Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Dec 16, 2008 07:07am | #1

   RG ,

              Some grain can tear out when a planer is used but sanding will work great , which do you have available ? Woods like Birdseye Maple and Curly can be difficult to thickness without tear out .

             Plane the bulk off then do the final by sanding is one way .

                        dusty

               

2. 
   ring | Dec 16, 2008 08:31am | #2

   Even if you've got a great drum sander, it's not the machine for taking rough lumber to finished boards. If you're faced with some very problematic grain - burls, interlocked grain, etc. - the sander can get you out of a tight spot. But the normal procedure is plane first, then sand. If I had to quantify a typical process, I'd say that 95% of the time I plane some 3 or 4 mm off each face, then run them thru the sander and take off another 0.2 mm.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

3. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 16, 2008 09:54am | #3

   Typically, sanders are much slower than planers. Though I don't know how a sander would perform with a 40-grit belt on it...

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   (soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

4. 
   RickL | Dec 16, 2008 03:27pm | #4

   Planer for thicknessing is the way to go. Drum sanders for thicknessing is a slow, tedious, inefficient process.  For difficult grain a lunchbox planer is excellent compared to a standard planer.

1. 
   BrianDerr | Dec 17, 2008 06:36am | #11

   Why do you say a lunchbox planer can handle difficult grain easier than a floor model? I really don't see how this could be true, but I'm all ears . . .Brian

1. 
   RickL | Dec 17, 2008 03:30pm | #12

   Typically lunchbox planers have high rpm and low feed rates. Some floor model planers do have low feed rates and can handle figured woods pretty well. Insert heads give the floor models better figured wood capabilities.

   I've tuning planers in commercial shops for 25 years so I've seen pretty much all types of machines. Depends on your budget and planer needs.

1. 
   RGomez | Dec 18, 2008 12:22am | #13

   Thanks guys.  I am going to buy one tool for my tax return etc.  and I have decided it is a planer.  I am going to start pricing and see what is out there.  Sounds like I should start with Dewalt and go from there? 

   I am installing two 220 outlets in the garage this weekend which is "the shop" so I have the option to go either way (110/220).  

   I also see these combo jointer/planer machines-- are they as good or just a pain to change back and forth. I don't want to spend more than a grand so I guess these might be out of my range anyway.

    

   ralph

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 20, 2008 03:18am | #14

   Ralph,I don't know what you have for shop equipment so far, but you might consider a combination machine (tablesaw, shaper, planer, jointer, etc) if your space is limited (as in a garage). You get top quality tools in one unit. I don't own one, but from what I have heard, the change over isn't that big an issue, especially if woodworking is a hobby as opposed to a profession. The price tag will be high, but if you compare it to separate machines, it's quite reasonable. Also, you get a nice big jointer!Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

5. 
   bones | Dec 16, 2008 05:00pm | #5

   No difference only if you have Lots and lots and lots of time for the sander!  I have both, and they server two very different purposes for me.  The thickness planer is used to take two surfaces parallel to one another and the take the volume off at a pretty good rate (depends on your planer).  I have the Makita 2012 portable.  The thickness sander I use for panels and parts to sand to that final uniform thickness for panels and parts.  Its a very handy for panels and however its not going to take off large quantities of wood at a time.  I really like it when I glue up doors I can run them through (like the panels and they come out the end uniform and nice. I use the planer a heck of  a lot more.  If I could only have one of them, the planer wins hands down. 

   Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
   If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
   And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
   
1. 
   RGomez | Dec 16, 2008 06:27pm | #6

   Sounds like everybody agrees with the planer then. 

    

   Any suggestions for a beginning woodworker on a budget? 

    

   Thanks for any suggestions you can provide.

   I have a no.7 stanley jointer that I use to edge joint.

   Ralph

1. 
   bones | Dec 16, 2008 06:56pm | #7

   Hey the stanly will joint nicely just will elbow grease.  I have the LN #7 that's based on the old stanley.  Budget, you can go many ways.  You could watch E-bay and other sources to get a used one.  You don't mention your power availability.  Those old shop ones would be a great find, but all use 220v.  If you have only 110, then a bench top can be had from 250 for a 12" delta or grizzly up to a 13" for 500 from dewalt and many others, up to the larger 15-20 for around 900 or so, but you will definately be getting into the 220v areas.   I myself have the old makita 2012 that I bough back around 90 sometime.  Its so old that their designed has changed.  On mine the table raises and lowers instead of the cutter head.  The new model is the opposite.  I paid around 400 back then and its still around that price as are most of the 12 1/2 - 13" planers.  Mine has disposable blades use both sides then chuck em.  The Dewalt gets good reviews as to others (check here with a search).  I'd like to have the new grizzly 15-20 planer, but my old makita keeps plugging along so I can't justify.  Keep in mind what I said, it will only make the two surfaces parallel, so one surface needs to be flat going in.  I use to save and get one tool per year.  I had the planer (12 1/2"), 6" delta jointer (now the grizzly 12"), and table saws of varying quality.  First one was a $90 lowes special, then a shopsmith and now the full blown 10" cabinet saw.  If I had it to do over again, I'd start with a good cabinet saw, jointer, & planer.  That gets it dimensioned and flat & square.  Everything else is gravey. Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.

2. 
   art_brazee | Dec 16, 2008 08:42pm | #8

   The Dewalt planner is a good machine for the small shop. It does a nice jobs due to its two speeds. It takes up little room, has plenty of power, is wide enough for most work, and has some nice features.

6. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 16, 2008 10:06pm | #9

   I use both.. In my opinion either will do the job (with the equipment I have).

   I never take deep cuts with either (also on the jointer). I have no problem with having to do multiple passes.

   My DeWalt DW735 does a beautiful job on most of the woods I use. All hard woods.

   I find that the drum sander will require more passes and lighter ('cuts? sanding?). The drum sander WILL bog down if you try to sand to deep. Sawdust collects behind the sanding drum and 'packs up', causing the board being sanded to 'stall' or slow down in feed rate. If the feed rate changes you WILL end up with a 'crater' along the width of the board. I have added a 'dust collector' on the feed end of the drum. It helps but the dust still tends to collect behind the sanding drum with heavier 'cuts'.

   Either will cause 'snipe' (my equipment) if the board is not properly supported at it exits the 'input' feed roller. I get NO snipe on either machine IF I have a roller stand that supports the board as it exits the machine. However, the support MUST be level with the base of either machine. Level as in height AND side to side (width) of the board.

   I have been planning/sanding alot of Panga-Panga and Sapele, which I have never used before. BOTH make HUGE amounts of very fine dust.

   That dust is something!... Reminds me of volcanic ash! Just different in color...

   I only mention this because my planner and sander react differently to these woods. Not that much in 'cutting' as such, but in the wood feed rate. I have no reason for why. However, the Panga-Pange 'likes' to stall in the planer. The Sapele on the drum sander. ???

   A change in feed rate is more of a 'serious' problem on the sander than on the planner.

   Not sure if this make any sense to you but what I typed here happened to me with these woods. I was VERY happy I had both machines to 'try' and tame the wood.  AND my hand scrapers helped ALOT!

    

    

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/16/2008 2:09 pm by WillGeorge

7. 
   tinter | Dec 17, 2008 05:16am | #10

   My answer would be, that it depends on what you are making. A drum sander allows you to thickness thinner pieces of wood than a planer, shorter pieces as well. There is no snipe with my drum sander like there is with my planer. I've been making boxes as Christmas presents and havent used my planer for the last 6 weeks. I'm glad I have them both, but, for the way I work, I would buy the drum sander first. Chris