Replies

1. 
   Eef | Nov 04, 2009 08:11pm | #1

   w,
   each time i have done this it ends up looking best at about a 1/4" protrusion. this works for me regardless of the tenon size. around here there are many opportunities to view arts and crafts period furniture and most of the tenons protrude no more than that.
   eef

1. 
   Woodk | Nov 04, 2009 09:13pm | #2

   thanks E.  thats about what I was thinking.  thank for the reply.

2. 
   JohnWW | Nov 04, 2009 11:20pm | #3

   Longer than just the bevel, you want to have a bit of the tenon side visible just for a cushion for slight discrepancies in dimensions. If you aim for an exact match of the bevel to the surface it is coming through and over shoot, the bevel will end up being down below the surface of the mortised piece and you will then have a hard to correct problem.

   John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007
1. 
   Woodk | Nov 04, 2009 11:24pm | #4

   good point John.  If you undershoot it, the look would really suffer. 

   thank you.

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Nov 05, 2009 06:14pm | #5

   I do 3/8" protrution. That allows half of that to be bevel and half to be solid which I find pleasing. John W. is correct about going to short and especially if you do the bevel by hand. You can end up with all bevel and to me it just doesn't look right.

   Here's my interpretation in picture... may or may not be large enough to see clearly but I'll take a chance and post it.Sarge..

   Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia

   
1. 
   Woodk | Nov 05, 2009 06:19pm | #6

   thanks Sarge.  Nice work. 

    

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Nov 05, 2009 06:41pm | #8

   Thanks.. and if you do a through and pin it.. the same principle applies IMO. Once I have the pin cut.. I hold a scrap pieces of various lenght beside what it comes through, put the pin on it and calculate for a bevel. Sort of a required feel and visualization really.

   Here's a pinned through...Sarge..

   Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia

   
2. 
   Woodk | Nov 05, 2009 06:43pm | #9

   wow, nice Sarge.  Did you purposely stain the tenons?...they seem much darker and prominent than the surrounding oak. 

3. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Nov 05, 2009 07:18pm | #11

   Ha.. ha.. open the picture and scroll down to the pinned through tenons. I think what you are referring to are the ornamental ebong inserts at the top. Those are there for purely decoration.. they are size ebony inserts glued into mortises. True hidden mortise and tenons are on the top that attaches stretchers and are hidden.

   I do agree with Doorboy that there is no cut and dry rule with A & C style as if you do a lot of study on it.. you will find it done about every way under the sun. A & C covers an extensive amount of ground but most think of G & G.. mission.. Stickley.. etc. when they think A & C. There were hundreds.. if not thousands of designers during the A & C period that most will never view work from. So.. you come up with what pleases you visually and do "ya" own thing.

   Regards as I am headed to the shop shortly...

   Sarge..

   Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia

   Edited 11/5/2009 11:18 am ET by SARGEgrinder47

3. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 05, 2009 06:40pm | #7

   Not a direct answer to you question so ignore if you want. 

   I saw a 'sort of' mission style chest with the Tenon sticking out ... about One Inch.  Sort of a square Lincoln Log look. Strange to be sure but I liked it ALOT and then some. VERY different but still nice to look at..

   Maybe a cardboard mock-up for what is you basic cabinet and where it will be placed ?

4. 
   doorboy | Nov 05, 2009 07:00pm | #10

   I think this is a good question. It's an area where you can sort of put your own signature to it. You could bevel it to a peak. You could bevel it just slightly and leave a flat top to it. Or maybe you could 'pillow' it for a bit of a Greene and Greene look. You will also see people cut them flush with the surface.
   As far as I can tell, you can make your own rules here.
5. 
   gofigure57 | Nov 05, 2009 11:14pm | #12

   Wood ,

    Many good suggestions here , here is one more. Make the tenons a little bit long then trim after glue up and bevel with chisel or block plane after glue up.  To cut to desired  length I lay a piece of 5/16 0r 3/8ths flat stock next to tenon and trim with flush cut saw.  The ones in the pic are not beveled although  think you get the idea.

   Tom

   
1. 
   Woodk | Nov 06, 2009 05:05pm | #13

   All of you...thank you so much for taking the time to answer.  You all gave me some great ideas.  I believe I'm going with about a 3/8" protrusion. 

    

   thank you