hello,
I am planning on making my first serious project, an Arts and Crafts dining ensemble.
As being self-thought, I have no experience in choosing the right wood for the job.
Can someone advise me?
Thanks,
Tony
hello,
I am planning on making my first serious project, an Arts and Crafts dining ensemble.
As being self-thought, I have no experience in choosing the right wood for the job.
Can someone advise me?
Thanks,
Tony
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Replies
Tonyd,
No expert here but, white oak quarter sawn was used quite often for Arts and Crafts style. The primary being white oak responds well to the fuming type finish..and the ray/flecks that usually appear with quarter sawn stand out and take on a different color. There was a nice article about 6 months ago on finishing and A&C style piece without using fuming.
Besides the fumed finish, QSWO is stable, expands less across the grain and steam bends better than just about any other wood. If you're going towards Green & Green then you'll be looking for mahogany.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
I am not familiar with 'green & green'.
What does it mean?
Toyd,
Green and Green were furniture makers using the A&C style...like Stickley and others.
Tony, quarter sawn white oak certainly figured big in the Arts & Crafts movement...it's showy enough to make a statement and it also qualifies as a fine choice in other respects, since it's an excellent and durable cabinetwood ...But don't feel you have to use it to be true to the style traditions of A&C furniture. This movement was international in scope (both sides of the Atlantic) and it is a very vague style, based on a lot of experimentation by a lot of craftsmen who considered themselves to be more cutting-edge artists than mere wood butchers.
...Fact is, if you really want to be true to the genesis of the style, you should employ at least some original elements of your own creation. These guys were out to blaze new trails...not just cobble furniture together.
The Green Bros were actually Architect's that designed and oversaw the construction of what are referred to as the Ultimate Bungalows. They typically designed and commissioned the entire house and everything in it down to the silverware, plates, linens and rugs. Their furniture is much less rectilinear that Stickley or Roycrafter's, as a heavy asian influence and features expressed joinery as a design element, often punctuated with ebony slines and pegs - awesome. Interestingly enough the houses and furniture were made by two brothers that were Norwegian or Swedish ship builders, so the houses are full of incredible joinery, especially their trademark double-pegged header scarf joints. Visit the Gamble House website and better yet if you're ever near Pasadena, CA spend the $6 and take the tour.
The references elsewhere in this thread to Moser and Becksvort are somewhat misplaced and lest you be confused, Moser builds Shaker inspired furniture and Becksvort builds Shaker reproductions. Gustav Stickley was the self-proclaimed leader of the A&C movement in the US and published many of his designs for the do it yourselfer in his magazine, The Craftsman, which by the way has been reproduced on CD ROM. Another good source is the Popular Mechanics A&C furniture book.
A large part of the A&C movement favored cottage industry as well as home made items as an alternative to the mass-produced Victorian junk borne out of the industrial revolution. That said, self-sufficiency and using indigenious materials would seem to go hand-in-hand. Therefore you can use any suitable hardwood for A&C furniture and not be at odds with the A&C spirit.
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
OAK
As stated by BG and John, quarter-sawn white oak is the traditional wood used in "typical" Arts & Crafts furniture. Do you have someone who can help you select the actual boards you'll be using?
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hello Tonyd,
Several professional cabinetmakers use black cherry exclusively. Thomas Moser has a website that has many examples of their work. Chris Becksvoort has had several articles in FW that show his work with black cherry. I saw some killer pieces of arts & crafts pieces at a university in Georgia. I believe that they were made by Thomas Moser but wasn't positive. Use whatever wood that you want. If you don't like it, give it away as a Christmas present.
Chuck
Hello,
as a beginner who is ready to start with serious woodworking, I am still wondering how to choose the right wood for the right job.What is the best choice for a novice to start with, considering the characteristics of the wood and the price.What is the best used secondary wood?Is it possible to become a good self-thought cabinetmaker or will it be inevitable to attend workshops or classes.
Tony
Tony, your question here is one of the most complex in all of woodworking. There are thousands of woods from all over the world that come into the equation...and they each have their subtle advantages in any given application.
One of the best ways to learn is to review what species were used by the Old Masters in various applications. They paid their tuition in the school of hard knocks and by the time they became masters they knew what they were doing. You can do this via building a library of reference books, or...once you've learned to ID woods, by simply crusing antique shops or auctions. Until you get sharp at recognizing woods, ask a lot of questions of antique dealers and more experienced woodworkers.
Workshops will help you jump start the process by putting you in an environment that exposes you to people with similar interests...and it also helps to get a quicker feel for joinery processes and the use of tools you may not yet have in your shop.
...but ultimately, this is an experience based craft and only you can teach yourself the hand-eye coordination it takes to get good at it. And only you can make the final decision on what woods you most enjoy working with and also perform the best in the kind of projects you decide to concentrate on. Each specialization, such as turning, furniture making, musical instrument making, etc has its unique criteria.
And finally, be prepared to make a lot of mistakes...hopefully of diminishing magnitude as you go along. While your successes bring inspiration and reward, the true mentors of this craft are the mistakes you make.
Tony, consider spending some time at the library and read up on the various A&C craftsmen and their work. If you want to do more than simply follow the instructions in a plan, wood choices and all, you'll really need to immerse yourself in the design and artistic characteristics of this era. I suspect you'll find yourself in 7th heaven once you start, and it won't all be such a mystery after a little research.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hello Tony,
I have just begun WW myself within the last year. Eventually I would like to design and build larger furniture but that requires a lot more knowledge and skill than I now possess. As a result I am starting by making smaller items - jewelry boxes and clocks in particular. This allows me to experiment with a number of different woods to see how each works and finishes. In addition I can learn joinery techniques that will come in handy with larger pieces in time. And, from the voice of experience, it also helps me find which woods I am sensitive to with allergic reactions. I wouldn't want to purchase a large number of BF of something that makes me ill or brings up a nasty rash! In my case I think Zebra wood is especially appropriately named!
I have found that while they are relatively somewhat costly, you can get small pieces (1/2 x 3 x 24) of a number of various woods online from places such as Woodcraft. Also check local cabinet shops for their scraps. Or better yet, if you can find a luthier they often have wonderful scrap. A couple months ago I was given a large piece (16/4 x 10 x 32) of Spanish Cedar because it had checking and was useless for his needs and he regularly gives me cartons of instrument grade quilts, flames and other highly figured wood scraps that are too small for him but perfect for my small projects. Sometimes pallets are made of good lumber and can be had free for the asking (watch for nails in the wood!).
I suppose the bottom line is that I would encourage you to experiment with different woods and don't be shy to ask questions here as well as read various threads that interest you. Don't be afraid to try things ... some will work for you and others won't. And starting small means you will complete your projects faster (very important at first!) and when things don't work out (sigh) you haven't lost much in material and gained important knowledge. I have what has become a router bit box made of gorgeous bloodwood with burl inlays that basically was a disaster from the beginning and I wouldn't dare show it to anyone. :+) But when I considered what caused all those mistakes I learned a lot and built a great deal of skill making it and that shows in everything that came later. Good luck!
Ken
tonyd
As for wood of choice I just finished building a Stickley bed from Hickory. In my mind I truly love this species and I think the bed came out just great. There are a lot of great books on that style of furniture in all the larger book stores and also on line. Do some reading and learning and pick out a wood that you love to work with and go from there. I had an absolutly great time working on this project and now planning my next. Also look up the Roycrofters web site for ideas. They have a great campus located in East Aurora NY and they have a great art show the last weekend of June of every year. Well worth going to if you live in the Buffalo NY area. Best of luck with your project and I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoyed working on mine. Bob
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