After all said and done, which dovetail jig is truly THE easiest and simplest to use? For small to medium (~8″ high) size jewelry style boxes. Yes, variable spacing is a nice benefit too.
Is the winner Keller, Gifkins or Leigh?
Which is the best value?
Gary
Replies
Ah..... the one you make yourself, especially if you're making multiples of all the same size.
Bill Page wrote an article called:
Make your down dovetail jig, quick and easy system for routing this traditional joint
It has been republished a number of times since FWW # 106, May 1994 pg 79-81.
I have it in The Best of FWW,Shop Accessories You Can Build, pg 33.
I haven't built it yet, but it looks easy enough and should save me about $400 over buying a commercial jig.
Happy Hunting!
Chills
Thanks Chills.Can you send me a copy of The Best of FWW,Shop Accessories You Can Build, pg 33 article? Would be much appreciated!
Did they use Polycarbonate for the template?
Never heard of the Gifkins befrore this. From What I see in the info on it they now have a variable spacing upgrade option for it. I would be interested in the responses to this post and especially to any on the gifkins.
The Grifkins is a new one to me. This site has some good info on dovetail jigs. I found the Leigh expensive and a bit complicated unless you use it frequently and develop a system. The Akeda is another choice in adjustable jigs.
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/leigh.htm
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
The Porter Cable jigs are very simple. Generally any of the fixed spacing jigs are easier to use.
Mike
I built over 400 blanket chests in a ten year period with a mid sized Keller and used the smallest size for a lot of drawers and small boxes. The fixed spacing is not a problem, in fact, it is its greatest strength. It’s simple, accurate and bulletproof, I can’t say enough good about the product.
Try this link...
http://www.stots.com/
I have nothing to do with them but ya' sort of 'Roll Ya Own'
I have heard some folks like it ALOT!
Thanks for the link Will!
Have you made your own jigs?Gary
Yes.. I have a few... Why I posted the stots page..It is just a 'comb' with spacing you want that fits a particular router bit and brass guide on your router...Not sure what he charges BUT worth it if you do not want to 'roll your own'The 'TRICK' is like anything else for a router.. THE PATTERN will make or break it... The router just follows the guide you made..If the pattern is off.. SO is the cut!EDIT:: NOT knockin' the Keller or any other fixture.. Just that you can make ALOT of patterns and probably your project or two for the cost...Patterns can be a 'pain' to make but once made. You can use it over-and-over again..
Edited 8/6/2005 3:01 pm ET by Will George
I have the MLCS jig which looks like a Keller jig. It is easy to use and produces nice results (fixed spacing). It comes in two sizes. Art
weby,
Keller, hands down the simplest of the group and ten years after buying mine I can't say a bad thing about it. I just bought the big milled aluminum version for thicker stock and it's just as easy as the smaller version I've had for years but in two pieces (one each for tail and pin).
I second the fact that I can't say enough good things about the jig, and David Keller is a helpful friendly guy to deal with.
Brian
Brian,Thanks for the feedback.I'm having the most difficult time trying to hunt down the size of the Keller 1601 jig pattern. Most of what I do will be small boxes, so I don't want a huge pins and tails.
Can somebody send me a full scale image of the smallest size jig pattern? Besides, just saying it's 1 1/8" center on center (per the specs)...that doesn't help me at all. If my small boxes are only 4.5" deep will the 1601 pattern be too big? Yes, it depends on the look I'm after. Small pins and tails is what I'm after, what's the minimum size?Gary
If you really want very fine pins and tails, file up the PAX dovetail saw and hone the chisels. You really should learn to cut them by hand anyway, every woodworker should at lest try to master them. I bought the Keller jig after the first 20 blanket chests were done by hand. I found the buyers just did not care if the joints were hand cut and I needed to increase the profit margin. Sometimes though, by hand is the best way. Keller’s website should have the specs on his jigs and router bits.
Weby,
The nice thing about the smaller Keller jigs is that you can also variably space the dovetails without all the fuss and difficult layout. I believe the smaller jig is called the "Journeyman", but I could be wrong. As for an image of actual dovetail sizes, I don't know enough about the computer to be able to provide you with that, not my forte.
Good Luck,
Brian
For small dovetails, check out the gifkin jig. I hear it has been getting good reviews and he is box maker and makes them in differant sizes. You can possibly email him your questions and get a decent response.
http://www.gifkins.com.au/
The following is a quote from his site:
“After many years of producing boxes with hand cut dovetails, I could see the need for a dovetail jig that produced accurate, small scale joints. For my custom boxes I needed a pin spacing (center of one pin to center of the next pin) of less than one inch, preferably around ¾”.
Hope this helps
1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Edited 8/5/2005 5:46 pm ET by Rick503
Rick,Thanks, yes it sounds like a solid jig.
Not sure how the phenolic template would hold up though.
The Keller jig is aluminum. They're about the same price.
If the Grifkin can cut finer pins and tails then I'm sold.
Will drop him an email.Gary
webdesigner,"Most of what I do will be small boxes, so I don't want a huge pins and tails."
I've never seen a dovetail bit that was less than 1/4" shank..therefore requiring a rather clunky looking joint in 4 1/2" high stock that is probably only 3/8" thick. On the front stock (pins) I'll usually go with 5/8" stock to get a better looking dovetail..but you can't do that with boxes. This, of course, is all personal taste but I like to keep things in the 1/8" range so the joint looks more graciful. In other words, not sure you can achieve what your after using a jig.
Maybe it is just me.. but I think dovetails have got to be one of the more difficult things to master in woodworking. I recently purchased the cheap 'shop fox' jig.. just to get a feel for it.. I spent more time on alignment than I did cutting the dovetails.. To get the left and the right side aligned (so the dovetails break the same on both sides of the drawer) was a real bear..
I use three-- Keller, easy as can be, limited variable spacing, through type only. Leigh-- bigger learning curve than Keller, but more versitile. Full, half and sliding all possible. Saw and chisel-- big, but not unsurmountable learning curve. Relaxing, better looking, half or full with any spacing or pin angle imaginable. Each has their own time and place....Jimmy.
I've had the Keller for years. I bought the Incra router table fence 4 years ago and it is designed to be a dovetail jig. I've never been able to align it correctly. I really like my Keller.
As a side note, I make the sides and front a little bit wider than I need. Then I fine tune them, making multiple passes on both sides with my jointer until it's exactly right, meaning the top and side edges are even with each other. It takes a little longer, but if I don't, with my bad eyesight, the edges are never even.
I'm amazed at the number of you that like the Keller. It's usually not mentioned much as a favorite. If you want variable spacing with it, simply move the jig to where you want them. Of course, you also have to move the other jig the same amount.
Edited 8/6/2005 8:29 am ET by Larry
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