Replies

1. 
   LeeGrinding1 | Jan 06, 2003 08:58pm | #1

   Mel, use aniline dye. It sounds like the stain you're using is either a pigment stain or a pigment and dye blend. Aniline dye is just that...dye...and colors the wood nicely. Dye will also pop that grain a lot better than pigment stain. Aniline dye comes in water soluble or alcohol soluble. The better of the two is probably the alcohol because it won't raise the grain.

   Do an internet search and you'll come up with dozens of sources if you can't get the stuff locally.

   Lee

   
   

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   Edited 1/6/2003 1:02:19 PM ET by LeeGrindinger

1. 
   mrbird90 | Jan 06, 2003 09:17pm | #2

   Hi Lee, Thanks for the info. Will try it on the next table, fortunately this one sold anyway.inspite of not having a very contrasting grain.

2. 
   k | Jan 25, 2003 01:02am | #3

   In the past I've used water based dye, yes it does raise the grain, but is a lot easier to apply and you don't have the lap marks you do with alcohol dye's.  I've used a brownish dye over the entire piece, then sanded the dye away from the surface leaving the dye in the figure of the wood and then coating with amber or blonde shellac and the piece absolutely looks stunning.  Well worth the effort.  Good luck

3. 
   Shepherd1800 | Jan 25, 2003 03:56pm | #4

   Mel,

   If you are looking for a chemical stain you might try nitric acid.  Now this stuff is dangerous and needs to be carefully handled.  Add 1 part nitric acid to 7 parts water. (Add the acid to the water, if you do it the other way, it will EXPLODE!)

   Apply the mixture to the maple, don't worry when it turns a bright yellow that will change.  I let it dry then apply heat from a torch or heat gun and the wood will start to turn a light golden brown.  The more heat the darker it gets.  When you get to the right color, it is neutralized with baking soda and water and allowed to dry.  This of course will raise the grain but this staining is deep so there is no chance of sanding through.

   This method produces a wonderful color that matches the look of old maple, just be careful and follow all safety proceedures.

   Stephen Shepherd

   http://www.ilovewood.com

4. 
   tailsorpins | Jan 25, 2003 05:48pm | #5

   The dye is the most controllable, and I used to find that the Tandy Leather stores sold the alcohol based product in quart bottles for a fraction of the cost from a finishing specialty shop.  (I once found gallons in an Okla City Tandy shop for $6., as they supplied the saddle-makers and harnessmen at the stockyards)  but I digress....

   In finishing muzzleloading rifle stocks, I would sand to 220, raise the grain, knocking off the fuzz with 4/0 wool or fresh sharp 220, then mop on the dark stain, which was quickly absorbed by the "end" grain of the curl.  Lightly go over it with 4/0, to insure it is dark enough and even all over, then go back with a yellow or buckskin until the background color is the tint you desire.  Don't believe the color of the analine dye liquid - rely on the label and test it on a piece of scrap, ...for thirty years, heck, even now, I always double check the "red" fluid in the "yellow" dye bottle, but it was always what it was supposed to be!  I eventually went to buckskin for the deeper golden color it produced.

   The heat activated nitric acid solutions, sometimes sold as "magic-maple" will continue to darked the wood, until it is pitch black, unless you neutralize them thoroughly, then neutralize them again after they seem dry.  If you are not sure, neutralize again (baking soda is way too cheap not to), as they will continue to darken the wood even after you apply the final finish coats!

   Good Luck,

   John in middle Tennessee  

1. 
   mrbird90 | Jan 25, 2003 06:30pm | #6

   Thanks for the info. I am not familiar with the store you mention so can you give me the name brand of the dye or who makes it. I will try to get it here in Ohio.