Does anyone know how I should approach this? (link to picture below)
I don’t know if I need to make different sections of “post” and just try to line them all up (dowels?), or what.
I like this basic design, and want to duplicate it with wood.
http://common.csnstores.com/common/products/PT/PT0141_l.jpg
-Mettius
Replies
Mattius,
I added a second tier to a low table with similar legs. Some day I will rebuild it.
Trying to line up 3 tiers of legs might produce unsatisfying results.
I think that cutting through the shelves would be easier.
ASK
> Trying to line up 3 tiers of legs might produce unsatisfying results.
> I think that cutting through the shelves would be easier.How would I attach the shelves to the legs if I did this?-Mettius
Mettius,
Dowels through the leg?
ASK
Mettius,
This might not be the best way to handle your problem, but why couldn't you build each tier seperately (predrilling the length of your post, and drilling holes in shelves), and use threaded rod from top to bottom through each post? This would hold everything together securely but creates other problems like how to conceal the rods and nuts from the top, and how difficult it may be to through drill the posts. You may be able to build your posts out of 1 X, and eliminate the through drilling. But I might be barking up the wrong tree here. Very cool project though, good luck.
Knight
Mettius,
There are a few different approaches you can take. All have one thing in common. Each tier should have a separate post.
As mentioned before threaded rod can be used. I would put a threaded insert in the top (on the underside) and screw the rod in. I would also add a nut to lock the threaded rod in. Stack, align and add some feet with a threaded insert. You can either drill through the post or rip a dado down the length of the post. Glue a strip back into the dado, leaving enough space in the center for the threaded rod. If you intend to stain the post then cut the post larger in one direction. You can then rip a strip off the larger direction and have a near perfect match on the grain.
If drilling through the length of the post is daunting then you can just attach each tier with screws. Then add the next and so on.
The one thing you should do is stack the shelves together when you are drilling the holes for the posts. Then everything will line up. You should make a jig to hold each of the posts so all the holes will be identical. It should be put together upside down. This way all the fasteners will be hidden.
If you need a sketch I can post one for you.
Hope this helps.
Len
If the unit is got to be knock down skip this reply.
Make an upside down 'L' jig that hangs off the side of your drill press, with a vertical fence on the face, and a block clamped on the bottom to stand the post on. Once you get everything lined up you can drill both ends of each post for dowels. Use a short drill bit if you have it and it won't wander (stiffer).
Top of the bottom, and bottom of the top shelves are not through drilled for their dowels. Intermediate shelves are through drilled and get a longer dowel.
Glue and a clamp at each corner and your done.
Mettius,
Just curious, is this an A/V component rack, or for another purpose?
Knight
> Just curious, is this an A/V component rack, or for another purpose?Hello,
It will be for A/V components, Reciever (on top shelf), DVD Player, VCR, and leaving one shelf open for future expansion. :)-Mettius
Mettius,
How about dowel screws.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=374
Thanks for the responses and advice.I don't have a drill press, a router, or a dado blade, but I can rout a channel with my trusty router plane!So, I rip my leg stock in half then cut a channel for a threaded rod, I then will crosscut my leg into the sections between shelves,
then drill holes in the shelves (all 4 at once)for the rod.I need to have a threaded thing on the top and bottom of each leg section, what piece of hardware (nut like thing?) should I use?I could just hollow out enough wood to hide a regular nut which I could threadlock in place or lock washer in. Thanks!-Mettius
Edited 9/19/2006 4:20 pm ET by Mettius
Here is how I would do it:
Assuming that the posts are 2" square I would cut 1" square holes in the shelves, have a 1" x 1" post going through.
Make up 2" x 2" hollow posts out of 1/2" stock, mitered and use that over the 1" x 1" as spacers.
You can do all that with hand tools.C.
Method 1
Cut each post section seperate. Allow enough addional so that a tenion which will go through the shelf and at least 1" in. into the next post section, can be turned. Drill a matching hole on the bottom of the section.
The top shelf would be a "blind hole" with a stub tenion turned on the post.
As the posts are seperated by the shelfs minor errors will not be noticed.
Method 2
Rip your rough post material in half. Use a corebox bit !/2" or larger set the depth to 1/2 the diamater of the bit. Rout down the center of each half of the post and glue the posts back togeather. You now have a channel for a pipe or dowel, or allthread. Cut the post material to the desired length (between shelfs). When you drill you shelfs you can stack as mentioned elswhere or build a simple 2 sided jig attache it to your drill press. You will have to make 2 jigs one for the back of the shelf and one for the front curved section. It may be easier to drill the holes while the front is still square.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled