Replies

1. 
   mufti | Sep 03, 2006 04:23pm | #1

              Cap, just start with identifing your machine, then you will get posts from users of the same.

2. 
   Sean2112 | Sep 04, 2006 03:25am | #2

   If you find a planer that doesn't snipe at least a little bit, please tell me make and model!  When I plane to thickness, a 1/64th snipe might as well be a quarter. The end becomes useless to me, so I allow for it and don't fret about tuning my machine to try to eliminate it.

   Regards,

   Sean

1. 
   cadiddlehopper | Sep 04, 2006 05:44am | #3

   Newer planers with locking devices on the heads are much better than older models. I use a Delta 22-565 which is pretty good at not sniping. As insurance, I make the last cut a very light one and apply slight upward pressure to the free end of the board as it enters and exits the cutter head. It is effective insurance. I am not the only person who has discovered this technique. It is in print. Give it a try.Cadiddlehopper

3. 
   forestgirl | Sep 04, 2006 06:10am | #4

   I'm not familiar with your planer, but as a previous poster mentioned, head locks on planers really help with the snipe.  Other factors that reduce snipe are dead-level infeed and outfeed tables, supporting the stock as the last few inches emerge.  But for near-guaranteed elimination of snipe, feed the boards through end-to-end-to-end, if need be use a throwaway scrap to lead and follow.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

1. 
   JayS | Sep 04, 2006 04:58pm | #5

   Lifting the leading end of a long board slghtly as it comes through helps.  I have a powermatic 15 inch planer and there is almost no snipe or none at all on short boards, but there is aout 1/64 on longer boards, as the weight pulls down and effectively levers the trailing end up slightly.  Since you will have to hand plane the planer machine marks off any board for fine furniture, you can just start your hand plane passes 3-4 inches in from the end, at the point where the snipe begins, and level the rest of the surface to the level of the snipe.  This means usning your calipers and being sure there is enough thickness in that area.  It usually only takes a few passes. 

   I have not found that feeding the long board through with a short board makes any difference, since that won't restrain the tendency for the trailing end to rise into the cutters. could you explain your exact method for doing this?

   Jay

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 04, 2006 08:46pm | #6

   "I have not found that feeding the long board through with a short board makes any difference, since that won't restrain the tendency for the trailing end to rise into the cutters."  I saw a drawing once that explained why it does work (at least with the "lunch-box" planers).  It had something to do with the trailing board keeping the feed-roller steady, thereby not making/allowing the main board to get sniped.  Sorry my memory isn't better.

   I simply butt the trailing (sacrificial) board up against the main piece of stock when there's enough room on the infeed table to do so.  There can't be any gap between the two.  When I'm planing several pieces of wide stock (too wide to feed side-by-side), I feed them this way and if I'm concerned about snipe, feed one extra piece at the end.

   My impression is, anything that keeps the feed rollers steady past the lead and trailing edge of the stock will work.  For instance, you could probably place a narrow piece of stock, 3"-4" longer than your main stock, on either side of the main stock.  But that's much more of a hassle and wouldn't work if your main stock is close to the max. width of the planer.

   Gotta say, though, the little Delta doesn't snipe much at all if the cut isn't too deep and if I'm careful in the feeding technique.  Rather than lifting up on the end during infeed, I hold the board snugly against the table.  Accomplishes the same thing.  Hope it's safe enough.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   cadiddlehopper | Sep 04, 2006 09:01pm | #7

   If boards are narrow enough, I suppose that running them thru staggered could help also. Whenever one does anything else, however, his hands are not available to give that slight upward pressure. I like to catch my boards before they fall off also. My planer functions so well that what I do is adequate, but I will try some of the methods you suggest for my own satisfaction.Cadiddlehopper

2. 
   JayS | Sep 05, 2006 03:06am | #8

   Thanks.  I'll try it again. If you find that explanation I'd love to see it because it is counter intuitive that it should work.  Holding the board down on the infeed side is fine until the board disappears into the planer after which you can no longer apply pressure, and that's where the snipe will occur.  Hence, lifting at the outfeed end will keep the infeed end down until the very end.

   Jay

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 05, 2006 06:54am | #9

   "Hence, lifting at the outfeed end will keep the infeed end down until the very end."  Yep.  Works good, it does.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

4. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 06, 2006 04:30am | #10

   If you have time glue some scrap onto the ends of the stick.. Long enough to allow the 'snipe' to go on them.. Works for me..

5. 
   jb3 | Sep 07, 2006 12:21am | #11

   I have a Bridgewood 15" (1987) model, after several hours of checking, and adjusting, I can find no discernable snipe on my normal work (under 5' pieces).  I bought this old machine to replace my Delta 13" bench top planer.  I now have two planers, and actually keep the Delta (now permanently set at 3/4" thickness).  I use the tank to get close, pull out the Delta for my finish pass, and all is good with the world.  I had planned on selling the Delta, but this new technique works so well, I think I'll stay with it for a while.

   Jim

6. 
   RickL | Sep 08, 2006 02:36pm | #12

   Not counting the lunch box planers snipe is mostly caused by the bedrolls being too high. I typically set them a few thousandsth above the table. The planers I adjust do not have snipe.