Replies

1. 
   mfg_king | Dec 20, 2002 05:20am | #1

   I did extensive research before I bought my planer and I chose the Ridgid. It has the best bang for the buck I feal. It has worked great for me and many others.

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Dec 20, 2002 05:42am | #2

   Rich

      I have the new Delta 2 speed at $400. I almost got the Ridgid at $399. The Dewalt at $ 350 is also a preformer. All get the job done for those that have them. All similar in price. If money is an object, shop the best deal. If not, chose the color you like best and buy it. grin<>

   Good luck..

   sarge..jt

3. 
   dwyates | Dec 20, 2002 06:26am | #3

   Rich, the Winter 2002-2003 special issue of FWW Tools and Shops, has a review on planers (and jointers). I've only used the Ridgid, so I can't really compare it w/ the others - but, for what it's worth, it did give a really nice finish.

   As far as the mounting height, the one I used was on the supplied (Ridgid) stand - not real easy to move, should you have to. I'm thinkin' it's more of a space saving feature to have it mounted low - say, under your table saw extension table. I'm going through the process of planning a new shop layout, and with a small 2 car garage (18'x18') it's tempting to mount it under the saw extension just to save that extra space.

4. 
   dwyates | Dec 20, 2002 06:32am | #4

   Also, Jim Tolpin's book Working at Woodworking shows the planer mounted to a long infeed/outfeed "rack" thing that he hoists to the ceiling when not in use (above an assembly table).

5. 
   JeffKurtz | Dec 20, 2002 07:19am | #5

   Rich,

   I believe the reason for it being so low was so that he could use his table saw with no obstructions in the way.

   I too looked at the Ridgid, and was impressed.  If anybody at HD would have shown enough interest to ask if they could be of assistance, I probably would have bought it.  That and the fact that the guarantee isn't worth the paper it's written on ("for the life of the machine" and it must be sent to one of about 20 repair centers rather than just returned to the store) sent me off to the candy store.

   I ended up buying a DeWalt.  With the sale they had going and the $50 rebate, I got it for less than 300 bucks and couldn't be happier with it.  Besides that, the yellow goes well with my shop's color scheme.

   Jeff

1. 
   snomaker | Dec 20, 2002 07:24am | #6

   Just ordered the DeWalt myself.  Looking at the rebate, are the other options interesting instead of the cash back or are they junk?

   Rich

1. 
   JeffKurtz | Dec 20, 2002 07:27am | #7

   The jig saw should be pretty good, but the two cordless drills are a little short on power.

   Jeff

2. 
   cheakamus | Dec 20, 2002 10:08am | #8

   Jeff,

   This week I returned my two-year-old Ridgid shop vac (itself a replacement of my first machine) to HD for a new one. Problem was the same with both the first two--the on/off switch grew stiff and finally stopped working. So, now I'm on my third machine, all at one low price. I don't understand why Ridgid doesn't just repair the switches, but who am I to complain? I'd say they have a pretty good guarantee.

1. 
   BoJones2 | Dec 20, 2002 08:46pm | #9

   Is this common?

   I bought a jet 15" planer at woodcraft and after checking the assembly instructions the operating instructions said something to the effect of " The Jet Corp. assumes that the buyer has experience in operating a thickness planer if not then you should seek experience from someone qualified." Is this a crock or what? Sure I had operated a friends once but that is not exactly what I would call helpful. I am sure corporate lawyers feel they have protected their client ..at the possible cost of a new woodworker!

   Now that I have had my say. The planer is a heck of a tool! Good day.

   Bo

1. 
   SgianDubh | Dec 20, 2002 09:46pm | #10

   I'm not sure it's entirely a 'crock', Bo-- thickness planers can be extremely dangerous in the wrong hands. They are sometimes trickier to set up, maintain, and operate safely properly than many a first time user realises.  Here are a few puzzlers that experienced operators will instantly know the answer to, but they might trip up new users, ha, ha. Slainte.

   1. Describe at least one circumstance where the operator might expect a kickback using a machine with a solid single feed roller? If two circumstances where kickback might occur could be described, that would be even better.

