Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Oct 29, 2007 04:45am | #1

   Go to the page for the slides at the Rockler site, click the More Info link, and then the Data Sheet link under Tech Info. The data sheet explains how to install them.

   I'm not sure I understand what you mean when you say that the drawer is "fully backed," but basically, you install the slides in the cabinet first, then slide them out to attach them to the drawer.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   potomac | Oct 29, 2007 05:20am | #2

   That's the problem, these are non disconnect slides, which to their credit is stated(somewhat small) in the rockler catalog

1. 
   saschafer | Oct 29, 2007 05:29am | #3

   I understand that they don't disconnect. I don't understand why that's a problem. You attach the complete slides to the inside of the cabinet, slide the sliding portions out, then attach the drawer to those sliding portions. Yes, the sliding portions are still attached to their mating pieces, but there should be plenty of room to work with; the slides have access holes in them specifically for this reason.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   potomac | Oct 29, 2007 07:28am | #4

   Thank you and sorry for the non clarified version, the left hand side is against a wall. Yes one side I can put on quite easily, but for lateral support would prefer to put them on opposing sides, diagonally to each other like is in the pdf for this slide. I have got modifications in mind, but do you know of another large load rated slide that is a diconnect?
   Thanks

   Edited 10/29/2007 12:29 am ET by potomac

1. 
   saschafer | Oct 30, 2007 05:05am | #7

   "...the left hand side is against a wall."

   Oh, well why didn't you say so! ;)

   What you need to do is preassemble the slide to the side of the drawer, then remove the slide so that it can be installed into the case. Then, using an offset screwdriver, reattach the slide to the drawer (I'm assuming you've got an inch or so to work with).

   Go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and type "5695A1" in the search box. That type of offset screwdriver has, I believe, the lowest profile available.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   potomac | Oct 31, 2007 05:53am | #9

   Why didn't I think of that? I will wrassle with it next week or so, and if it works, I'll change my handle to geniot, thank you mucho.
   John in Potomac MT.

3. 
   oldusty | Oct 30, 2007 05:22am | #8

     O. K .  I'll take a stab at it ,

              Pre mount the drawer box to the slides and pre mount the slides to the cabinet , with the drawer box out of the cabinet with slides attached to it , simply replace it into the cabinet and find the holes already indexed from the prior mounting .

       Out side of that you can mount several pairs of lighter duty slides to each side at different heights .

           good      luck                 dusty

4. 
   potomac | Oct 31, 2007 06:02am | #10

   I'm gonna try Steve's plan first,(good excuse to buy a new tool) if it dosen't work, Your plan is next up. What kind of slides do you recommend as I seem to always get the weird jobs around these parts. Do you know of any heavy duty, disconnect slides. I have mainly used accuride and knape and voght, and really like these 500# rated slides for their beefyness but would prefer to be able to disconnect them for several reasons, thanks a lot.
   John In Potomac

2. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 29, 2007 01:58pm | #5

   See this link and select 9301 for a data PDF. I would assume that you already have this. At least all the Accuride slides I have used came with the data sheet.

   http://www.accuride.com/products/quicksearch/data_sheets.php?skey=woodworking

   Not sure but I 'think' they are full extension so you should be able to mount the entire slide to the cabinet and then attach the drawer or am I not seeing something obvious? I do that alot!.

   When I mount slides I usually make a plywood template spacer to set the whole assembly onto. Screw the slide to the wall, and then attach the drawer. I always use full extension slides.

   I like using a support template because then I do not have to worry about the spacing and keeping it level

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/29/2007 6:58 am by WillGeorge

1. 
   potomac | Oct 31, 2007 07:53am | #12

   Thanks for the reply, and yes I may be slow but at least I'm stupid. The left hand side of the cabinet is against a wall and I think Steve's idea will probably work, I appollogize for the foggy version of my obstacle.
   John

1. 
   sapwood | Oct 31, 2007 08:30am | #13

   Or you could use machine screws with the nuts on the inside of the drawer. Epoxy the screws into the slide if you can't get your offset screwdriver in or someone's itty-bitty fingers.

3. 
   colebearanimals | Oct 29, 2007 07:23pm | #6

   Hi John,

           So the cabinet is already installed but the drawer isn't. I see your problem. The only thing you can do ( short or removing the cabinet ) is to remove the drawer guides and attach them to the drawer first. Then make up a box or devise something to hold up the drawer at the correct height ( outside the cabinet ) then screw the extended guides ( inside the cabinet ) to the cabinet walls.

                                             Paul

1. 
   potomac | Oct 31, 2007 06:14am | #11

   Thanks for the tip, I am going to use that same idea on another project with deep drawers coming up. Each framed bay will get a plywood "sleeve" with
   the cab body slide already installed. The holes are framed out of 2x10's on 2' foot centers and are 40" deep, so thanks again, you saved me some cuss words in tight spaces,
   John in Potomac