I have a 3 HP, 15″ King Industrial (Canadian) thickness planer that works like a charm except that some of the wood shavings are getting mashed into the face of the planed surface by the outfeed roller. Does anybody know why it does this? I do have a 1.5 HP dust collector connected to the planer that seems to do a great job except some of the chips are clearly getting left behind. This never happens with my benchtop Dewalt thickness planer with or without the dust collector. Thanks to all who reply.
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Replies
I would say it's because it's probably plugged or partially plugged somewhere along the hose. Also if you have other machines hooked to the same collector, make sure all other gates are closed except the one for the planer. A 1.5hp really isn't that much. Also your run from the collecter to the planer may be too long? Could be many things really.
John E. Nanasy
John,
Thanks for your reply. My dust collector is hooked directly to the planer. I just move it around the shop and connect it to whatever machine I am using at the time - everything is on wheels.
When I was setting up the machine I removed the chip breaker next to the cutter head and when I reinstalled it, it may not have gone back in exactly the same position. I am not sure how close the breaker should be to the cutter head, or whether or not this has anything to do with the problem. I do know that when the chip breaker was just a hair off the blade of the cutter head the machine made a very loud howling noise, so it backed it off a bit Any thoughts on this?
JROWE,
The set up/maintenance instruction manual that came with your planer should tell you what the manufacturer recommends how far below the chip-breaker is set to the blade's level.
If the machine's technical information isn't available, the rule of thumb would be to set the chip-breaker 0.030" below the blade's arc.
Every time you adjust the infeed roller mechanism, the distance between the chip breaker and the blades will have changed as well. Basically, if you move one, you must re-calibrate the other.
All of the problems that you've mentioned are indicative of the chip-breaker not being precisely calibrated.
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask!
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Edited 4/12/2003 11:50:20 PM ET by Jackie Chan
Dan,
Thank you very much for the "rule of thumb" distance. I can't remember what I set as the current gap but I know it is more than that. As I mentioned in my previous post, the machine seemed to howl quite a bit when the chip breaker was very close to the blade, likely because of the aerodynamic effects of two solid objects moving past one another at high speed. Have you experienced this on other machines?
J-
The howling effect was most likely being caused by the chips being jammed into too narrow an opening with the blades rubbing against them at high speed. (This is a possible fire danger if this is what's happening - friction ignition.)
You'll get the same kind of banshee howl if you ever have a long piece of hard maple bind on the table saw during a rip cut. The wood screams and protests, and will most likely come out with a burned edge on the other side.
If you need any help with the set up, let me know.Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Dan,
I don't think that is the case here because with the chip breaker a hair off the blades, it howls upon startup before any wood is put through it.
J-
"...it howls upon startup before any wood is put through"
An interesting predicament. To state the completely obvious, this should not be happening. I have two questions (1) Does the howling continue after initial start up? (2) Are you sure that the positioning or repositioning of the chip breaker is actually the cause of the noise?
It is possible that a different mechanism is causing your dilemma. There are a few things that should be inspected on a machine of the size and type that you own. (Please unplug the machine for all of the following.) Closely take a look at the V-belt (drive belt) off of the motor. Check for belt deflection by pushing with a single finger on the outside of the belt between two pulleys. There should be only a fraction of an inch of deflection. The belt should be pliable, free of cracks, and just as importantly, it should be free of any pitch, resin, or glazing. The V-belt should be checked from time to time, and replaced if it is even slightly suspect. (After approx. 20 minutes of run time, a new belt should be re-inspected and re-tensioned if necessary.)
Just like your car, if your planer has a gear box, the fluid should be drained/ replaced once every twelve months or so (every 60K miles on the car!). Check the drive chain of the rollers. It should be free of any junk build up, and completely lubricated.
Two more questions: (1) Are you sure that all of the knives are set to the identical height? It's very easy to have one end of a blade shift up at the last second when you're tightening the bolts down. (2) Have you looked for any damage on the chip breaker and other components? (Are there any nicks, burrs, etc...)
Let me know, and we'll solve this dilemma.Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Dan,
Yes, it did continue after the initial startup and I am sure it was the chip breaker (CB)because this is a new machine and it did not make this noise until I made some roller adjustments which necessitaed removal of the CB to gain access. It is only when I reinstalled the CB (apparently too close to the blades) that I got the howling noise. When I backed them off a smidge, the machine purred as it did when I first turned it on.
Your last point about all the knives being set at an identical height is a good one. Perhaps I set the chip breaker relative to one knife only but did not check the other two. I will reposition the CB closer and check all three knives. Hopefully this will eliminate the original chip problem without that noise reappearing.
It sounds like a plan. Let me know how it turns out!
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
One more thing that may be contributing to the chip dents as I call them . Your bench top planer may have rubber feed rollers, your 15" model probably has steel rollers . The rubber seems to absorb the chips more . With the steel the chips get forced harder into the stock . That is one reason many of the small bench top models produce such nice surface .This was just a thought and may not be the problem . good luck
Dusty,
That is an excellent point but I guess there is not too much I can do about that except try and minimize the chips that are left on the board through other adjustments.
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