   2. What steps should be taken to completely eliminate snipe?

   3. What is the purpose of the bed rollers in larger machines, and what's another name for them?

   4. Where are both the chipbreaker and pressure bar located, and what are their purpose?

   5. Describe a set up that could be used to flatten a board using only a thickness planer?Some stuff I've made.

1. 
   BoJones2 | Dec 22, 2002 04:37am | #11

   Thank you Sgian,

   My point exactly! The people I've learned from don't know these either but we are all capable of understanding written materials. There is no better teacher than hands-on training, but if it is not readily available the next best way to learn the necessary skills to become a safe, competent worker is by reading and understanding the many sources of information that is readily available to us. Hopefully that is the purpose behind the Knots Forum: To share the knowledge. Surely Jet designers must have a better understanding of planers than the average wood worker and for safety reasons alone it then seems that they would want to share their knowledge!

   Thanks

   Bo

   Sometimes we tend to overlook the obvious.

2. 
   mfg_king | Dec 22, 2002 05:23am | #12

   Uh...can we have the answers?

3. 
   SgianDubh | Dec 22, 2002 08:14pm | #13

   Sure. I'll type them up later when I finish work. Slainte.Some stuff I've made.

4. 
   SgianDubh | Dec 23, 2002 02:30am | #14

   Here you go MFG.

   Describe at least one circumstance where the operator might expect a kickback using a machine with a solid single feed roller? If two circumstances where kickback might occur could be described, that would be even better. ---A classic cause of kickback is multiple feeding of stock of uneven thickness. The feed roller will only properly grab the thickest piece, and even though the thinner pieces are often be dragged in too they aren’t firmly held and liable to kick back. Kickback is even more likely to occur if the machine doesn’t have anti-kickback fingers. Sectional feed rollers are required for ‘safe’ multiple feeding, and another trick is to clamp together the parts prior to feeding, but metal clamps should be avoided for obvious reasons.

   Kickback is also more common when feeding very thin stock, less than 6 mm (1/4”) thick. If the grain is not very straight and it’s fed with the grain rising up into the cutter the piece can shatter and be kicked back. Very thin stock is often best if fed through on a false bed that hooks over the front of the machines bed. Also, the little portable planers often do this job best of all. A safety tip is to never hold a plank by the end—hold it near the end at the side, fingers and thumb top and bottom. This way, any kickback passes between the fingers and thumb, and not into the fingers or into the palm of the hand.

   What steps should be taken to completely eliminate snipe? ----This is probably the holy grail of thickness planing. I’ve never used a thickness planer that didn’t snipe at some time or another. If the machine is improperly set up this makes the matter worse, and snipe is in good part the result of leverage and moments about a point. The longer the lever the greater the mechanical advantage forcing the beginning and end of the cut upwards into the cutters until the piece is properly held by both rollers.

   Not all pieces fed into the machine are perfectly flat either, and they can spring upwards slightly when held down by only one roller causing snipe. The best bet is to allow for snipe and machine parts that are overly long and cut it off, or machine one longer part, say about 1300 mm long and cut this into 4 parts 300 mm long with 50 mm cut off each end. Supporting the part at the far end at the beginning and end of each cut helps a lot, and continuous feeding often reduces snipe too, but this usually needs a helper. Sometimes you are able to hide snipe by cutting it away to form a tenon where the tenon shoulder falls in the full thickness of the part.

   What is the purpose of the bed rollers in larger machines, and what's another name for them? ---They’re also known as anti-friction rollers, and are raised and lowered according to the nature of the material being cut. They are set directly below both the infeed roll and outfeed roller. They’re raised just a bo’hair above the bed level to reduce the friction on the board caused by downward pressure from the rollers and bars above.

   Dry hardwoods can usually be passed through with the rollers either set very low, or below the table. Wet and resinous softwoods or hardwoods tend to create more friction, and it’s sometimes necessary to raise the rollers a bit. Very high set bed rollers can exacerbate sniping problems, and if one or both rollers is slightly high on one side this can cause the piece being thicknessed to twist as it passes through the machine. Rubbing some candle wax into the thicknesser bed from time to time helps reduce friction.

