Replies

1. 
   jvs | Dec 02, 2003 02:10pm | #1

   It makes sense to me, too, that a thin shaving would make a better surface finish, but it doesn't always work out that way.  As a person who taught me said, you are working on the wood, not the shavings, so go with what works best, and that is sometimes a slightly heavier cut. 

   I usually just go for whatever eliminates tear-out.  If that means scraping or sanding from there, oh well...

   /jvs

1. 
   BG | Dec 02, 2003 04:57pm | #2

   JVS,

   I've been struggling with the tearout issue...which doesn't show if I stop with the planing...but if I hit the wood with 220-320....there they are...

   This thick or thin is interesting.  What about speed of plane...is slower on final passes better?

1. 
   jvs | Dec 02, 2003 05:28pm | #3

   I think speed is probably another "whatever works," BG. I just try to keep it fairly slow and very steady, and stick with completely conventional thinking from there; higher angles, tight mouth, heavy irons, and the sharper the better.

   Beyond that, there are some other things to try. Backbevels (even small, easy to grind out ones) and slightly wetting the wood with a mister have been mentioned, but my go-to smoothers get by without, following the rules above. I have a friend that is a pro (I shovel coal into mainframes and yell at people for a living) who swears by wiping birdsey and tightly curled maple with a very dilute shellac spitcoat for final passes. Gunks up the planes like crazy, but it apparently works for him.

   Even high angles and slow/steady speeeds aren't a hard rule. I've seen video of Toshio Odate that looks like he is trying to burnish the wood, and as I understand it, Japanese planes are generally bedded 42-45°. Go figure.

   /jvs

1. 
   BG | Dec 02, 2003 05:50pm | #5

   JVS,

   Thanks for the response, it's good to know it's a struggle for many to achieve a tearout free surface.  I have tried the back bevel on my #3...seems to help.  I do have some shellac flakes that I can chew on and spit out on the workpiece.....maybe I'll try sharpening more first.....lol 

1. 
   jvs | Dec 02, 2003 10:22pm | #6

   One more tip--gargling with "everclear" while chewing helps keep down the lumps, but I've been off the stuff for a decade, so again, keep with whatever works.   :)

   /jvs

2. 
   mlbfreestyle | Dec 02, 2003 05:34pm | #4

   It would make sense that if the shaving is thicker, then it is easier to propogate a tear into the surface of the wood.  This is the essence of tearout.   A narrow throat opening and a closely set chip breaker can reduce this effect, but I would maintain that it is best to reduce the cut depth if finish is critical.