I am looking for a source of steel threaded inserts that can be pressed in.
I am familiar with the type that screw in, I have those in both brass and steel.
I am working with some Baltic Birch and the threaded inserts pull up the plys, so I want a type that I can press in.
Thanks in advance.
Michael
Replies
Rockler has barbed threaded inserts that work like plastic screw anchors. They have a 1/4-20 insert that sits flush to the surface and and also 1/4-20 and 5/16-18 that have a flange that sits proud of the surface. Woodworker's Supply has what they call press in inserts. Basically, the insert at the bottom is "split" into two halves. After the insert is driven into a slightly undersized pilot hole, the machine screw that goes in forces the two halves apart into the wood. They come in 8-32, 10-32, 1/4-20, and 5/16-18. However, they are solid brass.
Edited 12/19/2003 4:59:26 AM ET by RICKY
http://www.graingers.com
It often helps to use a countersink to chamfer the edge of the hole before you screw in the threaded insert. With a chamber, the insert's threads aren't grabbing the face veneer.
Thanks everyone, I am following up on all the leads.
The brass may work I can always blacken it chemically to match gunmetal.
As for chamfering first, that doesn't work in this case because the inserts are near the edge and ALL the plys pull apart. I may try changing the production process and put the inserts in before doing any of the profile and then perhaps chamfering might work, I will try it.
I jerry rigged them by getting long threaded nuts, cutting them in half and driving them in. They worked pretty well but I would prefer something a bit more refined.
Michael
Instead of drilling to the core diameter of the threaded inserts drill for the od of the threads and add epoxy.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Mike , you are looking for T-nuts. They come in various threads and any hardware store or box store will carry them.
mike
You can get the brass split inserts from Bruss Fasteners(800-536-0009)
I've found that clamping across the wood and chamfering the hole help prevent split-out.I also put a lot of downward pressure on the insert when I'm driving it.
Hope this helps.
Rick W.
Michael,
I use a variation of Rick's suggestion: For all threaded inserts I use a "jig" which is a piece if .5" maple drilled and tapped to match the insert threads. The jig is then clamped with c clamps tightly accross the work piece then the insert is threaed in using as much pressure as your can reasonably apply. What I have found, even in hard maple, without the jig you can get some tear-out due to the aggressive threads on the inserts. Using the jig I get no tear-out whatsoever. I've used mine enought that I have had to make new jigs since they get sloppy after a lot of use. I've never tried this on ply core but I can't see why the results should not be the same. In this case however, if you can clamp on both sides, the results should be good.
Please let us know how you solved the problem.
Doug
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