Replies

1. 
   dondownunder | Oct 02, 2005 09:17am | #1

   Short answer - it depends on several things such as how generous the sawyer was when the timber was broken down and the shrinkage at kilning, how much bow, warp or cup in the boards and finally how much needs to come off the boards when they are planed to leave a finish ready surface.

    

2. 
   dennis2 | Oct 02, 2005 09:47am | #2

   Hi Brian:

   I know it's crazy to have to use 5/4 lumber to get 7/8" but that seems to be the way its going.  You can't get 3/4" plywood anymore either.  I don't care that their undersizing the material -- I just wish they wouldn't call it the old name.  they should call it, for example 23/32 plywood.

   Anyway enough with my rant.  You might be able to get by with 4/4 if you buy it unsurfaced and cherry pick the pieces. 

   Good luck.

   Dennis

3. 
   douglas2cats | Oct 02, 2005 03:11pm | #3

   Ditto what dondownunder said. I've sometimes gotten 7/8" out of 4/4. More often than not, I end up at 13/16" but sometimes have to go to 3/4" to get to a flat board. Just curious - can you modify the plans to get by with 13/16" ?

   Waddaya mean it wont fit through the door?

4. 
   vbwoodworks | Oct 02, 2005 03:24pm | #4

   4/4 should be fine. you may get 7/8 or 13/16 out of it but if you don't even 3/4 will work. you will more than likely have to modify the plans a little bit here and there.   it isn't to big a deal   

   Darrin      

5. 
   wrudiger | Oct 02, 2005 11:21pm | #5

   I have 2 choices at my supplier.  The Certified (i.e. sustainalby harvested, chain of control, etc.) 4/4 is around 15/16".  The regular is more like 7/8" already.  This is S2S1E.  So... depends on how clean and true the lumber is to start with - in the sizes you need.  Sometimes I have trouble getting 13/16" out of the certified - and that's after hand picking. 

   There is something to be said with going with slightly non-standard (e.g. 7/8" vs. 3/4") dimensions.  Even though you might not be able to say just what is different about the piece, you will know it is something special.

6. 
   BOBABEUI | Oct 03, 2005 03:41pm | #6

   Hi Brian,

   As other posters have advised, it kind of depends, sometimes you may be luckly and can yield 7/8 net out of 4/4 rough stock, other times you might need to use 5/4 rough. It seems to depend on many variables, such as how bowed, cupped or twisted the rough stock is,  how generous sawyer was with the thickness of the  4/4 stock and how long/wide the piece part is you need to be milled to 7/8 net.

   Good luck

    

   
   

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   Edited 10/3/2005 8:42 am ET by BOBABEUI

7. 
   Willie | Oct 03, 2005 06:28pm | #7

   Brian,

   If you will be power planing and jointing, or if you don't use rough lumber, 5/4 will be the only way to ensure 7/8".

   If you use carefully selected rough lumber and you hand plane after cutting and jointing to size, 7/8" is quite achievable.

   Negotiate for 3/4"

8. 
   Thew | Oct 03, 2005 08:13pm | #8

   BOBABEUI mentioned the length and width of the finished piece has a bearing on rough stock thickness. I find that I can get by with 4/4 for most smaller milled parts, but for tabletops and larger pieces, I usually make sure I have plenty of thickness. It always seems like the boards don't look so bad until you lay them next to each other and start figuring out how much material you really have to take off.

   Thew

9. 
   bobtexas | Oct 03, 2005 11:40pm | #9

   You can make 3/4" work for many situations.  I used both solid wood and plywood for the attached piece. 

   You must have read the same article I did before I started.  I read 7/8" and went tilt.

   Be sure to send a photo when you are done.

   Bob