it should cure OK over stain.  You should allow at least 24 hours after applying the stain before applying the pore filler.  After applying the pore filler, you do need to allow 48 hours in ideal conditions (70° F. or more with 50% relative humidity or less) and if conditions are less good, allow a week before applying a top coat over pore filler.  Walnut shouldn't add particular difficulties like some of the oily exotic woods might.  However, if you are back down to bare wood, a thin (1 lb. cut) of dewaxed shellac over dye would be a good precaution before applying the pore filler.    

   I usually like to dye first and then apply filler, which can either be over a wash coat--which is currently recommended as an option by some authors--or directly to the dyed wood.  Use the wash coat if you want the pigment in the pore filler to color only the pores.  If you want the tinted pore filler to double as a stain, you can apply it directly to bare wood or to dyed wood.  You can apply a pigmented stain over pore filler, but it will not penetrate like over bare wood. 

   In my opinion, lacquer is about the best top coat for polishing to a high gloss "piano" finish.  (Though on this side of the pond we want a republican (little r) high gloss finish since we booted George III some time ago.)

    

    

1. 
   eximreb | Jan 01, 2006 02:39am | #2

   Steve, I want to thank you for the very clear & consise information. A lot of very well meaning people have tried to help, but wood grain fillers, properly used, seems to be a mistery. The one week drying time is a real clue to my problem. 24 or 48 hours doesn't get it
   RichardStart the revolution with out me,Please