   Where are both the chipbreaker and pressure bar located, and what are their purpose? --- The chipbreaker is located between the infeed roller and the cutter block. It acts like the chipbreaker on a hand plane by preventing the cut from running along the length of the timber and forming long splinters as the teeth of the cutter chisel in. As the teeth of the cutter exit, there is a particularly strong lifting force because the cutters’ angle of attack is circular. The pressure bar follows immediately after the block, and its purpose is to keep the end of the board from lifting into the cutters as the piece exits the machine. Both the chipbreaker and pressure bar are usually (but not always) spring loaded and adjustable and this ability to rise and fall accommodates slight differences in timber thickness.

   Describe a set up that could be used to flatten a board using only a thickness planer? --- It’s a lot of bother, but a base board (aka false bed) can be set up that is the width of the machines bed and long enough to fully support the piece that needs to be flattened. Fix the piece to be flattened to the board with wedges, etc., inserted to support hollow spots. Pass the lot under the machine taking light skims until there is a large enough flat on the part being worked that it can be removed from the false bed, and flipped to flatten the opposite side.

   A typical thicknesser configuration is attached. Slainte.Some stuff I've made.

   
5. 
   mfg_king | Dec 23, 2002 05:05am | #16

   Thank you. I've learned a couple of things from your post and I appreciate you going through the trouble of typing it all out and adding the picture.

   Like your website also!

6. 
   SgianDubh | Dec 23, 2002 09:35am | #17

   It was my pleasure MFG. It didn't take long and I suffer from verbal diaerhoea(sp?) anyway, ha, ha. Slainte.Some stuff I've made.

6. 
   G3ne | Dec 23, 2002 03:05am | #15

   I bought the Ridgid planer about a year ago.  I happened to be in the HD tool dep't. when a batch of refurbed tools came in, and I got the planer for $250.  I've used it extensively for lots of hardwood and softwoods and am very happy with the performance.  My only complaint is the weight ( I keep it stashed under the extension table of my tablesaw).  I've read lots of reviews of planers in the various magazines, and it seems all the major brands are quite good, so I'd go "deal" shopping.

7. 
   Mach70 | Dec 23, 2002 07:46pm | #18

   Rich,

   The Tools & Shops issue that was mentioned found all the portable planers tested gave excellent results so you may as well shop by price or color preference  :-)

   At a recent woodworking show I went with the intention of returning with a new planer.  The show price on the Makita and Delta was pretty good so I considered them along with the Dewalt.  Ridgid (HD) didn't come to play so it was out of the contest (too bad).  The Delta was not set up properly and was sniping horribly--on the leading end as well as the usual snipe at the trailing end.  FOUL--ejected from the game.  Pity Delta didn't send a decently set-up machine to the show.  I know it is capable of excellent results but it just wouldn't be right for me to reward such a lousy demo, would it?  ;-)

   That left the Makita at 420.00 for a 61# machine vs. the Dewalt at 339.00 (289 after rebate) for their 78# machine.  I mention the weight because I gave that spec serious consideration.  Ultimately I'm almost embarrased to say I decided on price & bought the Dewalt.  I had a lot of company in that decision.

   No regrets.  Shame Ridgid (HD) doesn't come to these shows--lots of potential customers walking out with smiles on their faces.

1. 
   snomaker | Dec 23, 2002 07:56pm | #19

   MACH,

   Thanks for your insight.  As my wife always says, I must be blind.  I saw that Ridgid planer in the Shops issue and completely missed the reviews!  I am glad I chose the DeWalt as many others have done.  Although I am the only one to admit it, I suspect the yellow color has been the determining factor ;-)

   Now I am on the prowl for a jointer since the Shops article said they go hand in hand.  While I am writing checks, I am also really tempted to buy the General morticing machine reviewed in the last FWW as well.

   Rich

1. 
   Mach70 | Dec 23, 2002 11:30pm | #20

   Rich,

   Many others in these pages have said good things about the Sunhill jointer. A search of the archive might be a good idea. I own the 6" model and am impressed with its quality. Sunhill opted not to participate in the FWW jointer review (I'd love to know why...) but has received good press for years. The Ridgid jointer was unknown to me last year when I was shopping. I would consider it, too, due to the good reviews (but I think I'd make the same decision).

   More info & many pics of this machine can be seen here:

   http://www.wood-workers.com/users/mwg/sunhillwords.html

   I created the site because my own search for information & detailed pictures was so frustrating. Hope it helps...